So these are the issues that I've came across and fixed.

1. Timing Tensioner (knocking).
2. Carbon build up.
3. Broken plastic made thermostat.
4. Cosmetic hood bonnet warping (chrome color).
5. Paint discoloration (clear coat peeling).
6. Last but not least - Valvebody issues around 80k (being fixed).

I just want to know what else is this with this car before I give up on it.

I expected this to last above 150k. But it doesn't look that way.

 

All comes down to maintenance work.

We've seen cars that have had 4 timing chains replaced, and we've seen cars at 150k on the stock chain.

Carbon buildup is always going to be an issue on these cars, direct injection doesn't wash the intake valves like port injection does. The most recent DME updates have been altered to help with it, but not cure it.

Yes, the thermostat is a terrible design, but there are no aftermarket fix alls for it unfortunately. You can plan to replace it at least one more time in your ownership, we've done multiple thermostats on the same car before, it's not uncommon.

The hood scoop warping is due to the turbo, there is a heat shield that helps dramatically with the scoop warping.

Paint discoloration, where are you located? There isn't much an issue with discoloration in our demographic (midwest) but if the car isn't wearing a nice coat of UV protecting wax in hotter climates it will be a problem with any car.

Valvebody issue? Transmission valve body? First I've heard of it.

 

If you don't the heat shield is a good investment to protect your scoop. The carbon clean up should be done about every 50k miles. Keep an eye on your oil level. The guides wear from lack of lubrication and running low on engine oil. This can cause timing chain rattle at start up, noise when running and worse-case scenario a jumped timing engine. Unfortunately, a lot of plstic components on these vehicles and the thermostat being one of them. They can sometimes start as a hairline crack and pool on top of the transmission. A few others: The valve cover itself can crack in a few areas requiring you to replace the whole cover (image below). There is also a known oil leak at the turbo oil feed line. Have seen more than a few VANOS issues due to the screen can get dirty which then become restricted over time on high mileage engines (image below). Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Thanks Pelican!!

I totally forgot that I did other things. Here's a few more items that was done to my car.

Valve cover (cracked PCV)
Water pump (replaced by Mini in Stevens Creek SJ- lost of boost / power) Warranty
Turbo line oil feed line (replaced by Mini) Warranty

What i'm concerned (maybe nothing to worry about). What to do to prevent this stuff or to check it.

Vanos (replacement?)
High Pressure Fuel Pump (??)
Valve (cracking? - over heat oil/?) I cleaned the carbon coking off the heads but. How do I check if my engine is OK (top down check)?.

I would like this thing to last. I didn't do any mods and frankly it's all stocked.


In response to NkFry...



Paint discoloration, where are you located? There isn't much an issue with discoloration in our demographic (midwest) but if the car isn't wearing a nice coat of UV protecting wax in hotter climates it will be a problem with any car.

I think the hood (curve) if you don't close the hood gently over the years there's some hairline cracks in the curves (it's not as a solid hood). I guess the paint starts coming off where the curves are.

Valvebody issue? Transmission valve body? First I've heard of it.

Yes Valvebody (hard shifting issues) - i'm in the middle of changing right now. See my other posts .

 

The Valve Cover that they most likely replaced with your old one is an updated version from MINI so you should be alright. I have, however, seen on a somewhat rare occasion where someone has had to replace it again.

For the VANOS, go to our website under MINI > tech info (tab at top) > R56 articles. Then scroll to the VANOS tech article under fuel injection. It has some good information about their purpose and how to clean them. Again, these are issues with higher mileage MINI's and may be something you might not run into. You can, however, clean them as a preventative measure if you wish to. From the VANOS image I posted above, the red arrow shows a partially restricted solenoid and the green arrow shows a fully restricted solenoid. If you find one with debris, remove and clean (or replace) both. Typically, we've found more debris in the intake solenoids than the exhaust.

For the carbon clean up, just be sure to do it about every 50k miles. Once the build-up reaches the maximum tolerable level, the engine will begin to run rough and misfire. You may have a rough idle, poor acceleration, stalling or single to multiple cylinder misfires.

Your HPFP can inhibit some of the same symptoms above. If you haven't replaced yours yet, you will want to be wary of it. Also, BMW just raised the price on them from $300 to anywhere from $900-$1200 for the part alone. However, we do also have a High Pressure Fuel Pump Replacement that can help you with the project so that you can save money on labor.

The oil line, if it was replaced by MINI they should have added the heat shield to the line with an extension HERE to help protect the rubber o-ring inside the line from leaking. There are, however, kits out there that seem to be a popular/more permanent solution if you do run into a leak again.

As for preventative, just be sure to keep up on the routine maintenance needs. Keep your eyes open for oil/coolant leaks. Keep fluids up to date/fresh. Same with plugs, coils, filters, etc. If you take care of your MINI it will take care of you. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

I just saw the Vanos write up @ Pelican, i'll do my best to maintain my Mini!

Thanks again Pelican, you're the best!!

 

You're very welcome and if you ever have any questions or need anything please do not hesitate to reach out to me.

 

I do have a question about the valve body. When I dropped the pan, I don't remember if the valve body was flushed / leveled with the out shell that houses the valve body (transmission shell). Because when I installed a new valve body, it's a little tilted maybe 2 degrees. Even all the bolts are bolted to spec and also no crimps in the wiring. Is that's how it's designed?

The yellow line is not even / leveled with the outer shell.

 

Other parts to keep an eye on are oil filter housing gaskets, heat exchanger gaskets, vacuum pump oring but probably best to replace the entire vacuum pump. Lower engine mount can be replaced after 50-60,000 miles. Diverter valve can develop tears in the diaphragm. Mine was still okay after 66,000 miles but I replaced it anyway. I changed the automatic transmission fluid and filter after 60,000 miles even though it's supposed to be lifetime.

 

There is technical bulletin out for certain coopers regarding the HPFP. I just had mine replaced at local mini for free.

 

BS I say,

My 2008s had 32,000 miles and had always been brought to the dealer for their super expensive service. I did everything required ...yet it still wasn't enough.

I'll add to the list the CLUTCH! Mini CLUTCH's go out at about 25k-40k. I've know 3 people including myself who have had their clutches go bad at very low mileage. Dealer quoted me $3875 to replace the clutch!!!! Before you all say i ride my clutch, I have 30+ years of manual driving experience and have never had to replace a clutch on any of my previous cars. My last being a Jeep that I bought new and put 175k miles on it.

My mini had this go wrong in its first 30k miles:

-CLUTCH
-WARPED VALVE COVER (replaced only to have the next item happen)
-BLOCKED PVC VALVE ON VALVE COVER
-OIL PAN LEAK
-BAD WATER PUMP (replaced under recall)
-CHAIN TENSIONER (replaced partially under recall and after a PITA)
-HOOD SCOOP WARPED FROM HEAT FROM TURBO (I had to replace this out of my pocket) ...had to open hood after every drive to let turbo cool off ...ridiculous