R56 Coolant drain plug on the engine block
#1
Coolant drain plug on the engine block
Hi all,
I'm about to change the coolant on the car for the first time, and I expected to find a drain plug on the block in addition to popping off the lower radiator hose.
The Bentley manual, nor any forum postings that I've found, does not confirm whether or not there's such a plug. If I pop off the lower radiator hose, that will only drain the coolant from the radiator. But as we all know, that's only half of what's in the entire system.
Appreciate the help. Thanks!
Brandon
I'm about to change the coolant on the car for the first time, and I expected to find a drain plug on the block in addition to popping off the lower radiator hose.
The Bentley manual, nor any forum postings that I've found, does not confirm whether or not there's such a plug. If I pop off the lower radiator hose, that will only drain the coolant from the radiator. But as we all know, that's only half of what's in the entire system.
Appreciate the help. Thanks!
Brandon
#2
You must unplug the lower radiator hose that runs parallel to the front bumper, there is no drain plug. I wish there was though.
Edited: I only just noticed you have a Base model MC so I'm unsure about whether it's the same as with the R56 S.
Edited: I only just noticed you have a Base model MC so I'm unsure about whether it's the same as with the R56 S.
Last edited by Systemlord; 07-01-2014 at 12:03 AM.
#4
I had my engine stripped down to the block last week(R56). There's no coolant plug. If you happen to have the air box off the lowest point in the coolant system is the pipe coming off the water pump under the airbox. But it's going to be a pain to get to. Your best bet may be to flush water through the block
#5
Brandon, The Bentley manual shows where the lower hose is to be separated as you have seen.
The separation was the real problem. First move aside a spring clamp and then pull the hose free from what I would call a plastic pipe nipple that joins 2 sections of hose. Had I the strength of King Kong it would have been easy. When I finally got it free, a tad over 1 gallon drained. Putting it back together was straight forward and pouring in the new coolant was routine.
The manual calls for ignition on, fan low speed and heater set to high. Several references call for a bleeder to be loosened to allow air to escape. It took a good light and patience to find the screw; however, I never did see any coolant escape to indicate that it had been bled properly.
Took it out for a test drive and used a Scangauge to watch the water temp as I was concerned that I might not have it completely filled. Apparently it was full as the temp went to 220 (as usual) and then varied from 216 to 220 as the cooling fan cycled.
Agree that this only replaces part of the total, but I am satisfied if done every 2 years.
The separation was the real problem. First move aside a spring clamp and then pull the hose free from what I would call a plastic pipe nipple that joins 2 sections of hose. Had I the strength of King Kong it would have been easy. When I finally got it free, a tad over 1 gallon drained. Putting it back together was straight forward and pouring in the new coolant was routine.
The manual calls for ignition on, fan low speed and heater set to high. Several references call for a bleeder to be loosened to allow air to escape. It took a good light and patience to find the screw; however, I never did see any coolant escape to indicate that it had been bled properly.
Took it out for a test drive and used a Scangauge to watch the water temp as I was concerned that I might not have it completely filled. Apparently it was full as the temp went to 220 (as usual) and then varied from 216 to 220 as the cooling fan cycled.
Agree that this only replaces part of the total, but I am satisfied if done every 2 years.
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