Hey Guys so i am looking at buying a 2011 r56 with 120k. I have owned two n14's and i am now ready to upgrade for something more reliable. I went and drove the car yesterday. And i really only noticed 2 thing that threw some questions.

( https://www.columbuscjd.com/used-inv...anchor-make-22 )


First being that the clutch was weird. Both of my other mini's clutch have had more depth. It was a had shallow push as soon as you were trying to let out the clutch it was hard to because of the push back. I love the hard push back that Mini has!

Second would be the history. It is a one owner that has seen mini every 10k for oil changes. That worries me a little just because i know i have done every 5k. Other than that the car was dirty. The sales guy said we was going to check into the clutch because he thought that the guy had said something about it being replaced. He said that they traded it in due to need a bigger car ( Jeep).

I felt as if the sales guy was not trying to ******** me. He had owned a justa before then had a list of cars that he had owned (justa, srt-4, sti, evo, st) and currently owns a RS.


I will say i drove a 2013 ST after the Mini and i wish i could afford more because if you can get past it being made by ford i really liked it.

 

lots of miles on it, check for leaks. See if the thermostat, water pump, oil filter housing, or turbo oil line have any signs of leakage.


The wheels on the car aren't the ones it was shipped with (bmwvin.com), it has plastidipped bridge spokes on it (painted over the wheel weights). The car has some nice options, real leather seats and navigation. Make sure that all works and there are no CEL's.


The miles depress the price quite a bit, if it had 80k on it, price would probably be 10 or 11k.


I don't see enough to scare me away....


Have fun,
Mike

 

Price is ridiculous for 120K. They should nock off atleast 2-3K from that price. I have always had the best luck buying directly from individuals after getting the car inspected, that would be my advice. I also have a 2011 S. I ended up doing a bunch of work to it (new shocks, belts, plugs, brakes, filters, walnut blasting, free fuel pump from dealer) Most I did myself to save cost but I would estimate atleast 1500 into it after I bought it at 83K miles. Also if they changed oil every 10K and it looks dirty the previous owner though it was an appliance, keep that in mind. As a frame of reference from a private seller mine was $6500 with 83K and they probably let it go because of the fuel pump and didnt tell me but that was free anyway so whatever. I got a good deal but even if you buy from a dealer it should not cost that with 50% more miles. Mini retains value very well but our cars are about to be 2 generations old after the refresh.

 

That thing is loaded!

 

i wish it had keyless entry level. It's not a must but my 07 had every option and it was well worth it.

 

Where do you live? Here in Ohio n18 is hard to find at a decent price.

 

I have a 2009 MCS, N14, with the stiff clutch, and a 2013 JCW, N18, that has a very light clutch comparatively.
The 2013 seems to let out at the very, and feels like the clutch pedal is just kind of "swinging" in place when compared to the 2009. I don't know if a JCW "thing", or the clutches on the N18's were changed.

 

Price is way out of line with reality. Mini's do not have longevity in their genes. At least as far as I can tell at this point. I'm driving a 2007 S with 95K miles.


Assume that virtually all rubber bushings (engine mounts and suspension) have deteriorated past their service life.


Unless documented otherwise, assume that the water pump and thermostat need replacing. Control arm ball joints and shocks are likely at the end of service life.


Make sure you find a Mini fluent mechanic for an inspection.


Can you get, and post, service history?




Good luck!