R56 Cooling System Issues After Pump and Thermo Replaced
#1
Cooling System Issues After Pump and Thermo Replaced
Guys...
I'm about to freaking lose it.![Mad](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
I am having overheating issues with my R56s. I'm going to go in order of what I've done to fix my engine's overheating issue, and the results of what was going on. I was told to replace my water pump and thermo by a mechanic who did a pressure test after replacing my clutch
1. Replaced water pump
After doing this, I was hoping all would be fixed. Nope. Poured a bunch of coolant in after replacing and half of it winds up on the floor. Whatever, took it for a short ride anyway. Took forever to get an overheating warning, but I did. Pulled over and saw my thermostat shooting out vaporized, or hot hot coolant. So I'm assuming I need a new thermo.
2. Replaced thermostat
Completely did this and didn't take much difficulty, but during this time the largest hose in the very back came undone and apparently was completely unbolted from the engine for whatever reason. After getting it connected, and the whole thing installed... I poured coolant in. The coolant did not go down in and I assumed because the thermo hadn't opened up yet. Turned on the car and took it for a drive. Got the HALF-CHECK ENGINE light before even moving and then a quick overheat light. Barely took down any of the coolant at all... Then notice minor vapor from the NEW thermo.
EDIT: OH AND THEN MY FREAKING HOOD OPENING CABLE GOT STUCK. That's still a problem, too.
The coolant was vaporizing from the thermo slightly. The person helping me noticed small bubbles at the top of the coolant reservoir and told me it might be a head gasket.
The next step I'm going to take is to bleed the coolant system.
What should I do?
I'm about to freaking lose it.
![Mad](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
I am having overheating issues with my R56s. I'm going to go in order of what I've done to fix my engine's overheating issue, and the results of what was going on. I was told to replace my water pump and thermo by a mechanic who did a pressure test after replacing my clutch
1. Replaced water pump
After doing this, I was hoping all would be fixed. Nope. Poured a bunch of coolant in after replacing and half of it winds up on the floor. Whatever, took it for a short ride anyway. Took forever to get an overheating warning, but I did. Pulled over and saw my thermostat shooting out vaporized, or hot hot coolant. So I'm assuming I need a new thermo.
2. Replaced thermostat
Completely did this and didn't take much difficulty, but during this time the largest hose in the very back came undone and apparently was completely unbolted from the engine for whatever reason. After getting it connected, and the whole thing installed... I poured coolant in. The coolant did not go down in and I assumed because the thermo hadn't opened up yet. Turned on the car and took it for a drive. Got the HALF-CHECK ENGINE light before even moving and then a quick overheat light. Barely took down any of the coolant at all... Then notice minor vapor from the NEW thermo.
EDIT: OH AND THEN MY FREAKING HOOD OPENING CABLE GOT STUCK. That's still a problem, too.
The coolant was vaporizing from the thermo slightly. The person helping me noticed small bubbles at the top of the coolant reservoir and told me it might be a head gasket.
The next step I'm going to take is to bleed the coolant system.
What should I do?
#3
If you are very low on coolant, there is no coolant to reach the temperature sender and so quite likely you will not get an overheat warning at all until it is way too late.
#4
I am going through thermostat and water pump replacement, I already did the thermostat and still have problem, but i think I found my issue, faulty water pump friction wheel.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-issue.html
Not sure what you mean by coolant vaporizing from thermostat? It can only escape via bleed screw if you had it open?
Make sure you properly bleed out air from the system, you can squeeze rad house and pump it to help burp the air out.
Here are the instructions I found and used.
Good luck.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-issue.html
Not sure what you mean by coolant vaporizing from thermostat? It can only escape via bleed screw if you had it open?
Make sure you properly bleed out air from the system, you can squeeze rad house and pump it to help burp the air out.
Here are the instructions I found and used.
- Filling and bleeding cooling system
- Before filling, turn on ignition and set heating control to maximum temperature.
- Set fan to sow setting.
- Pour in coolant slowly. - Observe filling capacities and mixture ratio.
- The cooling system is vented during filling.
- Release vent screw located on thermostat housing.
- Pour in MINI coolant through expansion tank filler neck until bubble-free coolant emerges at vent screw.
- Close vent screw. Tightening torque 2 Nm (1.4 ft-lb)
- Continue topping up coolant in expansion tank to maximum level.
- Start engine and run at idle speed.
- If the level drops, top up coolant until the level no longer drops.
- Switch off engine and if necessary top up coolant to max. level.
- Close expansion tank.
- Check cooling system for leaks
Good luck.
#5
If you replaced those components the last step you should have done is bleed the system. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Make sure to use MINI qualified blue coolant 50/50 mixed with distilled water. We have a tech article that can help you with this process if needed, HERE.
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#6
I am going through thermostat and water pump replacement, I already did the thermostat and still have problem, but i think I found my issue, faulty water pump friction wheel.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-issue.html
Not sure what you mean by coolant vaporizing from thermostat? It can only escape via bleed screw if you had it open?
Make sure you properly bleed out air from the system, you can squeeze rad house and pump it to help burp the air out.
Here are the instructions I found and used.
Good luck.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-issue.html
Not sure what you mean by coolant vaporizing from thermostat? It can only escape via bleed screw if you had it open?
Make sure you properly bleed out air from the system, you can squeeze rad house and pump it to help burp the air out.
Here are the instructions I found and used.
- Filling and bleeding cooling system
- Before filling, turn on ignition and set heating control to maximum temperature.
- Set fan to sow setting.
- Pour in coolant slowly. - Observe filling capacities and mixture ratio.
- The cooling system is vented during filling.
- Release vent screw located on thermostat housing.
- Pour in MINI coolant through expansion tank filler neck until bubble-free coolant emerges at vent screw.
- Close vent screw. Tightening torque 2 Nm (1.4 ft-lb)
- Continue topping up coolant in expansion tank to maximum level.
- Start engine and run at idle speed.
- If the level drops, top up coolant until the level no longer drops.
- Switch off engine and if necessary top up coolant to max. level.
- Close expansion tank.
- Check cooling system for leaks
Good luck.
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#7
Any update? I am still overheating after replacing everything also..
![Mad](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Are you getting hot air out of the air vents? See my thread..
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-issue.html
![Mad](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Are you getting hot air out of the air vents? See my thread..
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-issue.html
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#8
I just posted up in your other thread.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
![](https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic130940_6.gif)
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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