Sounds like you plan to do your own work. It's a knuckle-buster! Slightly easier if you pull the turbo WITH the manifold, then separate them on a bench. Exhaust gasket will need replacing, but worth it. Might also consider putting the car in the service mode, just to get a couple inches more working space --- also well worth the extra work. Hope you have a copy of the Bentley service manual.

 

You can also mess up the idling by removing the dip stick.

 

I'm kind late to the show, but it seems to me that you have worn valve stem seals.

I don't think there is anything wrong with your turbo or PCV system.

Dave

 

I had a burned valve. Sucking oil past the valve stem. Lead to the now year long build.

 

Yeah, but this sounds like it's just a puff of blue smoke when he starts off, a classic indication of oil getting past the valve guides, not exactly a catastrophe.

It's not a burned valve, his compression readings are good.

What is the oil consumption like? If it is not bad, the car could go thousands of miles with no problems.

Dave

 

Whether his are burned or not. The point I was making is what you had already pointed out, the oil was coming past the valve guide in both cases. Oil past valve when boost is not being build. Then step on it, blows the oil into the cylinder. Hence smoke. Boost up, oil can go past the guide until boost goes back down or a vacuum is created.

 

Totally unrelated, but...I had one of our 2013 Ford Interceptors, AKA Taurus SHO, blowing massive blue smoke out the tailpipes after idling for a while, then getting in and driving. I really doubted the cop's word, but then saw it for myself. Took back to the dealer for warranty....I figured bad turbo seals. Ford dealer installed a "redesigned" right side valve cover, which they claim will solve this smoking issue. Being a turbo direct-injection engine, I thought that maybe this would shed some light on the PCV system in the MINI's with the blue oil smoke problems. Plus, there is some correaltion with the re-designed valve cover supposed to fix the N14's smoking issues. Not sure just yet if Ford's fix will work, but maybe an issue with ALL direct-injected turbo engines is afoot? Dealer said that accumulated oil in the cats may take a while to "burn off". My feeling is that the cats may have been damaged permanently. We shall see. I keep a pretty keen eye not only on my own fleet of personal cars, but also on the PD cars.

 

I always assumed that if you valve stems were leaking, you blow blue smoke at start up. Plus I had oil sitting in the turbo inlet. I just assumed it was the turbo or the PCV system.

It's pretty bad. But I don't have a hard figure. I changed the oil probably 250 miles after I got it, and then probably drove around a 1000 miles since then. Plus I had some left over Castrol from another car in a 5 quart jug which to me is impossible to read what was added. I just kept adding a little bit then checked the level. If I had to guess, a quart every 1000 miles? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

One other thing to note regarding the valve stems. With the high oil consumption (guessing on the amount) wouldn't I have seen the oil on the spark plugs? It does look my Oxygen sensor does have a fair amount of black on it based on the below picture.



A: New 02 sensor
B: Oil Fouled 02 sensor
D: Carbon Fouled O2 sensor
E: Normal wear O2 sensor

 

Imagine what your catalytic converter looks like after seeing your O2 sensor! If you get a flashlight you can see some of the honeycomb structure with your O2 sensor removed and see if there's any blockage.

 

I think my valve seals are leaking now. I was going down hill for a short period of time and noticed my boost gauge (torque app) was showing 24hg all the way down. I figured that I would give it rev at the bottom to see what happens. I honestly thought it was going to do nothing. I was wrong, big cloud of blue smoke. Crap!

Why would they leak only when the car is warm and not at startup? Is this common? Can you change them with the head on like other cars? Could it still be the turbo?

 

Most of the oil is down in the sump when you first start the car, so there isn't enough oil to get sucked past he seals at start up. After driving a short time, oil is plashed all over the tops of the valves, so it can get sucked past the valve seals.

 

You created a ton of vacuum with the throttle closed. So when you gave it throttle, it burned everything it just sucked in during all that
vacuum. Adding fuel and ignition with more air. Houston we have ignition.

 

I have replaced valve seals on a old Chevy 4.3 with the heads on. I just put some compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valves up. Can you do the same on this engine?

 

How many miles are on this car ?

 

To see if the turbo bearing / seal has failed you can remove the inlet tube, and stick you finger into the turbo inlet and try to wiggle the impeller shaft, if it move very much at all it is an indication the bearing is gone, which in turn damages the seal. Turbo bearing tend to fail due to oil starvation at the bearing. (blocked metal feed line)
Another issue would be high carbon build up, and the oil return holes in the oil rings are clogged. Result no oil draining back to the oil pan.
Valve stem seals are also a possibility. To check this pull the spark plugs and you would see white crusty oil deposits on the plugs coming from the direction of the seal that is bad, or those that are bad depending on the number of bad seals.

 

95k now.

 

I have a hard time believing it's the balve seals at 95k

 

I agree, but that seems to be where its pointing. I might have two issues.

 

I understand your position. I'll give ya my experience with my car. It had 180k. Not smoking. I had a case of the screwwidits. Ended up changing the head to a ported head. Trying to be a tight wad I changed the known not smoking seals from my head to another head that was unknown. It still did not smoke. So before you start to rip into the engine. Make sure you exhaust every avenue possible and every troubleshooting test possible before making a major repair as pulling the head.

When was the last carbon cleaning done ?

 

I bought it recently. Not sure...but it will be soon.

 

Check into that before you get to far. I've got photos of a head and valves disassembled showing the build up. Have to check my profile. If there not there I'll post them.

 

Update:
- Replaced Turbo
- Replaced DP
- Replaced both Oil Lines
- Did carbon cleaning

And I still have blue smoke...but not as much? The turbo did have shaft play compared to the JMTC JCW turbo. Maybe it's normal, not sure. At least I know it's the valve seals now.

How much harder is it to pull the head off and have some do a valve job compared to replacing the turbo? On a scale of 1 to 10.

 

Turbo is easier than the head.

 

You don't have to pull the head to replace the valve seals.