In search of a reasonably priced 2007 MCS R56 Factory Rebuilt engine, should be the part number: 11002158705

Car has 131k auto, rest of car in good shape, it was consuming about a qt of oil every 2 weeks. Started with #1, #2 and #4 Misfires, in limp mode. Replace plugs, coils, valve cover, pvc hose and walnut blast. Dealer ran diagnostic and recommended above repairs plus turbo. Wasn't going to replace turbo without knowing the engine was good. Already had a bunch of recalled items replaced already (timing chain, thermostat) in the last 30k miles. Dealer said HPFP was ok.

No compression in #4 and sounds like something is loose in the block. Compression reading 150 on #1,2,3.

Search online came up with only a few Dealer options of over $5k and almost $6k with freight.

Thanks all for contributing to this site, it's been a god-send.

 

Last update we had on that part number it came back at $5,498.57 with a $500 core and then there would also be a freight charge as well.

You could try to find a low mileage engine on car-part.com and save yourself thousands. We've gotten a couple off there and had decent luck with them.

 

With N14's we never recommend going with a used engine has many owners never did maintenance on them so often they need repair before using and it doesn't warrant the savings.
If your head is good going with a short block and using your top end may work well.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/n14-sh...-cooper-s.html

Otherwise a new engine is the other good option.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/n14-co...-cooper-s.html

 

Is the new engine new or old stock? Does it have the revised timing chain/cassette?

 

I once bought a car from the auction and it had no compression on cyl#2. when i took the head off, the spark plug had broken and basically damaged the cylinder wall and piston. I replace the bock and piston in my drive way and thank god the car is still running strong now. It can also be bad valves? was a leak down test also performed?

 

Didn't have the indy shop do a leak down test. He did a compression test with #4 having 0. My plugs came out ok, a little more burnt at 10k than what I'm used to with Honda(s). At 131k, I resign to the fact that a rebuilt or new motor is needed. May even put in a new turbo, so essentially it's a new drivetrain less the auto trans. The previous owner had all the receipts from the dealer, there was a service record that suggested there may be worn piston rings and valve seals are leaking causing the oil burning. It was just a pain in the rear to add a qt or so every 8-10 days of driving. Since the shop will be doing the replacement, trying to keep parts cost to something manageable.

 

See my sig for thread on swapping out the motor.