R56 Advice: 2010 Mini Cooper S purchase
#1
Advice: 2010 Mini Cooper S purchase
After owning an R53 MCS I've decided to revisit the Let's Motor world and have found a 2010 MCS with 54K miles and all options including automatic transmission for near $10K here in the Bay area. Second owner, extended warranty with all servicing done at dealers. The service history shows no major problems other than a battery issue which resulted in a new one. Tires/brakes done less than a year ago, leather, heated seats, etc.
Spoke with the dealer service dept and they state the car's history shows it to be reliable. That said, what if any issues should I be looking for? Also curious what performance mods make the most sense. I ask since I did the one ball exhaust mod, cold air intake and super charger pulleys which made a big difference.
Thanks.
Jonathan
Spoke with the dealer service dept and they state the car's history shows it to be reliable. That said, what if any issues should I be looking for? Also curious what performance mods make the most sense. I ask since I did the one ball exhaust mod, cold air intake and super charger pulleys which made a big difference.
Thanks.
Jonathan
#2
I also have 2010 S automatic (@45,000 miles) with all the options you mentioned and some. It has been very reliable just like my ex 2004 R53 S. I have from the start doing oil changes every 7,000 miles in addition to the routine maintenance (brake pads, new battery, brake fluid flush, etc). I have zero issues. Oil changes at low intervals is the key. The only mod I have done is get rid of RF's very early on and replaced with Conti Extreme DWS 215-45-17 tires. Life is good.
#4
Interesting.. two very opposite responses. This this car has the maintenance warranty oil services were done as scheduled, which is not the way I would do it. The RF tires have already been replaced with Hankook Ventus V12's which I ran on my Porsche also.
@Mini_Wisonsin: The research I've done shows that the earlier R56 like your 2008 were far more problematic than those from 10-13. I see you went with the F56 though I much prefer the Bulldog hood of the R series even though the F is BMW throughout.
@Mini_Wisonsin: The research I've done shows that the earlier R56 like your 2008 were far more problematic than those from 10-13. I see you went with the F56 though I much prefer the Bulldog hood of the R series even though the F is BMW throughout.
#5
#6
With the N14, there is the issue of the timing chain, carbon buildup, and oil consumption. My 2008 MINI Cooper S was an oil burner, I would not wish that problem on anyone. I'm talking about one quart every 1,000 miles.
Good luck to you.
#7
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#8
You're correct...there is no question that the 2007 MINI Cooper S was the worst year and things improved in the later years of the N14 engine. The N14 was discontinued after 2010, except for the JCW which continued to use it thru 2012.
With the N14, there is the issue of the timing chain, carbon buildup, and oil consumption. My 2008 MINI Cooper S was an oil burner, I would not wish that problem on anyone. I'm talking about one quart every 1,000 miles.
Good luck to you.
With the N14, there is the issue of the timing chain, carbon buildup, and oil consumption. My 2008 MINI Cooper S was an oil burner, I would not wish that problem on anyone. I'm talking about one quart every 1,000 miles.
Good luck to you.
PS I just had the owner check and send me a photo of the dipstick which showed the oil at the top line with 7K miles since the last service. Obviously this car isn't suffering the problem you mention.
Last edited by jontalk; 02-17-2016 at 06:55 PM.
#9
I have a 2010 Clubman S with the N14 engine and 6 speed manual tranny. It currently has 109k and we bought it from a 1 owner with 72k in October 2014. Here is a list of the items I have completed since purchase.
1)Replaced thermostat housing. $145 The housing is plastic and prone to cracking and leaking coolant onto the top of the transmission.
2)Replaced the gaskets on the oil filter housing and the heat exchanger. $47 The gasket will eventually get hard and leak oil on the front of the engine.
3)I just replaced the valve cover due to the CCV diagram falling out. Due to time constraints I paid $416 at the dealer, but an OEM cover can be found on-line from one of the forum sponsors for $358. The CCV is a common failure with higher mileage and will cause excessive oil consumption. Since replacing the cover I have noticed virtually no oil consumption.
4)Replaced the right axle shaft seal on the transmission. $24
If you search through the forums 1, 2 and 3 are common with the N14 engine. You will also find issues with the timing chain and guide mainly on the first model years of the N14. Mine has the original timing chain and guide and when I replaced the valve cover I did an inspection of the chain and guide and they were good. I haven't found anyone post issues with the timing chain and guide on the 2010's. Another gasket than can leak is the vacuum pump where it mounts to the left side on the head and is driven by the cam. If the engine has not had a good history of oil changes sludge can block the lubricating orifices of the pump causing it to fail breaking the end of the cam which has catastrophic results for the engine. The turbo oil return line can leak oil at the fitting on the turbo. I have not had this leak.
I have spent $632 since purchase on replacement parts for our 2010 N14 with 109k which I have no issues for a vehicle with this mileage. I would take ours on a 1000 mile trip tomorrow with no worries.
1)Replaced thermostat housing. $145 The housing is plastic and prone to cracking and leaking coolant onto the top of the transmission.
2)Replaced the gaskets on the oil filter housing and the heat exchanger. $47 The gasket will eventually get hard and leak oil on the front of the engine.
3)I just replaced the valve cover due to the CCV diagram falling out. Due to time constraints I paid $416 at the dealer, but an OEM cover can be found on-line from one of the forum sponsors for $358. The CCV is a common failure with higher mileage and will cause excessive oil consumption. Since replacing the cover I have noticed virtually no oil consumption.
4)Replaced the right axle shaft seal on the transmission. $24
If you search through the forums 1, 2 and 3 are common with the N14 engine. You will also find issues with the timing chain and guide mainly on the first model years of the N14. Mine has the original timing chain and guide and when I replaced the valve cover I did an inspection of the chain and guide and they were good. I haven't found anyone post issues with the timing chain and guide on the 2010's. Another gasket than can leak is the vacuum pump where it mounts to the left side on the head and is driven by the cam. If the engine has not had a good history of oil changes sludge can block the lubricating orifices of the pump causing it to fail breaking the end of the cam which has catastrophic results for the engine. The turbo oil return line can leak oil at the fitting on the turbo. I have not had this leak.
I have spent $632 since purchase on replacement parts for our 2010 N14 with 109k which I have no issues for a vehicle with this mileage. I would take ours on a 1000 mile trip tomorrow with no worries.
#10
#11
I have a 2010 Clubman S with the N14 engine and 6 speed manual tranny. It currently has 109k and we bought it from a 1 owner with 72k in October 2014. Here is a list of the items I have completed since purchase.
1)Replaced thermostat housing. $145 The housing is plastic and prone to cracking and leaking coolant onto the top of the transmission.
2)Replaced the gaskets on the oil filter housing and the heat exchanger. $47 The gasket will eventually get hard and leak oil on the front of the engine.
3)I just replaced the valve cover due to the CCV diagram falling out. Due to time constraints I paid $416 at the dealer, but an OEM cover can be found on-line from one of the forum sponsors for $358. The CCV is a common failure with higher mileage and will cause excessive oil consumption. Since replacing the cover I have noticed virtually no oil consumption.
4)Replaced the right axle shaft seal on the transmission. $24
If you search through the forums 1, 2 and 3 are common with the N14 engine. You will also find issues with the timing chain and guide mainly on the first model years of the N14. Mine has the original timing chain and guide and when I replaced the valve cover I did an inspection of the chain and guide and they were good. I haven't found anyone post issues with the timing chain and guide on the 2010's. Another gasket than can leak is the vacuum pump where it mounts to the left side on the head and is driven by the cam. If the engine has not had a good history of oil changes sludge can block the lubricating orifices of the pump causing it to fail breaking the end of the cam which has catastrophic results for the engine. The turbo oil return line can leak oil at the fitting on the turbo. I have not had this leak.
I have spent $632 since purchase on replacement parts for our 2010 N14 with 109k which I have no issues for a vehicle with this mileage. I would take ours on a 1000 mile trip tomorrow with no worries.
1)Replaced thermostat housing. $145 The housing is plastic and prone to cracking and leaking coolant onto the top of the transmission.
2)Replaced the gaskets on the oil filter housing and the heat exchanger. $47 The gasket will eventually get hard and leak oil on the front of the engine.
3)I just replaced the valve cover due to the CCV diagram falling out. Due to time constraints I paid $416 at the dealer, but an OEM cover can be found on-line from one of the forum sponsors for $358. The CCV is a common failure with higher mileage and will cause excessive oil consumption. Since replacing the cover I have noticed virtually no oil consumption.
4)Replaced the right axle shaft seal on the transmission. $24
If you search through the forums 1, 2 and 3 are common with the N14 engine. You will also find issues with the timing chain and guide mainly on the first model years of the N14. Mine has the original timing chain and guide and when I replaced the valve cover I did an inspection of the chain and guide and they were good. I haven't found anyone post issues with the timing chain and guide on the 2010's. Another gasket than can leak is the vacuum pump where it mounts to the left side on the head and is driven by the cam. If the engine has not had a good history of oil changes sludge can block the lubricating orifices of the pump causing it to fail breaking the end of the cam which has catastrophic results for the engine. The turbo oil return line can leak oil at the fitting on the turbo. I have not had this leak.
I have spent $632 since purchase on replacement parts for our 2010 N14 with 109k which I have no issues for a vehicle with this mileage. I would take ours on a 1000 mile trip tomorrow with no worries.
#12
#13
Yes I had planned to have an independent shop do a full inspection which they say takes nearly 2 hours. Beyond this I get the sense that most of those that have responded feel the N14 engine or for the matter, the R56 is a troublesome machine and should be avoided. That said, what's the GOOD news??? Surely everyone is part of this forum since they love the Go Kart/Let's Motor experience correct?
#14
Yes I had planned to have an independent shop do a full inspection which they say takes nearly 2 hours. Beyond this I get the sense that most of those that have responded feel the N14 engine or for the matter, the R56 is a troublesome machine and should be avoided. That said, what's the GOOD news??? Surely everyone is part of this forum since they love the Go Kart/Let's Motor experience correct?
#16
#17
The owner just sent me the print out of all services since the car has the extended maintenance program. What I find odd is the strange oil service intervals: 26.8K, 33.1K, 42.5K and again at 46.1K. The car currently has 54.3K and they say they won't do the oil for another 4K miles which I don't get.
Also none of the issues @grussel have been done. Could it be that like many cars some escape the problems that forum members have? When I think about other forums (tech, etc) what we see mostly are the PROBLEMS people have rather than the good stuff. This plus the fact that forum members represent a VERY small percentage of total ownership.. Does that make sense to y'all?
Also none of the issues @grussel have been done. Could it be that like many cars some escape the problems that forum members have? When I think about other forums (tech, etc) what we see mostly are the PROBLEMS people have rather than the good stuff. This plus the fact that forum members represent a VERY small percentage of total ownership.. Does that make sense to y'all?
#18
The car you're looking at is right at the mileage where typically the timing chain tensioner gets lazy causing the timing chain to stetch and when that happens you're looking at all new timing chain components or a new engine if the timing chain jumps off the camshaft gear. It's cost BMW/Mini $30 million dollars and this is only one of many Achilles Heel designs that can cause your engine to eat itself, if you buy you take a huge risk and the odds aren't in your favor!
The oil change intervals are down right scary considering most burn through 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles and that's if you're lucky! There are so many defective parts on the N14 engine it defies belief. Why would anybody sell a reliable car at 54,000 miles, take a while and think about that. An inspection can't tell you anything about the internals of the engine or parts about ready to fail.
http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-s...on-settlement/
http://www.motoringfile.com/section/recallscampaigns/
The oil change intervals are down right scary considering most burn through 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles and that's if you're lucky! There are so many defective parts on the N14 engine it defies belief. Why would anybody sell a reliable car at 54,000 miles, take a while and think about that. An inspection can't tell you anything about the internals of the engine or parts about ready to fail.
http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-s...on-settlement/
http://www.motoringfile.com/section/recallscampaigns/
Last edited by Systemlord; 02-18-2016 at 01:35 PM.
#19
The car you're looking at is right at the mileage where typically the timing chain tensioner gets lazy causing the timing chain to stetch and when that happens you're looking at all new timing chain components or a new engine if the timing chain jumps off the camshaft gear. It's cost BMW/Mini $30 million dollars and this is only one of many Achilles Heel designs that can cause your engine to eat itself, if you buy you take a huge risk and the odds aren't in your favor!
The oil change intervals are down right scary considering most burn through 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles and that's if you're lucky! There are so many defective parts on the N14 engine it defies belief. Why would anybody sell a reliable car at 54,000 miles, take a while and think about that. An inspection can't tell you anything about the internals of the engine or parts about ready to fail.
http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-s...on-settlement/
http://www.motoringfile.com/section/recallscampaigns/
The oil change intervals are down right scary considering most burn through 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles and that's if you're lucky! There are so many defective parts on the N14 engine it defies belief. Why would anybody sell a reliable car at 54,000 miles, take a while and think about that. An inspection can't tell you anything about the internals of the engine or parts about ready to fail.
http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-s...on-settlement/
http://www.motoringfile.com/section/recallscampaigns/
With the doom and gloom you and a couple of others say here I'm beginning to think its best to steer clear of ANY Mini.. would you agree?
Re: Current owner.. She's a housewife with kids and the Mini is car #4. She's clueless about mechanical stuff and like most goes by what the dealer says. They're selling the car since they have 3 others and are tired of playing car jockey which I can understand. That said if what you say is true about the mileage/problem equation it may be best to steer clear even though the history of the car shows its been pretty solid other than a turbo heat shield, water pump and AC hoses.
Last edited by jontalk; 02-18-2016 at 01:45 PM.
#20
I do hope you find the perfect MINI. I am very happy with my 2nd MINI. I went with the non S this time.
What I like about my 2015 MINI Cooper Hardtop - 2 Door, 1.5L I3.
1. I bought it as a MINI Next CPO with 5,000 miles on the odometer and the MINI dealer extended the warranty to 4 years / 75,000 miles.
2. There is no dipstick...which is a joy as compared to the hassle of reading the oil level on my 2008 MINI Cooper S.
3. No run flats and I have a spare tire this time.
4. It is a lot of fun to drive.
2015 Mini Cooper
#21
@mini_wisconsin.. yes a nice car though I do feel the front end of the F56 is kind of ugly while the BMW stamps everywhere and much improved fit and finish make for a better overall car. I don't want to shell out the extra money for one though.
I've spoken to two independent garages and they both say that if an N14 engine needs the timing chain repair they send them to the dealer. They also say that the only way to inspect it is to take it apart which is many hours labor. Meanwhile I found a 2011 MCS listed today with 33K mi thought its also automatic.
When I research other brands like Subaru they have just as many problems as the Mini, LOL. Finding the right mix of fun, economy and value is always a challenge though like many things in life, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
When I had my 05 MCS I had very few problems though I got rid of it with less than 33K miles. The fit and finish on the R56 is improved but nowhere near as nice as your 2015 though.
I've spoken to two independent garages and they both say that if an N14 engine needs the timing chain repair they send them to the dealer. They also say that the only way to inspect it is to take it apart which is many hours labor. Meanwhile I found a 2011 MCS listed today with 33K mi thought its also automatic.
When I research other brands like Subaru they have just as many problems as the Mini, LOL. Finding the right mix of fun, economy and value is always a challenge though like many things in life, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
When I had my 05 MCS I had very few problems though I got rid of it with less than 33K miles. The fit and finish on the R56 is improved but nowhere near as nice as your 2015 though.
#22
What I find interesting is the feedback on this thread: http://goo.gl/5wxQg0 As I look through the FOUR pages of responses it appears the timing chain issue isn't nearly as prevalent as both the thermostat and coolant tank housing and HPFP. Am going to take a look at a silver 2011 MCS with 32K miles that needs tires and some TLC and had non-mechanical body work done twice due to city driving. Compared to the potential repair of the Intermediate Main Bearing on my Porsche Boxster ($2K+) even the timing chain tensinoer issue is far less in comparison though there's no comparing fit/finish of a Porsche with a Mini. If my Porsche was a 911 it would be a different story but Boxters continue to depreciate due to the large numbers manufactured
#23
What I find interesting is the feedback on this thread: http://goo.gl/5wxQg0 As I look through the FOUR pages of responses it appears the timing chain issue isn't nearly as prevalent as both the thermostat and coolant tank housing and HPFP. Am going to take a look at a silver 2011 MCS with 32K miles that needs tires and some TLC and had non-mechanical body work done twice due to city driving.
I'm glad to hear that you're looking at a 2011 MINI Cooper S with the N18 engine. Good luck.
PS. If you're serious about the car... please share a picture of the car.
#24
If you were an owner before the campaign, the timing chain was a big problem, especially when the MINI dealer wanted $2k to fix it. It took MINI a few years before they admitted there was a problem.
I'm glad to hear that you're looking at a 2011 MINI Cooper S with the N18 engine. Good luck.
PS. If you're serious about the car... please share a picture of the car.
I'm glad to hear that you're looking at a 2011 MINI Cooper S with the N18 engine. Good luck.
PS. If you're serious about the car... please share a picture of the car.
#25
Actually the 2010 while higher mileage is cleaner than the 2011 which has been in two minor accidents, needs tires and has expired tags too. However since you say the N18 engine won't suffer from the problems the N14 does I may pursue it instead of the other. Some TLC and detailing is far less expensive than what you mention with the chain tensioner. It also has the extended maintenance which is nice. Thanks
What do you mean by extended maintenance...a warranty?
I didn't say the N18 will not have problems. What I will say is that you should not have the carbon buildup or timing chain probs that its predecessor had.