R56 Blue Smoke - Possible Blown Turbo?
#26
It is pretty difficult to remove. It seems like the PCV system is working properly. I did replace the valve cover with no change. Well, it actually seems to have gotten worse in last few days. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a turbo. It will be a good test of my mechanical abilities.
#27
I can't help with the sensor --- not enough experience.
For crankcase pressure, a quick check is to get it idling, then remove, or loosen the oil filler cap. If you have pressure, it will be difficult to remove and / or pressure will escape thru the filler hole. When idling, the PCV system should be pulling crankcase gasses into the intake manifold, creating either a slight vacuum or equilibrium to atmospheric pressure. This test might also cause idling problems while the cap is off --- don't leave it off too long. Best to find a gauge and connection method.
For crankcase pressure, a quick check is to get it idling, then remove, or loosen the oil filler cap. If you have pressure, it will be difficult to remove and / or pressure will escape thru the filler hole. When idling, the PCV system should be pulling crankcase gasses into the intake manifold, creating either a slight vacuum or equilibrium to atmospheric pressure. This test might also cause idling problems while the cap is off --- don't leave it off too long. Best to find a gauge and connection method.
#29
#30
Yeah, but this sounds like it's just a puff of blue smoke when he starts off, a classic indication of oil getting past the valve guides, not exactly a catastrophe.
It's not a burned valve, his compression readings are good.
What is the oil consumption like? If it is not bad, the car could go thousands of miles with no problems.
Dave
It's not a burned valve, his compression readings are good.
What is the oil consumption like? If it is not bad, the car could go thousands of miles with no problems.
Dave
#31
Yeah, but this sounds like it's just a puff of blue smoke when he starts off, a classic indication of oil getting past the valve guides, not exactly a catastrophe. It's not a burned valve, his compression readings are good. What is the oil consumption like? If it is not bad, the car could go thousands of miles with no problems. Dave
#32
6th Gear
iTrader: (4)
Totally unrelated, but...I had one of our 2013 Ford Interceptors, AKA Taurus SHO, blowing massive blue smoke out the tailpipes after idling for a while, then getting in and driving. I really doubted the cop's word, but then saw it for myself. Took back to the dealer for warranty....I figured bad turbo seals. Ford dealer installed a "redesigned" right side valve cover, which they claim will solve this smoking issue. Being a turbo direct-injection engine, I thought that maybe this would shed some light on the PCV system in the MINI's with the blue oil smoke problems. Plus, there is some correaltion with the re-designed valve cover supposed to fix the N14's smoking issues. Not sure just yet if Ford's fix will work, but maybe an issue with ALL direct-injected turbo engines is afoot? Dealer said that accumulated oil in the cats may take a while to "burn off". My feeling is that the cats may have been damaged permanently. We shall see. I keep a pretty keen eye not only on my own fleet of personal cars, but also on the PD cars.
#33
It's pretty bad. But I don't have a hard figure. I changed the oil probably 250 miles after I got it, and then probably drove around a 1000 miles since then. Plus I had some left over Castrol from another car in a 5 quart jug which to me is impossible to read what was added. I just kept adding a little bit then checked the level. If I had to guess, a quart every 1000 miles? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
#34
One other thing to note regarding the valve stems. With the high oil consumption (guessing on the amount) wouldn't I have seen the oil on the spark plugs? It does look my Oxygen sensor does have a fair amount of black on it based on the below picture.
A: New 02 sensor
B: Oil Fouled 02 sensor
D: Carbon Fouled O2 sensor
E: Normal wear O2 sensor
A: New 02 sensor
B: Oil Fouled 02 sensor
D: Carbon Fouled O2 sensor
E: Normal wear O2 sensor
#35
One other thing to note regarding the valve stems. With the high oil consumption (guessing on the amount) wouldn't I have seen the oil on the spark plugs? It does look my Oxygen sensor does have a fair amount of black on it based on the below picture.
A: New 02 sensor
B: Oil Fouled 02 sensor
D: Carbon Fouled O2 sensor
E: Normal wear O2 sensor
A: New 02 sensor
B: Oil Fouled 02 sensor
D: Carbon Fouled O2 sensor
E: Normal wear O2 sensor
#36
I think my valve seals are leaking now. I was going down hill for a short period of time and noticed my boost gauge (torque app) was showing 24hg all the way down. I figured that I would give it rev at the bottom to see what happens. I honestly thought it was going to do nothing. I was wrong, big cloud of blue smoke. Crap!
Why would they leak only when the car is warm and not at startup? Is this common? Can you change them with the head on like other cars? Could it still be the turbo?
Why would they leak only when the car is warm and not at startup? Is this common? Can you change them with the head on like other cars? Could it still be the turbo?
#37
#38
I think my valve seals are leaking now. I was going down hill for a short period of time and noticed my boost gauge (torque app) was showing 24hg all the way down. I figured that I would give it rev at the bottom to see what happens. I honestly thought it was going to do nothing. I was wrong, big cloud of blue smoke. Crap! Why would they leak only when the car is warm and not at startup? Is this common? Can you change them with the head on like other cars? Could it still be the turbo?
vacuum. Adding fuel and ignition with more air. Houston we have ignition.
#41
To see if the turbo bearing / seal has failed you can remove the inlet tube, and stick you finger into the turbo inlet and try to wiggle the impeller shaft, if it move very much at all it is an indication the bearing is gone, which in turn damages the seal. Turbo bearing tend to fail due to oil starvation at the bearing. (blocked metal feed line)
Another issue would be high carbon build up, and the oil return holes in the oil rings are clogged. Result no oil draining back to the oil pan.
Valve stem seals are also a possibility. To check this pull the spark plugs and you would see white crusty oil deposits on the plugs coming from the direction of the seal that is bad, or those that are bad depending on the number of bad seals.
Another issue would be high carbon build up, and the oil return holes in the oil rings are clogged. Result no oil draining back to the oil pan.
Valve stem seals are also a possibility. To check this pull the spark plugs and you would see white crusty oil deposits on the plugs coming from the direction of the seal that is bad, or those that are bad depending on the number of bad seals.
#45
When was the last carbon cleaning done ?
#47
#48
Update:
- Replaced Turbo
- Replaced DP
- Replaced both Oil Lines
- Did carbon cleaning
And I still have blue smoke...but not as much? The turbo did have shaft play compared to the JMTC JCW turbo. Maybe it's normal, not sure. At least I know it's the valve seals now.
How much harder is it to pull the head off and have some do a valve job compared to replacing the turbo? On a scale of 1 to 10.
- Replaced Turbo
- Replaced DP
- Replaced both Oil Lines
- Did carbon cleaning
And I still have blue smoke...but not as much? The turbo did have shaft play compared to the JMTC JCW turbo. Maybe it's normal, not sure. At least I know it's the valve seals now.
How much harder is it to pull the head off and have some do a valve job compared to replacing the turbo? On a scale of 1 to 10.