Do I need to put the car in service mode to remove the cylinder head? Book says yes but I see pictures online with the head off and it's not in service mode. I have a cracked exhaust valve.....

Thx!

 

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thx!

 

I don't think it's necessary. I did it without pulling the radiator support back. I'm not sure how much more enjoyable the job would be with the vehicle in service mode, but you can most definitely get er dun without going through the hassle. Take the front bumper off so u can get at it from underneath. Just unbolt the manifold and leave the turbo attached u can work it out, after that u gots lots of space

 

Thanks!

Yeah, it would be a monumental pain in the a** to put it in service mode for me because I added an RV towing attachment to the frame. It sounds like I'll only need the mini cooper timing tool set for assembly back together after reading other posts. Any other tools you would recommend?

Thx

 

Umm u gonna need the spark plug socket, torx sockets, they say some sort of tool to jam in there and hold the timing chain in place or something but u might as well do chain n guides while ur there. That's pretty much all I can think of make sure u don't go cheap on the headgasket and buy new head bolts

 

Bentley manual is highly recommended, for torque settings, bolt tightening sequence, tty (stretch) bolt ID, etc. If you remove the fuel injectors, there's a special tool needed for seal installation.

Some timing chain tool kits include the chain tensioner, needed for setting the timing. Make sure you use this tensioner tool.

Make sure you label the connectors --- some can be interchanged.

Bentley manual says other special tools are needed, but the job can be done without them.

Have fun ---

 

Thanks for the reply! I've seen some of your earlier posts. I do have the Bentley manual. Think I just need the timing tool and should be good to go. At a minimum I need 1 new exhaust valve. I'm wondering if I should do a new timing chain with the head rebuild? I'm at 110k with no history. I also think I should do a leak down? I've been out of the game for awhile. No kids 15 years ago did rings on my Cherokee and valves on old ladies Honda. Time to get my game face on!!!! Did do oil filter gaskets last year and rv hookup, not fun but made it happen.

 

I think it's a good idea to do chain and guides while ur in there. How did the valve crack did you get hot or something? Might want to look into a refurb head swap unless your really comfortable in there. Jm turbo coopers gave me a good deal on mine

 

Busted the valve towing me and a buddy's dirt bikes up to riding area! Just continued on (was fine over 3000 rpm(keep it in 4th gear) road bikes and then headed home about 100 miles. Had some serious carbon build up. Not sure if that's why it fried but i suspect... Ill look into refurb thx.

 

Assuming a machine shop will do the head work, most shops want the head stripped of all bolt-ons, including injectors. Either you get the tool for new seal installation or you take the head and injectors, with new seals to someone with the proper tool. This should be one of the first things you do when putting it back together.

You could also use the chain tensioner to measure chain slack. This will help you decide whether or not to change guides and chain.

Leak down is always a good idea before a major teardown. At least a compression test. Why repeat all this to do a ring job?

My past experience was with the big 400+C.I. V-8's. I can assure you there's no comparison --- these european 4-cyl FWD's are DIFFERENT!

Keep us posted ---

 

Thanks!

So, have the head off now and stripped. I was a little surprising when I removed the fuel rail and all the injectors came out with! From the book it appears they are the early version. Not sure if that's why they popped out easily. I think it might be best to pay someone to replace the teflon seals rather than buy the tools? I don't plan on doing this again..... I also see no reason to remove the injectors from the fuel rail?

Let me know what you think.. Thanks.

 

Does anyone have experience replacing the Teflon seals on the fuel injectors? Is it easy, do I need the special tools? They are connected to the fuel rail so I think I will only need to replace the one lower seal on each, per the Bentley manual. I might just have mechanic with tools do it?

 

Any ideas on this? I'd like to order parts if needed. Thanks!

 

If you get the gasket set for the head (separate from the head gasket), it includes all the FI seals. The tools required for this job compress each seal in place --- one at a time. If you try to insert them all at once, the first one will "un-compress" before you get the last one compressed, making it virtually impossible to install them all together. They really need to be installed in the head one at a time, then the rail added.

I make this sound like I have lotsa experience --- I don't! I only did this once --- takes patience. It's possible a pro can do all 4 at once, but I doubt it. Maybe take the head, gasket set, four injectors AND the rail to someone with the tool, and let them decide the best way. Trick will be finding someone local with the tool.

 

Looks like I can get the tool for $105.00. Should I go for it and do it myself or is it worth it so save frustration and have a local mechanic do it?

Thanks!

 

That's a good price, mine was about $150. A mechanic with the right tool can probably do it in ½ hour. Find one and save a couple bucks. Or, buy the tool, use it once, then sell it. It's not a tuff job, just takes patience.

 

I never made it that far lol. Mine needed machine work so I took it in. Glad I did now.

 

Car has 110k should I put new injectors in? Or roll the dice? On one hand they are easy to replace.....

 

Got the rebuilt head back today! I need to finger out fi... I'm going to talk with independent mechanic and see what they think... $??
Thanks!!

 

I would do it since the head off anyway.

 

Any reason I can't install my manifold and turbo outside the car before I place the head on the block? It would be a ton easier (not in service mode) and I can't really see why not. Also, for the block, I cleaned the mating surface with a razor blade and scotch bright. It feels smooth but visually you can still see a witness of black dots from the old black rubber gasket. Should I polish the block surface or am I getting to fussy?

 

With the block still inside the car, it's gonna be awkward to install just a bare head. Load it up with cams, valves, etc. it's gonna be even heavier. Adding the exhaust manifold and turbo then installing it --- maybe, with lotsa help. Considering the relatively fragile guide pins, between the block and head, I wouldn't try it. Smash one of those and you have serious problems. And you still have to crawl underneath to connect the turbo oil return hose to the block. I highly recommend you do the manifold / turbo AFTER the head install and setting the timing. Getting into and out of service mode isn't as painful as what you're suggesting.

With "old black rubber gasket" you must be referring to the oil pan mating surface, so you should be OK as is. Your new gasket material (in a tube) will cover minor blemishes.

 

Unfortunately, service mode for me is difficult because I have a tow bracket bolted to my frame so I can tow behind my RV. So, service mode is not in my game plan. That's been fine so far and I'm in the assembly stages. So trying to make it easier to put back together. I totally get what you are saying though.

As for the gasket I was talking about the block to cylinder head mating surface. Sorry for the way I described it, at the time I didn't really now how to. I'll try to snap a picture tonight. It might be corrosion from the metal to metal contact?

Thanks for replying!!

 

OK, no service mode. I'd still do the head install and cam timing first. It's the turbo mounting hardware that's almost impossible to access when the manifold is installed. Mounting the turbo to the manifold BEFORE installing it to the head makes the job a little easier. Either way, it's gonna be a knuckle-buster.

Head / block surfaces gotta be smooth and flat. Some polishing processes could screw up the flatness. I don't have the experience or qualifications to make a judgement call, 'specially from a pic. Maybe someone else can advise?

 

Closing in on this project!! Need a little help if possible. Does anyone know the torque spec for the passenger side motor M16 nut. Not seeing anything in the Bently manual. Also, how do you torque the fuel line nut to the fuel rail??

Thanks!