Planning on taking my 08 MCS with 98k miles to the shop tomorrow to get it looked at, but any idea what to expect?

First, the engine seems to be moving around more than usual (auto trans). It jerks around when switching gears and it's most felt from the front, there's a clunking/tick sound that occurs when shifting from Drive to Reverse, and the most notable of all, a rattle that sounds like grinding/metal tapping on acceleration between 1000-2000 RPMs, mostly in gears 3-5 if it's in manual (auto would be roughly the same). Rattling especially occurs when accelerating slightly around corners (gears 1-2). Can't really tell where it's coming from in the car, but if I roll the windows down, it's loud and clear. Didn't notice it until a few days ago, it's just been sitting in the parking lot since. I cannot recreate the sound in park or neutral.

I thought it might be a bad motor/trans mount, but I tried moving the engine and there is minimal movement (funny since it loves to move around and clunk when changing gears/accelerating). Oil was changed 3k miles ago, although it has an oil-burn smell now and I can see a bit leaking from around the oil reservoir. Not sure if it has anything to do with the rattle, but I topped up a quart and let it sit in the lot for a few days. Haven't noticed any leak.

Noting that much of this occured after I drove over a pothole that scared the crap out of me (passenger's side), and I thought my tires would be gone. Also driving on LA roads, not the best, probably the worst.

If anyone can tell me what I COULD expect to need repairs? Doubt it's the timing chain, that's already been replaced when it was under warranty, and it's not the death rattle. My engine sounds healthy. And a timing chain wouldn't make this kind of rattle that gets worse around corners, would it?

 

You should replace the lower engine mount. It made a big improvement in the clunkiness of my 2009 Clubman S with automatic transmission, when shifting from gear to gear, and when lifting off the accelerator, etc. And my mount only had 60,000 miles on it. Curiously, the rubber in the new mount felt softer than the old mount, but it is noticeably better. The lower engine mounts are fairly inexpensive and only takes about 5 minutes to swap out. I don't know what the sounds could be.

 

There is no oil reservoir... What are you referring to?

 

Hmmm...not sure what it is then, either way it holds something and has oil on the outside of it now. Has a drain hole by the looks of it...sorry for the poor explanation.

 

I'll look into that. How many lower engine mounts are there? Might just do that myself if it's easy enough.

I also failed to mention that there is a pipe of some kind that sticks up from the engine on the passenger's side that comes in contact with the rubber seal where the hood rests when moved into reverse. I have a feeling it shouldn't do that.

 

Common oil leaks for our engines are the oring between the vacuum pump and head, the oil filter housing gaskets, turbo oil supply line, and possibly the heat exchanger orings also.

Maybe someone installed an oil catch can on your engine...? That might have a small drain on the bottom. Just guessing.

Regarding the rattle, it kind of sounds like it could simply be loose swaybar end links. They make a sound kind of like a rattling metal chain and the sound can be louder while turning or swerving back and forth, and you can sort of feel the sound of the parts moving.

There is only one lower engine mount. There are 2.upper mounts I think, and they support the weight of the engine and transmission. The lower mount prevents the engine and and transmission from swinging forward and backwards while supported by the upper mounts.

 

Much appreciated info. The rattle noise is pretty close to what you're describing. But would that rattle occur only at low RPMs like mine? Between 1000-2000 rpms, much louder around turns. If I'm idle and I quickly press and release the accelerator so the RPMs rise to just above 1k, I can recreate a shorter version of the sound too. Works in Drive and Reverse, unfortunately not in Neutral or Park, so it's kinda hard for me to take a listen to where it's coming from. Can kinda feel it in the accelerator pedal a bit sometimes.

So far the sway bar end links and lower motor mount are what I'm betting on and will have a look at since they make the most sense.

Also, I don't believe there's an oil catch can...I'll take a look one more time.

 

End link noise would not be RPM-specific and there would be no repetitive pattern to the noise. Before I tightened my end links, I was able to reproduce the end link sound on my car by pushing down that corner of my car, as well as with various driving scenarios.

Can you hear the noise while the car is in D or R and while your foot is on the brake and/or emergency brake is on (and maybe you give it a little gas to get to 1,000-2,000 RPM), or does the car have to be in motion to hear it? The noise could be from anywhere, even something out of position in the engine bay.

 

Just for grins, check that your high side air conditioning line is in position at the firewall... Back in 2012 mine was causing a buzz/rattle when coasting at 2800 RPM and 3200 RPM when accelerating and the dealership found it was out of position, and repositioned it.

 

If I do that I can hear the noise just a bit, but it's quick and faint. I'll have someone else get behind the wheel so I can search for where it's coming from.

 

If the clicking noise is happening especially while turning and accelerating from a stop, or low speeds, I would think worn CV joints.

 

I apologize in advance if I don't use appropriate mechanic verbage. My issue is similar to the original post. I have a 2011 mini Cooper hatchback manual transmission with 94k miles. From not moving to accelerating, usually from 1st to 2nd gear while making left turns, my car rattles and jerks a bit. I can hear it on the left and I can feel the sound where my feet are. I just had my left axel replaced. Noise is still there. Please advise. Thank you.