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R56 R56S sounds like its going to stall

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  #1  
Old 01-05-2016 | 04:46 PM
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R56S sounds like its going to stall

Okay so it only does this sometimes which i find really weird. For example if i start my car and try to turn out of a place but can't for a minute it sounds like it'll stall but then bounces back. Nothing wrong with it while i'm driving though and it typically doesn't do it once it has been driving (or at least from what i notice). The only mod that i have is the JB+ i haven't tried taking it off yet. If any of you have an idea it would be great i don't really have time to go to a dealership as i work at one and my hours are the same as when all other ones are open.
 
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Old 01-05-2016 | 11:36 PM
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I am gonna say maybe HPFP. But, I always say that. LOL. Any check engine light? If not, keep Motoring. It should eventually set a code. Mine took a bit to set. My CEL flashed for a bit, then came on solid. I had reduced power warnings, and pulled misfire and fuel pressure low codes. Also had the same symptoms when coil packs started dimming out, minus the fuel pressure codes. Wait for the codes....
 
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Old 01-06-2016 | 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by renchjeep
I am gonna say maybe HPFP. But, I always say that. LOL. Any check engine light? If not, keep Motoring. It should eventually set a code. Mine took a bit to set. My CEL flashed for a bit, then came on solid. I had reduced power warnings, and pulled misfire and fuel pressure low codes. Also had the same symptoms when coil packs started dimming out, minus the fuel pressure codes. Wait for the codes....
Mine does the same thing in damp weather only. I would get misfire codes one cylinders 1 and 3 (together ) but have recently been getting cylinder 4 (only) misfires. My guess is that it's related to an overdue carbon blasting.
 
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Old 01-06-2016 | 01:20 PM
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I'd plug in and see if any codes are present. Any other symptoms - How are your cold starts? How many miles are on your R56?
 
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2016 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
I'd plug in and see if any codes are present. Any other symptoms - How are your cold starts? How many miles are on your R56?
Not sure whether or not your question was meant for me but my cold starts are fine, damp weather is my only issue. It's thrown p0301, p0303 and p0304 inconsistentlyrics bit on several occasions. Never had and fuel codes. I do however get the dreaded intermittent p2188 (running rich) here and there. 07 MCS 6-speed, 65k miles
 
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Old 01-06-2016 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by GAT
Not sure whether or not your question was meant for me but my cold starts are fine, damp weather is my only issue. It's thrown p0301, p0303 and p0304 inconsistentlyrics bit on several occasions. Never had and fuel codes. I do however get the dreaded intermittent p2188 (running rich) here and there. 07 MCS 6-speed, 65k miles
Sorry was meant for the OP, but that works too! (just read your post).

Just about every 50,000 miles the intake valves need to be cleaned to maintain optimum engine performance. Once the build-up reaches the maximum tolerable level, the engine will begin to run rough and misfire. You may have a rough idle, poor acceleration, stalling or single to multiple cylinder misfires. If you have any of these symptoms, check for valve residue build-up. We have a DIY that shows how we were cleaning MINI valves before MINI and BMW released the walnut blaster adapter for these engines. If you don't have the tools for the walnut blasting, this method works great as well.

What to look for (from our article).

 
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2016 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
Sorry was meant for the OP, but that works too! (just read your post).

Just about every 50,000 miles the intake valves need to be cleaned to maintain optimum engine performance. Once the build-up reaches the maximum tolerable level, the engine will begin to run rough and misfire. You may have a rough idle, poor acceleration, stalling or single to multiple cylinder misfires. If you have any of these symptoms, check for valve residue build-up. We have a DIY that shows how we were cleaning MINI valves before MINI and BMW released the walnut blaster adapter for these engines. If you don't have the tools for the walnut blasting, this method works great as well.

What to look for (from our article).

Thanks bud. I actually printed out your tech article last week. I'm going to address my turbo oil line with the Detroit Tuning kit then plan on taking a stab at your version of the valve cleaning. Thanks again for providing that write-up
 
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Old 01-06-2016 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by GAT
Thanks bud. I actually printed out your tech article last week. I'm going to address my turbo oil line with the Detroit Tuning kit then plan on taking a stab at your version of the valve cleaning. Thanks again for providing that write-up
You're very welcome! Let me know how it goes and if you have any questions be sure to let me know.
 
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2016 | 06:43 AM
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Hey everyone thanks a lot for all of your answers. My car doesn't really have any problems starting up or in any other regard. It's just seeming like its going to stall very quickly while stopped. It doesn't happen all the time either. Mainly when I haven't driven it much. For example in the mornings. I'll look into the carbon buildup but my car only has 32,000 miles on it. Could that even be possible with such low milage on It? As of now I have not had any check engine lights come on and I don't know if there are any codes as I don't have equipment to check for that. I guess I could just go to auto zone.
 
  #10  
Old 01-14-2016 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com
You're very welcome! Let me know how it goes and if you have any questions be sure to let me know.
Pelican,

Just performed your version of the carbon cleaning. I took my time as this was my first time doing any "real work" on a Mini plus I was extra cautious making sure not to damage or miss anything. Disassembly alone took me 3+ hours. I had difficulty locating then accessing the 10mm bolt on the underside of the TB/manifold. I then spent approximately 8 hour in aggregate cleaning out the valves, they were pretty caked up plus I tend to have OCD with these types of projects. I uses B12 and seafoam a handful of times along with 2 different sized steel brushes, 3 different sizes tooth brushes and a cheap dental scraper for those hard to reach areas. Reassembled everything in 30-45 mins, crossed my fingers and hit the start button. After my initial fail I quickly googled the issue and read it was common to attempt startup several times after a valve cleaning. 5-10 attempts it came alive. Results were quite apparent in a great way.

Thank you again for the great writeup. The process seemed a bit intimidating but turned out to be absolutely manageable. Overall it's a very rewarding job and I especially enjoyed saving ~$500 by doing the work on my own.

So far I've had zero misfires or any other codes. The real test will be during an early morning cold start.
 
  #11  
Old 01-15-2016 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by GAT
Pelican,

Just performed your version of the carbon cleaning. I took my time as this was my first time doing any "real work" on a Mini plus I was extra cautious making sure not to damage or miss anything. Disassembly alone took me 3+ hours. I had difficulty locating then accessing the 10mm bolt on the underside of the TB/manifold. I then spent approximately 8 hour in aggregate cleaning out the valves, they were pretty caked up plus I tend to have OCD with these types of projects. I uses B12 and seafoam a handful of times along with 2 different sized steel brushes, 3 different sizes tooth brushes and a cheap dental scraper for those hard to reach areas. Reassembled everything in 30-45 mins, crossed my fingers and hit the start button. After my initial fail I quickly googled the issue and read it was common to attempt startup several times after a valve cleaning. 5-10 attempts it came alive. Results were quite apparent in a great way.

Thank you again for the great writeup. The process seemed a bit intimidating but turned out to be absolutely manageable. Overall it's a very rewarding job and I especially enjoyed saving ~$500 by doing the work on my own.

So far I've had zero misfires or any other codes. The real test will be during an early morning cold start.
You're very welcome, GAT! Very happy to hear this. Glad the article was able to help you with your first "real work" on your MINI. Also, happy to hear that the car is now running much better.
 
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