I have a 2013 MINI Cooper S and I've just installed DRLs on my mini and I'm trying to find a fuse that only provides power when the key is pushed in (on). Obviously the lights can't run 24/7 without the key in or my battery would die. I have tried every fuse 10A and under in the fuse box on the passenger side and they all have power regardless if the key is in or out. Am I doing something wrong or is there another fuse box with switched on/off fuses?

Thanks.

 

Its a 2013? I believe there is a factory setting for DRLs. Be careful checking fuses the passengers fusebox is a control module and if you are testing with a test light you could short it out(very costly mistake)

 

What do you mean by a factory setting for DRLs? I can turn the stock ones on or off from inside the car but these new ones are aftermarket so I don't think that setting does anything now.

Is there another fuse box other than the one in the engine (those are hot all the time as well)?

 

I thought you were installing them thinking that it wasn't equipped with DRLs. Yes the factory 1s can be switched on and off thru the personal settings. Unfortunately those are the only 2 components that actually carry fuses. The only thing you can safely tie into would be the cigarette lighter socket.

 

I thought the cig lighter always has power running to it?

EDIT: ok the cig lighter has power when the key is on.. Is that number 44 in the fuse box?

 

I'm pretty sure it is switched by the key. When the key is out it turns off. Plug in a cell phone charger and see?? Not sure what the fuse number is but I would try splicing into the wire under the console.

 

Sorry missed the edit. Definitely avoid splicing off the fuse

 

Much easier to just splice into the wires near (under) the cig. lighter. Just a few screws to pull up the center console. Run the wires behind the pull out panel on the left of the console, up under the knee pad, and out the factory wire grommet near the upper corner of the dash.

It's tight, but can be done very cleanly.

 

Alright everything seems to be working now. I used an add-a-circut with no problems...bad idea for the long run? I probably will end up pulling up the center and splicing directly to the wires if that's a better idea.

 

Splice it under the console as soon as possible. I have seen those add a circuits cause lots of weird electrical issues.

 

I see what you mean about weird electrical issues.... I just went to start the engine and it clicked then the whole car died...got out and closed the door and the whole car lit up again. Did that a couple times until the engine finally fired up. Weird...

 

If you're connecting to the correct fuse, the add a circuit is fine and more reliable than splicing into a wire. It's also protected twice...

 

Any idea what caused the entire car to cut out then? It was so odd -- like the door closing caused the whole thing to reset.

 

Like I said-that fuse box is a control module-its actually the gateway module for all the modules in the car. It looks for certain electrical readings for inputs and outputs. The added circuit even at the fuse changes that circuits resistance which most likely caused it. Take the add a circuit out and see if the issue goes away

 

+1. These babies are your friend. I've used them for years with 100% reliability...

http://www.posi-lock.com/

And don't worry about not having the extra fuse provided by the Add a Circuit. The relay that controls the separate, higher amperage DRL circuit is only looking for a 12v source to trip the relay. The current drawn through the spliced wire is so small as to be almost insignificant.

You can also do what I did when I performed the DRL installation, and that is to install a SPST switch in the line leading to the splice and then mount the switch in an inconspicuous location under the knee bolster. This will allow you to switch off the DRLs on those occasions where you might want to do so (e.g., approaching a toll booth, in a parade, etc.).