I have a 1012 Cooper S hardtop/hatchback. I previously owned a 2006 S and had no problems changing the oil filter, but its been relocated.
I've watched a video that shows the coolant tank can be swung up and toward the engine to allow access to the filter.
HOWEVER- when I try to do this there is not enough flex in the coolant hose to allow much movement of the tank. The hose is attached to the bottom of the tank with a plastic 90/degree elbow. I then goes only a couple of inches and there is a 'T' connector that branches to the turbo, and then the main coolant hose goes across the top of the filter and on to the engine.
The hose that branches to the turbo is too close and too stiff to allow much movement of the tank. I've tried to get it out of the way as much as possible, but this puts a lot of stress on the elbow on the bottom of the tank until coolant starts seeping from it.
Even with the tank moved as far as possible the main coolant hose still partially blocks the filter.
I don't want crack the fitting on the bottom of the tank, and I don't want to muscle the filter out, and then not be able to get the new one in!
What to do? Has anyone else run into this? It appears that the coolant hose to the turbo is somehow different from the video I've seen, and is causing this problem.

 

I have done about 4 oil changes on my wife's.
I unbolt the tank and lift it to the left side.Every time,coolant leaks out of the bottom hose.

I unscrew the filter housing and have to push the hose near the housing to the left to remove the housing.

When installing the housing I have to push the lower hose over to get the it on making sure the threading is good.

 

OK, I guess I'll grit my teeth and give it a try. I wonder if this is how its done in the BMW shop procedure? Maybe they do it from the bottom on a lift? It seems like a pretty poor design for something that needs to be done regularly. I'm surprised they didn't at least mold/route those hoses to accommodate this.

 

Yes it's a PIA. Yes you have to push the hose out of the way. It will leak antifreeze just about every time. Not fun but I don't think there is any other way.

 

I played it safe by going under the car after loosening the filter; much easier and more access than to worry about causing future coolant leaks.

 

I stopped work back when I started this thread. Planning to go at it again tomorrow. I may put it up on stands and look at it from underneath just to see if that looks easier. I've looked at two videos that show the coolant tank being moved easily up and over toward the center of the car, with the tank resting out of the way.
(Here's one: )
I can't do that, I don't have nearly the slack/flexibility from the coolant hose under the tank. The 'T' in the hose and the section that goes to the turbo keeps it from moving much and puts a lot of stress on that bottom elbow fitting when I try. It can be raised up a bit next to the turbo inlet, enough to get my hand under it, but no way does it lift up enough to lay out of the way.
Anyway, I'll check it from underneath tomorrow and decide which way to go.

 

If I was doing it I'd pump out the overflow tank and disconnect the tank at those clamps. Then again paying the dealer $70 for a change, car wash and some espresso is a good deal for me.

 

I guess it might be worth checking. I know they don't pay retail for oil & filter. Still $14 for the filter + $45 for synthetic oil, then their labor rate is probably abour $80/hr.
I was thinking it'd be north of $120 - but it is a PITA, so I may check it out.

Although... it kind of rubs me wrong that they've designed this so poorly (intentionally?) that I have to go to the dealer for an oil change.

 

I do my own oil and filter changes, and it's never pretty. Warm up engine. Shut engine off, of course! Get the coolant tank unbolted, tie it up to the open hood with bungee cords or a few zip-ties. Sometimes coolant leaks from the 90 at the bottom of the coolant tank. I keep waiting for it to just break off, but that hasn't happened so far. Safely jack up front of car, place safely on jackstands. Place drain pan to catch most of the oil. LOL. Remove oil pan drain plug. Then, topside, I use a 27mm (IIRC) socket on a long extension and a ratchet to break the oil filter cap loose. Next, I subject my hands to all kinds of torture, twisting the cap off by hand and working the cap and filter out of the too-small access area. Old nasty oil pretty much goes everywhere. Remove old filter from cap, clean filter cap as much as possible inside and out. Wipe old oil from aluminum engine oil filter housing as much as possible. Make sure nothing has fallen into there! In with the filter cap, with new (oiled) o-ring and new filter attached. Twist on by hand as far as possible. Torque to proper value using the same tools used to remove. Guess at the torque. Remember, the cap is plastic! Don't get too carried away! Then, clean off old oil mess with about 3 cans of brake cleaner, from the top down to the bottom, and use the good stuff, CRC in the red spray can. Your oil pan should have been draining this entire time.....right? Replace the crush washer on the drain plug, and, of course, tighten to torque spec. Fill with 4.5 quarts or so of oil of choice. I use MINI Genuine filters, and Mobil 1 0w40 European Formula. It's never easy, nor pretty, but every 5k for me.

Just saw the video. Pretty accurate. But, on jackstands, MUCH easier!

 

After doing it a few times,you know what to expect.
I think trying to do it from underneath would be more difficult.

There just is not a lot of room in there.

 

MINI techs change the filter from the top, it's the quickest way. If you pull the expansion tank too far the elbow will leak and you will have to take the hose off and reseat it. Don't loose the "C" clip that holds it on because MINI/BMW only sell them with the hose.

 

I plan on draining the coolant next time around. http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-u...ump-66418.html

 

All done! - OK, Here's my experience for anyone, like myself, who has a coolant hose configuration that restricts movement of the coolant tank.

I removed the 10mm bolt and rotated the coolant tank loose, but only moved it enough to get the 27mm socket on the filter canister. I loosened the canister until it was finger tight, and a little 'wiggley,' and left it that way about 15 min. I learned on my '06 that this allows air into the canister, so most of the oil in there can drain down into the engine.

Then, with the driver's side up on a jack stand, I went under the car, reached up and removed the canister. (No problem.) As it came loose, I held it with the closed end (the end with the 27mm 'nut') down, so any remaining oil stayed in the canister, and lowered it out of the car. I don't think I got a drop on me doing it this way.

After replacing the O-ring and filter, it wasn't too hard to get the canister back up and started. I screwed it in with my fingers until it got too tight. Then went 'top-side' and maneuvered the 27mm socket past the coolant tank and onto canister to tighten it completely. Then I remounted the coolant tank.

This method minimized the stress in that coolant tank lower elbow. It wasn't hard to reach the canister from beneath the car, and I didn't have to wrestle with the coolant tank or hoses. Then, coming up from the bottom, the hose that runs past the canister just got pushed out of the way without my even having to notice it.

I did, however, make a pretty good mess simply draining the oil. I didn't suspect that, once the steady stream of oil into my oil catch container slowed to a trickle, that trickle would spread itself along the whole rear edge of the oil pan and create a drip line the length of the pan. I must have had at least 1/2 quart of oil that missed the catch pan before I noticed this.

I also discovered that, if you have enough extension length on that 27mm socket, you don't need a u-joint knuckle. Its also easier getting the socket seated on the canister nut if its not flopping around on the knuckle joint. Using three 6in. extensions I was able to get a pretty straight shot at the canister nut. The 27mm socket seemed to seat completely.

Anyway its done, and I don't have any reservations about doing it again next time.

 

I was readinng and see the complaints about the 90 degree elbow. Does anyone think over time this could go bad? I saw mine leaking today and was wondering if this is why I am smelling antifreeze on a cold start day, but after reading it doesnt seem like that could be the case. Thoughts?

BTW you can get 5qt from walmart/amazon for $25. I use Mobil 1 myself

 

Talked about here : I had mine leaks and replaced it some, have gotten away with the gasket, mine the insert was worn.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...onnection.html

 

I was readinng and see the complaints about the 90 degree elbow. Does anyone think over time this could go bad? I saw mine leaking today and was wondering if this is why I am smelling antifreeze on a cold start day, but after reading it doesnt seem like that could be the case. Thoughts?

ever replaced your thermostat housing? Same neighborhood and a COMMON failure point on early GEN2. A slow leak cooks off pretty fast when hot .. but a puddle can form while parked that takes a lil while to cook off from cold start, long enuf for the smell to reach you. Look for coolant residue around the housing ..... on the block above the filter . . .

 

Thanks ECS

 

I have not. I can take a look at it and see if I notice anything. Where exactly is it located?

Thanks

 

Welcome, yea its due to moving and bending it out of the way to change the oil filter all the time.