jamez....got your info, yes...slammed but working on it.

67.....just contact (RXProducts@aol) and he can get you the checkvalves you need. I think they are like $12 each. Then the dirty side can you will drill and tap in another outlet that will run to the fitting just at the turbo inlet (the cleanside connects there now) and then move the cleanside up to just post MAF.

 

The system works well in any temp once the engine is up to normal operating temps. It may take a little time for the lines and contents of the can to thaw but once they do it's business as usual.

 

What size hose are you using? I believe stock is 3/4 (and this is what I use with my cans).

 

Actually we use 3/8

 

So at the start up in a cold weather , the check valve can be froze until the engine is at the normal temperature? Would it be a probleme if the check valve are frozen ? Would it build to much crank pressure?

 

Wouldn't it create more pressure by going to a smaller diameter hose?

 

Check out the overview of the N14 kit, it's pretty nice.

<br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arsg9N7vc8c" target="_blank">View on YouTube</a>

 

The crankcase pressure is relieved via the clean side separator and there is nothing to freeze there so no worries. As far as the lines freezing it won't hurt anything and once it reaches normal operating temps it's all systems go.

 

Also want to point out that only the RX system provides evacuation at both boost and non-boost operation. This is critical as anytime your not evacuating, these damaging compounds quickly accumulate in the crankcase mixing with and contaminating the engine oil.

Good answer RX on the freezing.

 

Pics of N14 adaptors:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uestion-7.html

 

A proper system will always evacuate a ton of moisture any time temps fall below 45* F, and below 32*F even more. Always drain when engine is hot, and not running. Anyone needing tech support or with questions can PM me and I'll answer and help.

 

nice youtube video...
Still trying to figure out what the OEM check valves will be doing when the RX check valves switch.
In the video it is stated that clean filtered air will flow in from the intake tube to the passenger side connection and out the dirty side on the passenger side.
The OEM flapper will not allow air to flow into the valve cover on the passenger side from the way I see the design of the OEM flapper/check valve.??
2:12 min on video... seams like you would have vacuum being pulled by the turbo at that point as well...???
So the clean side separator is allowing or wanting flow from the intake or from the valve cover ????

 

You are correct....the OEM flapper still works to ensure only foul vapors out from the passenger side barb, and the RX can will automatically switch to the strongest evacuation suction source and always evacuate out that barb. The other barb in the dirvers side corner is only used for in-boost evacuation suction now so noting is evacuating there. The cleanside is self explanatory.

The dual valves on the RX system open and close so at all times, the strongest suction is being utilized so pressure does not build and the crankcase is being evacuated at all modes of operation.

Still looking for existing supporting vendors here to offer the RX solutions. Let me know all.

 

Only true 100% positive way of stopping this issue of oil on the intake valves is stop that crankcase air from flowing through the system all together. Period. Buy a vacuum pump that's set to shut off around 6-8" of vac. Connect it to the system and your done. Never have a intake valve coking problem ever again. There's no kit that's just bolt on that I know of. You've gotta use some brain power. It's not hard tho.

 

So your saying the drivers side going to the new location on the intake tube is for when you are on boost ? So when on boost it is not filtering from the passenger valve cover ?

 

You are correct! A vacuum pump that can retain up to 14-15" of Vac ( more than that can pull oil from the wrist pins)with a adjustable vac relief valve on the cleanside (with a filter) would be the absolute best solution, but then you are not using the MAF to meter incoming air from the relief valve so tune issues arise as far as short term fuel trims.

The other issue is the size of a pump, and finding one that can last more than 5-10k miles on the street w/out having to rebuild the vanes/bearings/seals and shaft. (Tested most every brand there is and Aerospace Components has one of the best quality units around (and they sponsor our race teams) That is why this system is the next best thing as it evacuates in both boost and non-boost and always keeps crankcase pressure out, and only the cleaned vapors enter the intake air charge.

It is always evacuating (sucking) from the passenger side outlet as designed by BMW, and clean is always entering the drivers side clean circuit. The inlet for the turbo is used as suction when in-boost, and the intake manifold vacuum s used for when in no-boost. The checkvalves sense the strongest evacuation source and automatically open and close as needed so no pressure can enter from boost, only full time suction evacuating at all times.

Also, so all know, the RX brand has been "hijacked" by speedworks and they are selling cheap chinese made knockoffs that are pressed together. No welded or threaded construction. We fear these cheap imitations may come apart or at least leak without a welded or threaded construction. The only contact to the original designer/developer with the knowledge and experience you need is: RXProducts@aol.com

If the original RX Performance Products, LLC cannot resolve this the brand will be dropped due to the confusion the cheap knock-offs are creating. We will keep everyone apprised of the situation, but in the meantime can be reached at the email above for tech support, etc.

 

Hey,

thx God i found this forum.
It has been a while i am using Saikou Michi dual oil catch can. I slightly modified my setup, was wasn't always sure whether that is OK or not.. because ...

My setup looks like the following (I have the updated valve cover with the flap valve. N14 engine, JCW version).

- Dual OCC was installed after walnut blasting
- the 'dirty' outlet side from valve cover goes to the OCC inlet, OCC outlet goes to atom via a mini air filter
- the 'dirty' inlet (bottom of the engine) is plugged/blocked with OEM plastic piece



+1 is that the passenger side can is almost always empty
+1 dozens of people are using this setup in the UK and reported zero problems
- 1 i can see some oil vapor on the engine next to the valve cover
- 1 my car consumes 1liter of oil in every 3000 km...

so if i understand right, i only need to purchase two check valves, bolt one to the top of the 'dirty' side OCC and bolt the another to the turbo inlet (as it is in the videos) and route these together?

I am also thinking about the revise the engine tolerances by upgrading the internal components.

 

All this talk of buy here do this do this, not one photo of what people are talking about.
How about photos folks

 

I just watched the video on one of those websites. The factory line still goes from the corner of the valve cover to the intake. Instead of connecting directly to the valve cover its just extended so they can have a T. The line that goes from the valve cover to the intake is the line that needs to be concerned. I wouldn't care at about the out her side. Who rides around on boost everywhere they go ? The car pulls about 10-15" of vacuum while your cruising. Atleast mine does according to the gauge. And everytime i work on it and have to mess with that line it's got oil in it. I've never seen oil on the other side. Make a catch can or separator for the constant vac side that goes to the intake and that's all you'll need

 

Ask me any questions you may have.

To get any parts from the original designer and developer of the systems, email direct: RXProducts@aol.com

Tommy and speedworks are NOT in any way affiliated with the true RX Performance Products LLC. The only way your going to get accurate info and tech support is from the actual engineer that understands all of this, not a salesman.

Ask any questions any have f all is not clear as you DO want a system that provides proper evacuation and flushing at all times.

 

Best thing to keep your valve clean would be WMI. This would keep your Valve clean/Piston head Clean and give you some power. I currenly use it on my GC for performance application, but it can be used for the purpose of cleaning and cooling only.

I would still get OCC. Looking into Saikou Michi Since i had there system in every turbo car i have owned. Most of the time the PVC side is the cans that gets most of the oil. The side that goes right to the Intake manifold hardly sees any oil from my experience. I would still do dual just in case.

There system looks good, but a little expensive (guess is the EUDM Tax). I would prefer to have something with a Drain system and just drain every oil change or monitor it over a year every 2k 3k miles to see how much you get in the cans and this will help you determine how offend you need to empty the cans. In winter you get more contaminates in there due to condensation ect. The optimal location for a can is always as low as you can place it in your engine bay. here is here my OCC is in my GC. This whole setup cost $209 with shipping.

 

Why can't we just use something like this for an oil catch can?

($16 bucks shipped)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-HIGH-QUALITY-CAPACITY-BILLET-ALUMINUM-OIL-CATCH-RESERVOIR-TANK-CAN-RED-/170762746629?hash=item27c240bb05&vxp=mtr
or

($33 bucks shipped)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Polished-Chrome-Oil-Catch-Can-Tank-KIT-9mm-Breather-Air-Filter-/181710721839?hash=item2a4ecd932f&vxp=mtr
Is the breather really that important on one? Will it be ok to add this to my 2009 mini S, can it screw something up? I know usually you get what you pay for but sometimes you pay for more than what you get

 

You can't use the one with the air filter on top.
You can use which ever separator you want, it just depends on how well it actually works is the question.
Like you said you get what you pay for.

 

Ok guys I have rerouted the hoses for a cleaner and more gravity friendly way. So far no issues the system works like a charm!

 

What have you caught so far in your catch cans?