If we are getting into race set ups rules etc. you have to choose tires first (yes my favorite) camber is a setting related to the tires sidewall and slip angle tendency. contact patch errrrrr integrity if thats right can almost end up second to how the sidewall supports the wheel and car,,,, while I like lots of camber its more a thing about my current driving style. Start with the least and work through to the max. Camber and roll kind of are reactions to each other as well, I like less roll but actually do better where I dont know the turns well with more roll its sort of a way to feel the way the car is reacting and can help avoid the rear wheel lift a little, Im talking tuning here a bit this way or that. the point Im trying to make is exhaust all the settings you have before making a change and tires are a setting.

 

If you see tire tests where they use one setting for all the tires you dont actually get a fair comparison a tire should be dialed in its a bit sad when a good tire is only tested one way on one vehicle Im quite sure some fantastic set ups were missed out on because of this.

 

I went with the same IE fixed camber plates that OP just got.

In theory they look like they'd increase caster too. I also purposely bolted the top hats at the inner most point of the oval holes.

It's getting an alignment tomorrow. I'll compare those numbers from before

 

I'm about to pick out my next track tires it's hard to find good reviews from front wheel drive owners. Thinking maxxis RC-1, more life than NT01 and yet still sticky and good audible feedback without going to a hoosier

 

I was close to getting Toyo R888. Been on NT01 with the Miata and liked them a lot.

But I chose a different set of wheels to use and ordered the Nexens cause I'm being cheap and only see myself doing 4 track days in the near future.

Having used the Mini on Federal RSR and Hankook RS3 I can say neither likes the tiny bit of camber I had before. But they worked fine. Anything below that is useless.

 

Awesome!!

I didn't get any emails but this thread took off haha!

I started looking at changing my tires this week. Currently on Toyo Proxes T1R...they handle well but I feel like its an insult to have the stiff setup I have and not tag along some sticky tires.

What I have available locally is limited. Prices are expensive and sizes are rare. Found some Toyo R888 as well BUT what's holding me back from getting expensive summer/semi slicks is that I still daily drive this Handling Monster

I'd cry on daily drives only thinking about the tire melting away. I will be cheap as well and get some Nankang NS-2R 215/45/17. They have been used by many here where I live and they are very well recommended. I may or may not pair them up with a set of light replica wheels of some sort. Weight, clears the JCW caliper, and looks goods are my priorities if I end up getting another set that will replace my R112 Challenge Wheels.

Next week I'll be going by the mini dealership here and see if I can bring down the price of their last JCW Recaro Seats. If the price is right, I may be uploading another picture soon (impulse buying haha)

As always, I'll keep this updated!

 

Does anyone do a special break in on tires, Was reading the Hoosier care manual seems like you need an actual test day to do it right, the part about setting them aside for up to a week is interesting, also why do radial tires need so much camber compared to bias hmmmm, yes super stickies are soft,,,,still wonder if heat cycling would matter with good performance tires

 

Hey Eddie, just for future reference, I was wondering what's your take on racing seats (reclinable or fixed). As you can see in my rear seat delete pic I have the MCS OEM seats at the moment and with this stiff of a setup, I am beginning to slide off them . I went to my local mini dealership and asked for the JCW Recaros........they were insanely expensive. It's their last pair and the driver's seat has been on display for a long time, so technically "used". And they still will charge around $3,600 bucks for them (pair).

So I gave up on those and started looking at aftermarket race seats. From my research I have concluded that for fixed race seats its a MUST to have a 5 or 6 point harness setup with a roll cage. Since this is my daily and I find this too extreme, I also looked at the alternative. From what I found is that some people recommended non-fixed racing seats with a 3-point harness because using racing seats and OEM seatbelts could be a death trap. I was wondering if you could recommend me a pair of racing seats aside from the JCW Recaros (something similar). I know in the end it comes to personal preference with regards to level of comfort, etc. But with brands in mind I could look up alternatives that are available locally (Sparco is here).

Speaking of safety, I was debating weather to go full face or open face helmet. I was almost crucified by a someone in the club when I mentioned open faced because he races profesionally and is all about full face helmets. Obviously I would only use it on track days 1-4 times a year so I think getting the most safe and approved helmet in the market would be as extreme as the roll bar setup mentioned above.

Any full face helmet recommendations for casual track days/autocross events? (a helmet that still has some certification. Not F1 certified, but enough for the use that I am going to give it) Found this one...

https://www.amazon.com/G-Force-3023L...pro+eliminator

Thanks in advance!

 

I have that same helmet, it is comfortable, fits me well and works with my glasses. The most important thing is a nice snug fit. SoloRacer.com gave me great advice on which helmet and size would work well for me. I think full face vs. open is personal choice, if you're doing casual track days with point-by passing and autocross that's a much different safety situation vs. professional racing.

To keep you planted in your seat, there are a couple of inexpensive options. First is the CG-Lock, it attaches to the seatbelt clip to keep the lap belt portion tight. I have used this and it works well. Next is the Schroth Quick-Fit harness, I am planning to get this for my next track outing. Both are easily installed / removed and don't require drilling any holes, so this is an excellent option since the car is also your daily driver.

Of course if you just have to scratch that itch for new seats, go for it.

 

Yeah, at first I was considering the Sparco Club J1 open face helmet...and I got grilled for it haha . Then there's the Sparco Club x1 full face helmet...cheaper than the one you have but perhaps not AS certified or badass looking as the Gforce. Took a look at soloracer as well, still debating between the Sparco Club x1 (available locally) vs ordering the Gforce linked for a bit more cash.

The racing seat and harness combo kind of passed after I wrote this post haha. It comes and goes as with all mods . I was not aware of those Schroth Quick-fit though...a tad more expensive than a stand alone 3-point harness and I must have both front seats equal because it would drive me mad just having one seat racecar and the other seat stock haha .

Thanks for the feedback squawskibum!!

 

What he said...I use the Pro Quick-fit and wear a HANS device. It works quite well.

I had a set of the Euro JCW Recaro seats. Got them used and while they were nice, I was not overwhelming excited by them on the track. I have seen a number of MINIs with race seats. I have also had rides in a lot of cars on the track; some with the worst seats (Corvette stock seats, worse than MINI's) to the best (NASCAR stock car, w/ a passenger seat). This is just an example of what I would look for in a race seat:
http://www.racing-seats-usa.com/sparco-grid.html
or
http://www.racing-seats-usa.com/sparco-pro-adv.html

Both of these seats have high leg support which a lot of seats don't have. This is important to keeping the g's from using the legs to twist the body around.

But, look at the pictures posted on the page the comes up with this post as it shows what you need to get into to put race seats in your car.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-turtel-7.html

As for Helmets - there is NO DIFFERENCE in safety between a Snell rated M helmet (motorcycle) and a Snell rated SA helmet except the SA helmet has fire retardant and the M helmet is about $100 bucks cheaper. Get a full face in whatever you get.

 

they changed snell, the foam is softer for bikes now.

Current snell auto have to take a repeat rollbar hit, bike helmets no longer have to do that

 

Thanks for that thread Eddie! Yeah, I keep telling myself that if I'm gonna get race seats and harnesses, I have to go all the way with a roll cage, etc. But then I forget and the mod hype comes back haha...vicous cycle .

By the way, did you use the schroth quick fits with OEM seats or the JCW Recaros? Do these need the rollcage and race seats or can these work without it? Read somewhere that these are more daily driver friendly and road legal.

Hi mega, so what you are saying is that its best to go with a Snell SA certified helmet then?

 

I'm not sure it matters much, but the testing is different now. The bike guys complained enough the foam was too hard for bike injuries

I've been knocked out myself and no change to the foam on older snell motorcycle spec, it did not take any of the impact

 

Interesting, I'll reconsider Snell M helmets then. Sorry to hear about the knock out mega

 

It is fun to drive to the track, no truck or trailer,,, but how to balance a good overall build,,,,, AC or no AC haaaa,,, I would spend time looking at lots of different setups at the track and think this through it gets to a point where a dedicated track car is easier,,,,,

how are your pedals set up heel toe and driving are much better if you adjust them,,,

Remember Driving is still more fun than getting to into too many mods (I sadly cant learn this) yes safety but you can learn a lot by finding what you can do with the set up you have and what its limitations are.

a second car to build out might be another way to go you could strip it down and take your time while you learn on the car you have

 

I stand corrected on the helmets. But most track cars don't have roll bars/cages to bounce your head against. So I am not sure what a SA helmet buys you. Also, a lot of race cars have the seats with the side head restraints, which is another layer of protection for those drivers. Again, not sure how that fits in with the helmet testing and with use in street cars. BMWCCA and PCA both allow SA and M helmets. Audi only allows SA, so there is no consensus. At least for now. I will need to buy a new helmet next year as my current one will age out. The only thing I know for sure, right now, is that it will be full face. If something goes extra wrong I don't want to smash my face on something. The rest, I will wait and see what the Clubs change to, if they do.

The Schroth Quickfit will fit any MINI stock based seat. I used them with both the JCW Recaro and stock seats. The seats must have harness strap holes or the separate head rests. These are needed to hold the rearward straps in place. They will not work with those later USA Recaro seats MINI had as an option for a while as they don't have strap holes (hope I remember that correctly) I had HMS (the group that imports them and certifies them for US DOT applications) check the fitment with the Euro JCW Recaros and they "approved" it. I have also seen these applied to a race seat and as long as all of the mounting points are the stock locations, I would expect that they will be OK. HMS sells the 5th point buckle for the Pro Quickfit and that is only for use with a race seat with the hole in the bottom. So it would seem that they are good to go with race seats. HMS is great to talk to if you have any questions.

The Schroth Quickfit is designed to be compatible with the USA 3 point safety belt setup and as such has a tear out section that allows your body to react the same in an accident as it would with the stock setup. This how they got DOT certified (eg they are legal to use on the road in the USA, even though the cops may try and bust you for "not wearing a seat belt" as "race harnesses" are not legally approved for road use). Now, there is controversy as to whether they are dangerous in a rollover and the roof caves in. Most organizations here allow them without a roll bar. But, some instructors won't use them. In that case, I put the CGlocks on the stock belts and go that way. I would use the CGlocks on the road. The harness is too restrictive for me to use on the road. Some people do use them on the road and like them. But, really, I get enough out of the car on the track and don't push it on the road and don't slide in the seats...

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks Eddie! Clubs don't really check for Helmet certification here where I live. It is not that strict and the track days organized by the Mini Club is private and more of a fun activity rather than professional/aggressive. You are also separated on purpose so you can race against your own time without being surrounded by others.

With that said I got a little bit ahead of myself....like you do with modding the car ....it happens every now and then haha, can't help it. I agree with you that a harness for daily driving is a bit too extreme and I'm not really sure if its road legal here...probably not...aside from the fact that for a harness most recommend the complete setup (Race seats and a roll cage)....so that idea is gone and I'll just apply a little trick I found in forums of how to get the "harness effect" with OEM seatbelts. Pulling the seat back, locking the seatbelt, and then moving the seat back to the original position. Haven't tried it yet but it seems to be the most efficient way to stay in place...it will also help me brake with my left foot as I have been practicing and it is complicated when you are trying to stay in place as well .

Anyways, I settled for this helmet in the end:

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motors...club-x1-helmet

It is ECE approved which is the DOT equivalent. And yes, while I do value my head and its components haha, I think going to the extreme of getting a SA2010/2015 full racemode helmet would be too much as I don't see myself in crazy and dangerous situations while attending casual track days 1-3 times a year. Opted for full face as well because some friends do occasionally go karting and having my own will make things more hygienic

I've got my camber plates, bushings, and lower control arms on the way! I'll post pictures and describe the new feel when its installed! (most likely mid-October though, still my daily, can't be without it haha )

Got my first autoX event next weekend. I'll try to upload a video here!

Oh and getting a set of Nankang NS-2Rs Semi-slicks 215/45/17 (very good reputation here and very good price when compared to other semis). Gonna stick with my R112 Challenge wheels until a set of used/affordable OZ racing wheels pop up. With the setup I have, I think running replicas or cheap knock offs is a slap on the face :P. And that should be it for 2016 haha...I seriously need to calm down on the spending hahaha (I know it will never end :P)

 

Woo Hooo

 

Hooked On Driving for example requires SA2005 or SA2010 helmets, M or DOT rated helmets are not acceptable. Check the requirements of whatever organization is putting on the track day, but as long as you are buying a helmet might as well get one that will be accepted anywhere.

 

So update on camber plates and tires.

The Nexen N Fera Sur 4 on the street feel just as good as it's competition. Huge amount of grip that I've never had on this car due to camber.

I was able to get -2.2 in front with the help of literally prying the strut tower inwards while tightening the 3 bolts to car. Also have -0.1 toe

I'm satisfied with that. Rear is -1.5 with 0 toe.

The camber plates did raise the front a tiny bit. Due to having springs/shocks this wasn't desirable but all it did was get rid of my rake and make it level.

 

That's awesome! I'll see what I can get when I get mine installed (October 17th to be exact...so far away )

Aiming get the front aligned in between -1.5 to -2.0 and the rear like yours at -1.5. I'll leave the toe with OEM settings which I believe is 0.5 all around...not sure.

Pretty much settled on getting the Nankang NS-2R 215/45/17.

And still can't make up my mind on helmets again haha! Any experience with these two (I know its an SA vs M rating....but since I don't race dangerously or have a rollbar, I figured I would consider motorcycle helmets. Besides 2015 Snell certifications would make it a long-term approved helmet as well, rather than getting the 2010)

https://www.amazon.com/RaceQuip-2739...%2Bhelmet&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Shield-Purcha...335180011&th=1

 

What makes you want the Nankangs? Aren't they a 180 Treadwear rating?

That throws you out of any street class for autox.

 

Just a minor word of caution with the front camber and stock springs. That is at some point, just over -2.0 deg, things (eg the springs and stuff around them) will start to rub. Don't know if it causes any problems or not. Just suggest checking on things in there, especially if you had to pry things over to get the settings you got.

 

Autocross here where I live, Chile, is not as regulated. There ARE categories, but its mostly by engine size and if the car is stock, modded, or heavily modified. I fall in the modded category for next weekend.

I chose the Nankangs because they have a very good reputation here by other mini club members, especially for the price when compared to other semi slicks like toyos8888. With this stiff of a setup and from personal experience at the track, I felt like I needed to up my tyre game. Chile is also getting out of winter and entering spring/summer which are super dry seasons, so I don't mind having extreme summer peformance tyres on. Besides their treadwear is 120 I believe and its much higher than other tyres in their category available locally.

I was just gonna ask, since the camber plates do lift the front a bit and my rear seat delete did lift the rear as well, would I be able to fit 225s in there? 225/45/17. I do have Eibach Pro/kit Springs on so I am unsure if there will be any rubbing with 225s. I don't mind sticking to 215s though, just a thought if there is any advantage aside from more grip