R56 HPFP beginning to die???
#26
Before removing the pump and with the issue present, I could not smell gas around rear seats. Now I can but because there is some gas cleaned after removing and reinstalling the pump.
#27
ok, then its not coming back out the seal, but might be going in and then loosing pressure on the line.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#28
I could read my system fuel pressure in my Base model with the tool you are offering at the ECS site?
#29
I could read my system fuel pressure in my Base model with any tool that you could be offering at the PelicanPart site?
#30
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
#31
It will show the fuel rate when running, its under the engine section.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#32
My pleasure. A BMW/MINI scan tool should be able to view the DME, then fuel pump/pressure. We use AutoEnginuity. I know a lot of MINI owners use the Carly App, but not sure that can read fueling specific.
1) "Locate the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail and remove the black plastic cover (green arrow), just like a bicycle tire."
Yes, I'm seeing it.
2) "Use a small screwdriver to press the pin in the center of the Schrader valve to relieve any remaining pressure (green arrow). It's a good idea to have plenty of rags surrounding the screwdriver to absorb any fuel that squirts out."
No, never done. No the first time, no the second time.
This steps are not present in the R56 pump replacement guide.
Could this omission cause a problem?
May be I need to disconnect the battery, and take step 1 and 2 and close the Schrader valve to avoid any fuel pressure problem or air in the fuel system?
Thank you!
#33
I have good and bad news.
The bad news is that today the problem is worse.
When I just inserted the key, the service symbol (yelow car) immediately appeared in my tach.
When I tried to start the car, the car had the same behavior as when a HPFP is failing (I have not HPFP) and the car could not reach the 1200+ RPM to warm the engine. Just idle in 700 RPM like when the engine is hot. Driving to work was without any problem.
In addition, last night I cleaned the entire interior of the car and this morning I can smell fuel. That means that the fuel pump was not reinstalled properly the last time (there is not seals but not closed properly as commented by NCS).
The pump is in it last days surely. I'm low in fuel (not in reserve, but low) and I'm sure that is not helping a lot.
The good news is that when I return to home, surely I have some error code stored in the car to read (I expect related with a fuel pump error).
The bad news is that today the problem is worse.
When I just inserted the key, the service symbol (yelow car) immediately appeared in my tach.
When I tried to start the car, the car had the same behavior as when a HPFP is failing (I have not HPFP) and the car could not reach the 1200+ RPM to warm the engine. Just idle in 700 RPM like when the engine is hot. Driving to work was without any problem.
In addition, last night I cleaned the entire interior of the car and this morning I can smell fuel. That means that the fuel pump was not reinstalled properly the last time (there is not seals but not closed properly as commented by NCS).
The pump is in it last days surely. I'm low in fuel (not in reserve, but low) and I'm sure that is not helping a lot.
The good news is that when I return to home, surely I have some error code stored in the car to read (I expect related with a fuel pump error).
#34
Let me know what comes up. Now it does sound like the fuel pump is on its way out.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#35
I was checking the fuel pump replacement guide (for R53 models, not for R56) at PelicanParts.com site I can see two steps that I did not realize any of the 2 times I've cleaned and reinstalled my fuell pump:
1) "Locate the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail and remove the black plastic cover (green arrow), just like a bicycle tire."
Yes, I'm seeing it.
2) "Use a small screwdriver to press the pin in the center of the Schrader valve to relieve any remaining pressure (green arrow). It's a good idea to have plenty of rags surrounding the screwdriver to absorb any fuel that squirts out."
No, never done. No the first time, no the second time.
This steps are not present in the R56 pump replacement guide.
Could this omission cause a problem?
May be I need to disconnect the battery, and take step 1 and 2 and close the Schrader valve to avoid any fuel pressure problem or air in the fuel system?
Thank you!
1) "Locate the Schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail and remove the black plastic cover (green arrow), just like a bicycle tire."
Yes, I'm seeing it.
2) "Use a small screwdriver to press the pin in the center of the Schrader valve to relieve any remaining pressure (green arrow). It's a good idea to have plenty of rags surrounding the screwdriver to absorb any fuel that squirts out."
No, never done. No the first time, no the second time.
This steps are not present in the R56 pump replacement guide.
Could this omission cause a problem?
May be I need to disconnect the battery, and take step 1 and 2 and close the Schrader valve to avoid any fuel pressure problem or air in the fuel system?
Thank you!
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
#36
No, this wont be related. The best thing you can do is test when the problem is present. When your engine doesn’t start you’ll want to check the basics. Check spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure, volume, quality and engine compression. Sounds like you've got some error codes that'll help trace down your issue though. Once you figure out what is missing, it will be easier to diagnose.
I will be checking for error codes today.
Since the issue is present, there is not any error code stored (checked with Rheingold). All modules and values seems to be OK.
#37
I believe it is bad, but since I can smell gas, maybe there is a couple of issues:
1) The pump was not reinstalled correctly
2) Now I'm running on low fuel level (it is not good for the pump)
And the pump, could be worst on every start every day.
I will let you know.
#38
Dears,
while ordering the correct fuel pump for my car (thanks to ECS & PelicanParts) tonight I will be trying to improve the bad fuel pump behavior.
1) I will fill the tank to run with full gas.
2) I will extract and reinstall the fuel pump from the tank
I think since the ring is not easy to turn it to remove it nor turn it to tighten (without the proper tool and only with a hammer and a screwdriver), there is not reinstalled properly. Additionally I bought grease/vaseline so that the ring will be easier to turn it while pressing the pump. I think definitely the pump is not adjusted as it should (harder).
3) I will be searching the files for my INPA software to try to read engine values on real time where trying starting up the car (actually I have not the files for my N16 engine, just for N12 and N14).
4) I will run a full check with ISTA Rheingold looking for error codes.
I will let you know friends !
while ordering the correct fuel pump for my car (thanks to ECS & PelicanParts) tonight I will be trying to improve the bad fuel pump behavior.
1) I will fill the tank to run with full gas.
2) I will extract and reinstall the fuel pump from the tank
I think since the ring is not easy to turn it to remove it nor turn it to tighten (without the proper tool and only with a hammer and a screwdriver), there is not reinstalled properly. Additionally I bought grease/vaseline so that the ring will be easier to turn it while pressing the pump. I think definitely the pump is not adjusted as it should (harder).
3) I will be searching the files for my INPA software to try to read engine values on real time where trying starting up the car (actually I have not the files for my N16 engine, just for N12 and N14).
4) I will run a full check with ISTA Rheingold looking for error codes.
I will let you know friends !
#39
Dears,
Today I learned a lesson.
For my pump model, you really need the right tool to close properly the ring over the pump or you need a second person to press the pump into the tank while you hit the ring with a screwdriver and a hammer. Adding grease to the ring helped a lot too.
Today I have reinstalled the pump with the help of a friend and I could see that the fuel pump was not 100% pressed to the bottom of the tank.
Now the ring was closed and turned correctly and the fuel pump totally pressed. No fuel/air leaks.
After that, the fuel tank has been filled.
I did the fuel pump test from INPA, without problems (pressure pump on for 10 seconds).
I have also deleted from INPA the "fuel on-off learned" by the car.
No error codes found on ISTA Rheingold (I was waiting for something related with fuel, pressure, start engine, etc).
By checking the status with the engine on I could see this 2 issues:
Massenstrom vom HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Mass flow from HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Abgleich Drosselklappenmodell (Faktor): 0.55
Balance throttle module (factor): 0.55
Any ideas?
Today I learned a lesson.
For my pump model, you really need the right tool to close properly the ring over the pump or you need a second person to press the pump into the tank while you hit the ring with a screwdriver and a hammer. Adding grease to the ring helped a lot too.
Today I have reinstalled the pump with the help of a friend and I could see that the fuel pump was not 100% pressed to the bottom of the tank.
Now the ring was closed and turned correctly and the fuel pump totally pressed. No fuel/air leaks.
After that, the fuel tank has been filled.
I did the fuel pump test from INPA, without problems (pressure pump on for 10 seconds).
I have also deleted from INPA the "fuel on-off learned" by the car.
No error codes found on ISTA Rheingold (I was waiting for something related with fuel, pressure, start engine, etc).
By checking the status with the engine on I could see this 2 issues:
Massenstrom vom HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Mass flow from HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Abgleich Drosselklappenmodell (Faktor): 0.55
Balance throttle module (factor): 0.55
Any ideas?
#40
#41
Dears,
Today I learned a lesson.
For my pump model, you really need the right tool to close properly the ring over the pump or you need a second person to press the pump into the tank while you hit the ring with a screwdriver and a hammer. Adding grease to the ring helped a lot too.
Today I have reinstalled the pump with the help of a friend and I could see that the fuel pump was not 100% pressed to the bottom of the tank.
Now the ring was closed and turned correctly and the fuel pump totally pressed. No fuel/air leaks.
After that, the fuel tank has been filled.
I did the fuel pump test from INPA, without problems (pressure pump on for 10 seconds).
I have also deleted from INPA the "fuel on-off learned" by the car.
No error codes found on ISTA Rheingold (I was waiting for something related with fuel, pressure, start engine, etc).
By checking the status with the engine on I could see this 2 issues:
Massenstrom vom HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Mass flow from HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Abgleich Drosselklappenmodell (Faktor): 0.55
Balance throttle module (factor): 0.55
Any ideas?
Today I learned a lesson.
For my pump model, you really need the right tool to close properly the ring over the pump or you need a second person to press the pump into the tank while you hit the ring with a screwdriver and a hammer. Adding grease to the ring helped a lot too.
Today I have reinstalled the pump with the help of a friend and I could see that the fuel pump was not 100% pressed to the bottom of the tank.
Now the ring was closed and turned correctly and the fuel pump totally pressed. No fuel/air leaks.
After that, the fuel tank has been filled.
I did the fuel pump test from INPA, without problems (pressure pump on for 10 seconds).
I have also deleted from INPA the "fuel on-off learned" by the car.
No error codes found on ISTA Rheingold (I was waiting for something related with fuel, pressure, start engine, etc).
By checking the status with the engine on I could see this 2 issues:
Massenstrom vom HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Mass flow from HFM: !1062.00 kg/h
Abgleich Drosselklappenmodell (Faktor): 0.55
Balance throttle module (factor): 0.55
Any ideas?
After some research I can say that related to the "Mass flow from HFM" error shown above:
1) I have not MAF/HFM (Mini Cooper non-S 2010)
2) I'm running a K&N conical filter whitout problem since years (replaced every 30K)
Last filter replace was 6 months ago without any problem.
1) I have not MAF/HFM (Mini Cooper non-S 2010)
2) I'm running a K&N conical filter whitout problem since years (replaced every 30K)
Last filter replace was 6 months ago without any problem.
Ah so its was the seal and that ring seated. Thanks for the update.
On the MAF code, you dont have a maf ( EURO ) , so I dont understand the code either. All I can think is that its a MAP air senor issue.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#42
I have a new and unused tank fuel pump for free in my hands!
A friend with a Mini Cooper S, bought this tank fuel pump some time ago by error (wrong p/n) and gave it to me since it does not fit his car.
Now I was thinking about how to get the gas tank "clean" before the pump change since it is like a filter replacement too.
I thought about using the car with low gas level and apply an fuel tank cleaner additive for get dirty the current filter.
Any idea?
A friend with a Mini Cooper S, bought this tank fuel pump some time ago by error (wrong p/n) and gave it to me since it does not fit his car.
Now I was thinking about how to get the gas tank "clean" before the pump change since it is like a filter replacement too.
I thought about using the car with low gas level and apply an fuel tank cleaner additive for get dirty the current filter.
Any idea?
#43
I was curious if the JCW pumps were effected.
(2011 JCW)
I did a little research and the 2011 JCW and
2011 S pump P/Ns are different.
Called the stealership and they say no recalls
And my VIN not effected.
Yet the HPFP was changed 3 months after delivery date back in 3/11.
If anyone can really decode the HPFP
Mystery it would be great.
I keep seeing all these posts about
The stealership honoring pump warranties
Even on the N18s.
(2011 JCW)
I did a little research and the 2011 JCW and
2011 S pump P/Ns are different.
Called the stealership and they say no recalls
And my VIN not effected.
Yet the HPFP was changed 3 months after delivery date back in 3/11.
If anyone can really decode the HPFP
Mystery it would be great.
I keep seeing all these posts about
The stealership honoring pump warranties
Even on the N18s.
#44
I was researching about the HPFP but since I have a Mini Cooper non-S, there is not a HPFP on the engine. Just the fuel pump on the gas tank.
Since it is an Euro MINI there is not filter on the passenger side, just a fuel pump tank with a filter integrated on the pump base.
In my case, the fail seems to be the fuel pump on the gas tank (the only one) if not any air/fuel leak on the fuel line.
Since it is an Euro MINI there is not filter on the passenger side, just a fuel pump tank with a filter integrated on the pump base.
In my case, the fail seems to be the fuel pump on the gas tank (the only one) if not any air/fuel leak on the fuel line.
#45
No problem. Welcome. I would check to make sure you dont have air getting in near the seal n the filter, then go to a failing main pump
Yea its the whole unit and pump : 16112754806 euro part
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/16112754806/
0975 0560 9900 thats does not come up with anything on my end.
Yea its the whole unit and pump : 16112754806 euro part
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/16112754806/
0975 0560 9900 thats does not come up with anything on my end.
ECSTuning
When buying the fuel feed unit, it has a new seal included or I should use the seal installed on the gas tank?
Thanks
#46
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#47
Update
UPDATE:
Now I have in my hands the new in-tank fuel pump plus the rubber O Ring.
Not installed yet because:
All my life I was driving between 1/4 and 1/2 fuel level.
To test the current fuel pump (while waiting the new one) I was running all the time between 3/4 and full fuel level.
Since that, the fuel pump is working OK !
I know you should not run the car with the lowest fuel level (the pump is not properly refrigerated and needs more effort to send fuel).
I didn't know that using full fuel tank level could fix the issue
I hope this can help other people!
Now I have in my hands the new in-tank fuel pump plus the rubber O Ring.
Not installed yet because:
All my life I was driving between 1/4 and 1/2 fuel level.
To test the current fuel pump (while waiting the new one) I was running all the time between 3/4 and full fuel level.
Since that, the fuel pump is working OK !
I know you should not run the car with the lowest fuel level (the pump is not properly refrigerated and needs more effort to send fuel).
I didn't know that using full fuel tank level could fix the issue
I hope this can help other people!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mini Mania
Drivetrain Products
0
02-18-2016 10:47 AM
Austinsynthetics
MINI Parts for Sale
0
02-17-2016 11:09 PM