The only thing we need to know is the check engine light codes. If none, the mechanic should have scaned it first and logged the codes before errasing them

 

So, I am dumb. Turns out my Autel autolink works just fine on Mini's! I have only ever used it on my Gm's and Chevys. Glad I don't trust myself and tried again! Just went into my shop and got these codes!!
stored codes:
P2414- O2 sensor exhaust sensor error blank 1 sensor 1
P0014- B camshaft position timing over-advanced or system performance bank1
P2626- O2 sensor pumping current trim circuit/open bank 1 sensor 1

Pending codes:
P2414 again
P0014 again
P2626 again
P0300- Random/ multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected

 

Just a couple of new thoughts:

If the current engine runs I would think it would be much less expensive to repair it rather than replace it with an used engine of unknown quality. But get a second opinion.

There is a list of MINI Clubs near the bottom of this website’s main page.

Sounds like you’re in Canada - maybe Alberta?
It looks like there is a MINI Club Calgary
https://www.facebook.com/CalgaryMINIClub

Make contact with them and maybe someone could give you some repair leads.

 

I am in British Columbia. Yes I agree I just thought that knowing it ran on such low oil it wouldve definately killed the engine.. what could I do to determine how bad the damage is inside the cyclinders. Compression test?

 

Yes, a compression test will tell you most of what you need to know. Whether the engine was damaged enough to justify replacement is still not determined. You can drive a car with a low oil quite a bit if you drive it gently.

It's also a reminder that every couple-three tanks of gas, it's a good idea to check the oil level regardless of how recently it was changed.

 

So over Christmas break I took my mini to a different shop. The shop I had it at before just kept telling me that mini coopers are awful and that I should get rid of it. The new shop started all over. They said I probably need a new engine in the near future but then my mom started chatting with the owner of the shop and I think he pitied me, so he told his mechanics to start all over again and to get the engine light off and get the power back so that I can keep driving it. When I pick up the car sometime this week I will let you guys know all the details but so far I know that the wires in the O2 sensor were melted, aswell the timing chain had skipped a couple teeth. They also said something about some oil in a gasket and spark plug for cylinder 2 being pretty bad. Either way, much cheaper than a new engine and it will give me some time to save up some money for a new engine eventually.

 

Also they said something about there being rust on the cams.. which is very confusing because they were replaced less than 10k km ago..

 

Sounds like this is a better shop than the first one. Probably not all will be well but, so far, it doesn't sound like catastrophic unrepairable problems. It is likely there will be some issues that should be taken care of. But there is a very good chance the car will be usable until you can afford more repairs. Hopefully you will get a more detailed report of issues when you get the car back later this week. Discuss repair vs replace with them. If they recommend replace then discuss "rebuilt" (cheapest) vs "remanufactured" (mid-cost and probably best choice) vs OEM (new from manufacturer and most expensive).

In any event it sounds like you owe your mom a really big hug.

 

I'm facing something similar, as the previous owner of my car ran the car low on oil. Here's the deal: these cars burn a lot of oil. If you're not checking oil level weekly, you'll run it low and cook it. BMW, in their wisdom, didn't include a low oil sensor on a $30k car. Go figure.
You'll find that replacement engines are $2500-$3500 on car-part.com. Similar on Ebay. A rebuilt long block is $3250, plus labor. Basically, if you can't do your own labor for an engine replacement, it'll cost more than the car's replacement cost. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

One thing: If you buy another Mini used, get a compression check, leakdown check, AND scope the engine. Otherwise, you'll probably be buying someone else's problem.

 

Yes I will now forever be **** about my oil level. lesson learned..stupid BMW. I am planning on saving up and possibly getting a new engine eventually. Then I will just drive it into the ground. I feel I am too deep to sell it or anything else since I only bought the car 4 months ago.. And no kidding, Next time round there will be extensive testing before I buy a car, my family will never let me live this one down. And I have been searching for months for a steal to come up online for an engine but now that its at the new shop I will just wait. thanks to everyone who has posted!

 

it is still unclear what the issue is with this engine. low/no oil will/may damage the vacuum pump and cause the engine to seize. oil leaks are expected and gaskets dry up all the time.

 

No sensor replaces the owner's responsibility to check oil on a vehicle. It burns me up that BMW removed the dipstick from their engines, forcing me to rely on a sensor (and any sensor can FAIL, while a dipstick cannot) and making it impossible to check the oil level before starting the car.

IMO you are much, much better off with a dipstick than an oil level sensor. And don't forget, there's still an oil pressure warning light. To me, an oil level sensor is one of the more useless things that can be installed on a car...at least for a competent driver who checks the condition of the car at regular intervals. Incompetent drivers? Don't care about 'em.

Rule #1 of having an oil change done on any car: check the oil level before, or as soon as, you drive away from the shop! People make mistakes, and that's a really easy one to catch.

 

Our '10 Justa has an oil level sensor, I thought all of these did? Though I don't ever let ours go off. The first time it triggers (and it only ever does it on a really high-G turn) I fill 'er up. It will usually take at least a quart in that scenario, thus why I do my best never to let it get to that point.

100% agreed on mechanical checks versus sensors, though.

 

Mini engines don't necessarily use oil. But ANY smart owner will check oil often when they buy a used car, as that is one critical factor they have no info about.

PLEASE people, in your car keep a record book. Note every repair, oil change, tire rotation and quart added. If you have good records, you will know the oil consumption habit of your car, and you will be able to check it at appropriate intervals. I've owned cars in which the right interval was every gas fill-up. I've had others where it was once a month.

 

I'm not necessarily disagreeing, but the oil pressure warning light? If you're there, it's too late.

My point was that for the majority of drivers, not having the low-oil sensor encourages lax maintenance. Why should we care about the incompetents? Because they provide the used cars the young guys buy and learn to love, then buy new ones when they can. They also continue to buy the Minis, allowing the brand to continue. Not having that sensor, even if it can fail, means a huge population of cars with shortened-life engines. If it's there on more recent cars, then kudos to BMW.

Take a look online at the cost for junkyard engines for the 07-'10 years, and the relative scarcity vs. the earlier generation. There's likely a reason for that.

I was on another forum some time ago, reading the responses to a poster inquiring about buying his wife a Mini. It was pretty much "hell no", based on problems and reliability. And I think their sales figures show what happens when all that catches up with a manufacturer.

I might buy another Mini, but probably a Justa, and I won't spend that much for it. And I'll inspect the hell out of the engine first.

 

Got the car back today. So glad that I got the power back. They told me the timing chain most likely skipped due to the lack of oil in the car. They gave me a great deal. They also showed me pictures of my cams. There is pitting on them on them. Although they were replaced about 7,000 km ago. I think I might call the shop that installed them. Any ideas how this could happen? I thought that because of where they are in the engine they wouldn't be able to rust..

 

Glad you got it back and it’s drivable. I suggest driving it almost like a new break in. There’s a chance the low oil may have scored the cylinders and/or piston rings. Treating it carefully for awhile may just allow them to “reseat” with minimal wear damage.

You’re not out of the woods yet. Pay very close attention to oil level and keep records of how much you are adding. Gather data and that may help with any future decisions.

The pitting on the camshaft(s) could be for a variety of reasons - including low oil level. It may be an acceptable risk to run them like they are. It shouldn’t be an overly difficult job to replace them if needed.

You may have considerable life left but I would probably avoid running near redline.