R56 Rebuilt engine startup issues
#76
there cant be more crud after last night lol. I can promise that... it was really minor but enough to cause an issue. Not like sludge or mud. I forgot to take a pic. I was beat. I was concerned about the cam rotating due to the vanos unit allowing it to. I watched this video at min 40 and made me wonder.. I didnt see this video before hand.
#77
The final torque is plenty high it will stretch the chain a bit and there is a tiny play in the blocks I do the timing after 3000 miles again its the exhaust more than the intake as the cam sensor will adapt a bit but spot on is best. I made an adjustable block jig to use with a dial gauge and angle wheel to set my timing you can look up how to set cams I think cat cams has a good write up, you need the specs of the cam and measure off the valve
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ng-blocks.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ng-blocks.html
#79
I just did my rebuilt. Eveything seems fine with the exception of pending missfire on cyl #1. I get ~150psi on all 4 cylinders. No oil-anti freeze mixing. It also shivers like it wants to turn off! I will be checking my intake lines for leaks and see what I find. What happens if the turbo doent spool? Mine feels hard to spin by hand.
Last edited by MiniToBe; 09-04-2016 at 06:07 AM.
#80
Turbo is supposed to turn freely by hand, just no wobble or end-play, of any kind. If it's tight, there might be crud built up on the exhaust end. Turbo shouldn't cause "shivers", unless it's severely blocking exhaust flow --- too tight. Painful to check, but sounds like you have a problem.
#81
Dont forget to have fun driving,,,,all those sound are good,,,,you can use a cheap dial gauge if you do get around to degreeing your cams. DI can be very flexible if you get into tuning you can even pass boost to get quick spool up but you need to see how lift and overlap are working then your logs will make more sense. I prefer a bit later boost hitting in more at 3000rpm but there are all kinds of ways to mix it up, well the ECU can be a pain, any way try it
#82
Turbo is supposed to turn freely by hand, just no wobble or end-play, of any kind. If it's tight, there might be crud built up on the exhaust end. Turbo shouldn't cause "shivers", unless it's severely blocking exhaust flow --- too tight. Painful to check, but sounds like you have a problem.
Last edited by MiniToBe; 09-06-2016 at 08:25 AM.
#86
Yes, the replacement turbo was from a good running engine. It spun super smooth and easy by hand. The other one I bought from ebay the cartridge only and it was stiff. I cleaned it up but it seems like I have to do another pass on it. At any rate, the engine ran a little better with this turbo.
#88
go with a performance cat at least CNT work, its just that the cat is in close and gets too hot its why the auxiliary water pump is there. A free flow cat will keep the engine happier, its a necessary fix, the ecu may need a cel clear fix but the cel is ok, the exhaust side is key to limit exhaust scavenge.
#89
no problem...i just want to make sure that that IS the issue im having...i have lots of spare parts and i can just swap and test
on another note, i have a tranny issue on my other mini...it ran great and i decided to replace the ATF oil cooler after there was antifreeze leak in that area, the tranny started slipping and eventually wont come out of 1st gear and still slipping...I cannot find a cut to the chase write up on how to do it!
on another note, i have a tranny issue on my other mini...it ran great and i decided to replace the ATF oil cooler after there was antifreeze leak in that area, the tranny started slipping and eventually wont come out of 1st gear and still slipping...I cannot find a cut to the chase write up on how to do it!
#90
Funny thing I just pulled over with a p0420 CEL. My cat was glowing hot. On one hand I was like thats ****ing awesome then the reality set in and I was like what the hell? Never noticed this before but again I just did a lot of work and added a wrapped high flow downpipe. I wasnt running in sport mode at the time. I had the lower rad hose come loose and drop down (known issue I now know of) and busted a hole in the hose. I let it cool down, patched the hole and added fluid to get home. Ran fine but left worrying about the down pipe.
On a side note a new VANOS Solenoid fixed the other CEL I was getting. I did also recheck the timing and tweaked it ever so slightly. Down to just the exhaust issue for now...
On a side note a new VANOS Solenoid fixed the other CEL I was getting. I did also recheck the timing and tweaked it ever so slightly. Down to just the exhaust issue for now...
#92
Honestly I do not remember. I saw the cel and pulled over within 2 miles. After it cooled down it ran fine. I ended up driving it home 25 miles at about 50 mph with no issues. I just do not have time till tomorrow to fix the hose. I am going to tie that hose down tighter then a bulls *** at fly time.
#93
A well wrapped pipe on a turbo or na can get red it doesnt need sport mode also you coated your pistons and chambers add a little more heat out the exhaust. That doesn't not mean you should not check. Any time you do any mod you should always check how the heat is flowing I make my own hood scoop to get better cooling and at shut down to let the heat out and my own heat shield to allow the center turbo section to cool down and its ugly so you cant go wrong. What were your intake air temps, ambient temps, engine temps, and Ill beat the bush,,,, degree those cams so you have a graph of how they work,,,, log your timing cam ignition etc. see how this relates to your engine cycle its a bit of work but its all about the heat flow and timing.
be sure to see how hot the pipe is as it goes under the pan you may need a heat shield,,, keep a space between the shield and pan, spaces are great, check flow through whole exaust any leaks also
use a phone app obd2 to gauge, intake temp, coolant temp, maf, cam timing and boost maybe lambda it gets to be to much to follow.
be sure to see how hot the pipe is as it goes under the pan you may need a heat shield,,, keep a space between the shield and pan, spaces are great, check flow through whole exaust any leaks also
use a phone app obd2 to gauge, intake temp, coolant temp, maf, cam timing and boost maybe lambda it gets to be to much to follow.
#94
#95
#96
#98
Im sure you will be coming up with your own stuff soon. Just remember to have fun,,,, at this point I would just take some time with the car building a routine,,,, car wash ahhhhh, up pull tires,,,, check about,,,, think of whats next put your mess about tires on go tear about, I once slept under that fiat just thinking about getting it together hmmmm you would think I was a better mechanic oh well I keep trying,,,,
OH do you know the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance.
OH do you know the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance.
#99
No i have never heard of that. I am ready to have more fun. I am going to a mini cooper club luau Saturday night. Just want to make sure she is ready for the drive. Never had a jack o'lantern car before. I have my list of things I want to do next but I need to recover $$$ from this project. I was getting worried I hurt something seeing it glowing but the engine really sounds great. I am only 300 miles into the break in. I have enjoyed your info that you have shared. I am learning a lot but still have a lot to learn. I still feel I have an issue causing some hesitation at when taking off. I kinda assumed it would have a punch to it and there is slight lag and gas mileage is down but that can be due to the rebuild.. Gas mileage side I mean. I am planning on a tune in a few weeks. That might resolve these issues but I am not sure.