R56 Best bang for my buck power mod?
#1
06-04-2015, 06:18 PM
Best bang for my buck power mod?
My 2010 R56 MSC needs more power. It's stock other than the K&N hot air intake.
Looking for a list of mods I can obtain on a single family income with 2 toddlers. Aka, I don't have a lot of cash laying around to play with.
So list me a few power mods, estimated HP, and $$ they go for.
Looking for a list of mods I can obtain on a single family income with 2 toddlers. Aka, I don't have a lot of cash laying around to play with.
So list me a few power mods, estimated HP, and $$ they go for.
#2
06-04-2015, 06:42 PM
Drivers school.
if you have never been to one, it will help you wring every last oomph out of any car you happen to drive. It will also help you determine where your car may or may not be lacking.
The big schools are good -skip barber, bob bondurant, etc... but BMWCCA schools are really good as well. A good amount of seat time. MINI's are almost always welcome.
If you have been to a school or three, then good. For upgrades, don't forget brakes. Go fast, stop faster.
if you have never been to one, it will help you wring every last oomph out of any car you happen to drive. It will also help you determine where your car may or may not be lacking.
The big schools are good -skip barber, bob bondurant, etc... but BMWCCA schools are really good as well. A good amount of seat time. MINI's are almost always welcome.
If you have been to a school or three, then good. For upgrades, don't forget brakes. Go fast, stop faster.
#3
06-04-2015, 10:18 PM
#4
06-05-2015, 12:47 AM
Re-map for go faster in a straightline.
Michelin Pilot SuperSport tyres for ride quality, handling and generally better in every department.
Exhaust for noise and feeling like you are going faster when you are not really.
Driver training is great and helps you make use of the above, or indeed your standard car. Just depends what it is you are looking for. As said, many more options to discuss. Search away.
Michelin Pilot SuperSport tyres for ride quality, handling and generally better in every department.
Exhaust for noise and feeling like you are going faster when you are not really.
Driver training is great and helps you make use of the above, or indeed your standard car. Just depends what it is you are looking for. As said, many more options to discuss. Search away.
#5
06-05-2015, 03:32 AM
Drivers school.
if you have never been to one, it will help you wring every last oomph out of any car you happen to drive. It will also help you determine where your car may or may not be lacking.
The big schools are good -skip barber, bob bondurant, etc... but BMWCCA schools are really good as well. A good amount of seat time. MINI's are almost always welcome.
If you have been to a school or three, then good. For upgrades, don't forget brakes. Go fast, stop faster.
if you have never been to one, it will help you wring every last oomph out of any car you happen to drive. It will also help you determine where your car may or may not be lacking.
The big schools are good -skip barber, bob bondurant, etc... but BMWCCA schools are really good as well. A good amount of seat time. MINI's are almost always welcome.
If you have been to a school or three, then good. For upgrades, don't forget brakes. Go fast, stop faster.
Dodge SRT track experience.
Buck Baker NASCAR track day.
Military evasive driving school.
#6
06-05-2015, 03:36 AM
Your post didn't help me. You can say "search" function for every new post on this forum.
Last edited by damncajun; 06-05-2015 at 04:14 AM.
#7
06-05-2015, 04:15 AM
Re-map for go faster in a straightline.
Michelin Pilot SuperSport tyres for ride quality, handling and generally better in every department.
Exhaust for noise and feeling like you are going faster when you are not really.
Driver training is great and helps you make use of the above, or indeed your standard car. Just depends what it is you are looking for. As said, many more options to discuss. Search away.
Michelin Pilot SuperSport tyres for ride quality, handling and generally better in every department.
Exhaust for noise and feeling like you are going faster when you are not really.
Driver training is great and helps you make use of the above, or indeed your standard car. Just depends what it is you are looking for. As said, many more options to discuss. Search away.
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#8
06-05-2015, 05:00 AM
I have a few on mine. K&N intake, Both intercooler muffler deletes, stiffer waste gate spring, exhaust, Burger shift bushing. These are all relatively cheap and have made my car a bit more fun. What i would encourage though would be some suspension upgrades first. I wish i would have attacked this first. This car pushes horribly under acceleration.
#11
06-05-2015, 07:54 AM
For the N18 engine - the JB+ is a good idea but I wouldn't want it on the car for too long and only use it as a step to getting a remap (I'm from the UK and for some reason we think tuning boxes are evil).
A decat pipe probably gives the best bang for buck, power + exhaust noise = WIN. depends on how you feel about emissions and how your cars get tested in the USA.
A decat pipe probably gives the best bang for buck, power + exhaust noise = WIN. depends on how you feel about emissions and how your cars get tested in the USA.
#12
06-05-2015, 08:41 AM
For the N18 engine - the JB+ is a good idea but I wouldn't want it on the car for too long and only use it as a step to getting a remap (I'm from the UK and for some reason we think tuning boxes are evil).
A decat pipe probably gives the best bang for buck, power + exhaust noise = WIN. depends on how you feel about emissions and how your cars get tested in the USA.
A decat pipe probably gives the best bang for buck, power + exhaust noise = WIN. depends on how you feel about emissions and how your cars get tested in the USA.
Many states in the US use a sniffer. Decatting is not an option in those states. This might help... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_inspection_in_the_United_States
#14
06-05-2015, 08:56 AM
I use google search for NAM, the built in one is very imprecise.
https://support.google.com/websearch.../2466433?hl=en
specifically, adding site to it like this search:
R56 upgrade site: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums
And my 1st suggestion is to install a torque arm insert if you have a manual shift.
https://support.google.com/websearch.../2466433?hl=en
specifically, adding site to it like this search:
R56 upgrade site: https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums
And my 1st suggestion is to install a torque arm insert if you have a manual shift.
#15
06-05-2015, 10:36 AM
I have been looking at this same dilemma myself. I think getting a tune is your best bet by far. I am in the process of starting a stage 2 tune. I have a CAI currently and will be doing an intercooler, W/M injection kit, downpipe and high flow cat. This is expensive though and because you are on a budget, a stage one tune is probably your best bet. I have been hearing good things about Manic, which is probably who I will be going with.
Quick response, get it tuned.
Quick response, get it tuned.
#16
06-05-2015, 01:05 PM
Most power-related things are between $500 and $800. According to others, exhaust is audio improvement, but limited hp gain (my aftermarket exhaust didn't feel any faster, I sold it).
FMIC is nice for tracking a car, but doesn't actually add any HP (it maintains what you have).
Internal engine mods or turbo upgrades get really expensive.
This leaves you with a tune, which is probably the best option. My old Accessport makes a noticeable improvement in driving the car, it is worth it. If I was spending money, I would go with a tune.
If you wanted better handling, there are other options. But for HP, go with a tune.
Mike
FMIC is nice for tracking a car, but doesn't actually add any HP (it maintains what you have).
Internal engine mods or turbo upgrades get really expensive.
This leaves you with a tune, which is probably the best option. My old Accessport makes a noticeable improvement in driving the car, it is worth it. If I was spending money, I would go with a tune.
If you wanted better handling, there are other options. But for HP, go with a tune.
Mike
#17
06-05-2015, 01:48 PM
2nd Gear
if you look at the JCW and GP2, most of the extra HP is in the engine tuning. Sure they have a very slightly larger turbo and different manifold, and slightly less restrictive exhaust (still appears to be 2.25" or so though). there are plenty of people getting stock S to higher boost numbers on the factory turbos...it is all in the boost curve, timing, fuel map etc.
That being said, the hot side muffler delete hose, noise maker delete and an exhaust will make the car sound more aggressive and enjoyable. I can't own anything with stock exhaust, just the way I've always been. I drive by sound.
If you hound the classifieds or are handy with a welder, you could easily make a home brew copy of the JCW exhaust and delete the hot side muffler (2" PVC works fine). The noise maker can be deleted with a $5 rubber expanding plug from the auto parts store. BAM, that could all be done for way under $500 even using nice stuff.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3283011
http://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-r...lete-hose.html
Not sure if the VAG BOV mod can be done on a '10+, but my factory diverter valve had blown out around the plastic ring..doing the VAG BOV mod made a big seat of the pants feel in how fast the turbo spooled.
http://www.e-tuners.com/index.php?s=12&t=2
I have a 2.75" DP back exhaust on my car, mostly for sound and because i got a crazy deal on it used. However, i do feel it has a smidge less off the line, but once the turbo spools up on the top end it makes more power. Coupled with a tune, I think there would be a significant difference between stock exhaust/tune and tuned with exhaust. The factory S exhaust with 2 cats, resonator and muffler is relatively restrictive (and heavy). I'm going to experiment with leaving the 2nd car and resonator in place, and just chopping off the rear muffler to replace it with a dual resonator tip. I'll let you know if I ever get around to it.
Also, buy a ScanGauge so you can know when imminent meltdown is approaching and react accordingly. Its the cheapest way to add 4+ gauges to this cars, plus it reads and clears codes.
Its also debatable, but a quality catch can is a good idea too. Keeping the carbon buildup on the valves down will ensure you're operating at peak efficiency. Even if they don't completely eliminate the buildup, if they reduce it by half they still pay for themselves. This is one of the better threads:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uestion-4.html
also this:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3537623
Study the valve cover disassembly photos and you will start to understand how to best solve the issues of excessive PCV blowby fouling valves. Letting the valves get bad is just going to lead to things like premature valve guide seal wear and higher oil consumption in the combustion chamber too. Thus, less power. Sometimes making power just means you didn't lose it somewhere else
The reason most people think catch cans do not work is because they are only filtering half the system, and the half of the system that does less work at that.
Bang for buck handling mods?
Tires, camber plates and rear sway bar, in that order. Then replace the shocks with good ones as maintenance requires and budget allows.
That being said, the hot side muffler delete hose, noise maker delete and an exhaust will make the car sound more aggressive and enjoyable. I can't own anything with stock exhaust, just the way I've always been. I drive by sound.
If you hound the classifieds or are handy with a welder, you could easily make a home brew copy of the JCW exhaust and delete the hot side muffler (2" PVC works fine). The noise maker can be deleted with a $5 rubber expanding plug from the auto parts store. BAM, that could all be done for way under $500 even using nice stuff.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3283011
http://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-r...lete-hose.html
Not sure if the VAG BOV mod can be done on a '10+, but my factory diverter valve had blown out around the plastic ring..doing the VAG BOV mod made a big seat of the pants feel in how fast the turbo spooled.
http://www.e-tuners.com/index.php?s=12&t=2
I have a 2.75" DP back exhaust on my car, mostly for sound and because i got a crazy deal on it used. However, i do feel it has a smidge less off the line, but once the turbo spools up on the top end it makes more power. Coupled with a tune, I think there would be a significant difference between stock exhaust/tune and tuned with exhaust. The factory S exhaust with 2 cats, resonator and muffler is relatively restrictive (and heavy). I'm going to experiment with leaving the 2nd car and resonator in place, and just chopping off the rear muffler to replace it with a dual resonator tip. I'll let you know if I ever get around to it.
Also, buy a ScanGauge so you can know when imminent meltdown is approaching and react accordingly. Its the cheapest way to add 4+ gauges to this cars, plus it reads and clears codes.
Its also debatable, but a quality catch can is a good idea too. Keeping the carbon buildup on the valves down will ensure you're operating at peak efficiency. Even if they don't completely eliminate the buildup, if they reduce it by half they still pay for themselves. This is one of the better threads:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uestion-4.html
also this:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3537623
Study the valve cover disassembly photos and you will start to understand how to best solve the issues of excessive PCV blowby fouling valves. Letting the valves get bad is just going to lead to things like premature valve guide seal wear and higher oil consumption in the combustion chamber too. Thus, less power. Sometimes making power just means you didn't lose it somewhere else
The reason most people think catch cans do not work is because they are only filtering half the system, and the half of the system that does less work at that.
Bang for buck handling mods?
Tires, camber plates and rear sway bar, in that order. Then replace the shocks with good ones as maintenance requires and budget allows.
#18
06-05-2015, 04:46 PM
With 2 toddlers you won't be in this car for too long so I would suggest not dumping any $$$ into your ride with mods - kills your resale value. Get a Sprintbooster and a JB. Both are extremely easy to install AND remove and are hot items for resale when it comes minivan time. These items will give you a very enjoyable feeling with your for much less cost than hard core mods.
ISAMIN
ISAMIN
#19
06-05-2015, 07:12 PM
Bang for the buck on the Turbo MINI is hands down the ECU tune.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/perform...-cooper-s.html
Do that first then you can build mods on top of that as HP per dollar goes way up.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/perform...-cooper-s.html
Do that first then you can build mods on top of that as HP per dollar goes way up.
#21
06-05-2015, 07:16 PM
For the N18 engine - the JB+ is a good idea but I wouldn't want it on the car for too long and only use it as a step to getting a remap (I'm from the UK and for some reason we think tuning boxes are evil).
A decat pipe probably gives the best bang for buck, power + exhaust noise = WIN. depends on how you feel about emissions and how your cars get tested in the USA.
A decat pipe probably gives the best bang for buck, power + exhaust noise = WIN. depends on how you feel about emissions and how your cars get tested in the USA.
#22
06-05-2015, 07:21 PM
if you look at the JCW and GP2, most of the extra HP is in the engine tuning. Sure they have a very slightly larger turbo and different manifold, and slightly less restrictive exhaust (still appears to be 2.25" or so though). there are plenty of people getting stock S to higher boost numbers on the factory turbos...it is all in the boost curve, timing, fuel map etc.
That being said, the hot side muffler delete hose, noise maker delete and an exhaust will make the car sound more aggressive and enjoyable. I can't own anything with stock exhaust, just the way I've always been. I drive by sound.
If you hound the classifieds or are handy with a welder, you could easily make a home brew copy of the JCW exhaust and delete the hot side muffler (2" PVC works fine). The noise maker can be deleted with a $5 rubber expanding plug from the auto parts store. BAM, that could all be done for way under $500 even using nice stuff.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3283011
http://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-r...lete-hose.html
Not sure if the VAG BOV mod can be done on a '10+, but my factory diverter valve had blown out around the plastic ring..doing the VAG BOV mod made a big seat of the pants feel in how fast the turbo spooled.
http://www.e-tuners.com/index.php?s=12&t=2
I have a 2.75" DP back exhaust on my car, mostly for sound and because i got a crazy deal on it used. However, i do feel it has a smidge less off the line, but once the turbo spools up on the top end it makes more power. Coupled with a tune, I think there would be a significant difference between stock exhaust/tune and tuned with exhaust. The factory S exhaust with 2 cats, resonator and muffler is relatively restrictive (and heavy). I'm going to experiment with leaving the 2nd car and resonator in place, and just chopping off the rear muffler to replace it with a dual resonator tip. I'll let you know if I ever get around to it.
Also, buy a ScanGauge so you can know when imminent meltdown is approaching and react accordingly. Its the cheapest way to add 4+ gauges to this cars, plus it reads and clears codes.
Its also debatable, but a quality catch can is a good idea too. Keeping the carbon buildup on the valves down will ensure you're operating at peak efficiency. Even if they don't completely eliminate the buildup, if they reduce it by half they still pay for themselves. This is one of the better threads:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uestion-4.html
also this:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3537623
Study the valve cover disassembly photos and you will start to understand how to best solve the issues of excessive PCV blowby fouling valves. Letting the valves get bad is just going to lead to things like premature valve guide seal wear and higher oil consumption in the combustion chamber too. Thus, less power. Sometimes making power just means you didn't lose it somewhere else
The reason most people think catch cans do not work is because they are only filtering half the system, and the half of the system that does less work at that.
Bang for buck handling mods?
Tires, camber plates and rear sway bar, in that order. Then replace the shocks with good ones as maintenance requires and budget allows.
That being said, the hot side muffler delete hose, noise maker delete and an exhaust will make the car sound more aggressive and enjoyable. I can't own anything with stock exhaust, just the way I've always been. I drive by sound.
If you hound the classifieds or are handy with a welder, you could easily make a home brew copy of the JCW exhaust and delete the hot side muffler (2" PVC works fine). The noise maker can be deleted with a $5 rubber expanding plug from the auto parts store. BAM, that could all be done for way under $500 even using nice stuff.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3283011
http://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-r...lete-hose.html
Not sure if the VAG BOV mod can be done on a '10+, but my factory diverter valve had blown out around the plastic ring..doing the VAG BOV mod made a big seat of the pants feel in how fast the turbo spooled.
http://www.e-tuners.com/index.php?s=12&t=2
I have a 2.75" DP back exhaust on my car, mostly for sound and because i got a crazy deal on it used. However, i do feel it has a smidge less off the line, but once the turbo spools up on the top end it makes more power. Coupled with a tune, I think there would be a significant difference between stock exhaust/tune and tuned with exhaust. The factory S exhaust with 2 cats, resonator and muffler is relatively restrictive (and heavy). I'm going to experiment with leaving the 2nd car and resonator in place, and just chopping off the rear muffler to replace it with a dual resonator tip. I'll let you know if I ever get around to it.
Also, buy a ScanGauge so you can know when imminent meltdown is approaching and react accordingly. Its the cheapest way to add 4+ gauges to this cars, plus it reads and clears codes.
Its also debatable, but a quality catch can is a good idea too. Keeping the carbon buildup on the valves down will ensure you're operating at peak efficiency. Even if they don't completely eliminate the buildup, if they reduce it by half they still pay for themselves. This is one of the better threads:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...uestion-4.html
also this:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3537623
Study the valve cover disassembly photos and you will start to understand how to best solve the issues of excessive PCV blowby fouling valves. Letting the valves get bad is just going to lead to things like premature valve guide seal wear and higher oil consumption in the combustion chamber too. Thus, less power. Sometimes making power just means you didn't lose it somewhere else
The reason most people think catch cans do not work is because they are only filtering half the system, and the half of the system that does less work at that.
Bang for buck handling mods?
Tires, camber plates and rear sway bar, in that order. Then replace the shocks with good ones as maintenance requires and budget allows.
#23
06-05-2015, 07:24 PM
With 2 toddlers you won't be in this car for too long so I would suggest not dumping any $$$ into your ride with mods - kills your resale value. Get a Sprintbooster and a JB. Both are extremely easy to install AND remove and are hot items for resale when it comes minivan time. These items will give you a very enjoyable feeling with your for much less cost than hard core mods.
ISAMIN
ISAMIN
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