Threads are M10X1. It's common to Mini, BMW, and Volkswagen apparently.

 

Thanks Gubi.
M10x1 means that a 8mm tube will pass through. Will it also go in through the overflow tube in order to fill the transmission?

 

I doubt it. Suggest getting the proper threaded fill adapter.

 

Planning to do what you are suggesting i think its a best alternative ,Our car is a mini s convertible 2011 you are right its really difficult to access the fill plug by not removing coolant tube.I believe what you are saying is the manual pump adaptor that is for vmw and mini could fit in the overflow tube (size 5mm allen) wrench is match with M10X1 adaptor,was it correct ?if correct is it easy to fill in closed system meaning no vent port?we have a sealed system if you lock in the adaptor isnt it? what pressure would push the trans fluid in,did you heat the fluid as per pelican parts advice before loading in? if it is easy how many quart were you able to drain out and refill later. i believe you need several flushing how many times you did it to achieve almost totally new trans fluid .Also my mileage is 77k would it be advisable to do the transmission flush or i was late already and will make things worst than good( no problem whatsoever on my transmission at the moment) what woories me is the lifetime transmission definition of 80k as per BMW latest definition.advice highly solicited.my daughters car newly bought from a friend.regards and thank you for your initial tips and hope you find time to feedbk soon

 

I finally did the ATF change a week ago on our Countryman. I dropped the pan, changed the filter and the seal, too, cleaned the magnets, etc.
Filling it back up is pretty easy with the M10x1 adaptor and a pump. I managed to spill oil in all kinds of directions so it was a good idea I did the job in a shop with the right equipment and not in some driveway.
After filling, I let the tranny heat up a little, changed through all the gears and then, at around 40°C, I let the excess oil out through the overflow pipe.
Works well and gearchanges are smooth.
Thanks for all the advice.

 

4.25 quarts came out. Going back in with the same.

Dropped pan and opened drain plug on case next to the pan. Cleaned magnets and inside pan and put new filter on. Going to pump a little over 4.25 quarts back in throungh the drain plug using an extracter pump from Amazon and set-up shown in this thread with 1/8" tubing and push in joints with valve to shut off just below the threaded plastic 1/8" adapter that screws into the pan. Then going to have the plug ready to stick in as soon as I remove the adapter from pan to minimize fluid loss and call it a day. Wish me luck!

 

I'm not understanding this pump setup...

 

I responded in the other thread, but see my post #23 above for the way to do this when pressure filling from the bottom.

 

Sure that works, but $80 is the problem. ID rather just shift the tans forward a bit and get that nut then spend $80. But hey. I get it. Fun times either way.

I have one of these...maybe it could work. Its quite large and you can use it for many other things.

 

And it worked perfectly! Job done and no mess at all!

 

Cool....good tip.

 

You misunderstood: my point wasn't that you should buy the pressure filler, my point was that you should fill with the tool you had, but then follow the procedure in my post to get the level correct. Sorry if I wasn't clearer.

Anyway, glad it worked out.

 

oh ok got it. Thanks much!

 

The book (BMW) says to "1 secure engine in the installation position." and "2 remove the transmission support bracket" to remove the oil pan. Did you have to do any of those steps to remove the transmission fluid pan?

 

What the heck are those (1 and 2)? Oil pan is right there...

 

So I guess that's a no.

Yes the oil pan is right there, but there are two fasteners that are very close to the lower engine support rail on the driver's side.
One is a torx 30 on the corner of the oil pan (driver's side rear), and the other is just in front of that fastener and it's a 10mm bolt.

So I guess you didn't have any problem dropping the pan ... you didn't have to lift the engine/trans up.

 

I just did this a couple of weeks ago. Getting the torx headed screw out is a challenge. What I did was lift the trans.

1. Put a floor jack under the trans pan
2. remove the 3 bolts from the upper mount (near the ECU), all bolts accessible from the top
3. Raise the trans just enough to get the screw out.
4. Lower the trans a little and reinstall the upper mount.
5. Remove the pan, clean, and reinstall.
6. Repeat steps 1 & 2
7. Install a hex bolt in place of the torx screw, put the torx screw in a spot that is easy to get to.
8. Lower the trans, reinstall the upper mount.
9. Tighten the bolts on the trans pan evenly. You should be able to final tighten the hex that is between the support and the trans pan (where the torx screw was) with the trans in the proper location.

FYI, I have never replaced the screen or the gasket when doing this. And make sure that you remove the stand pipe when dropping the pan, or the pan will be pretty full and make a mess. The gasket is reusable. There are two magnets in the pan, wipe those down while the pan is out.

Mike

 

Mike, there is a filter in there right?

This is what I found online.

https://www.carid.com/wix/transmissi...n-wl10416.html

 

Yes, the 'filter' is the pickup for the pump. There is a fine metal screen in the 'filter', not a paper element like the oil filters. There is generally no place on the trans filter to trap materials, it only prevents them from being sucked up into the system.

Mike

 

For those interested in replacing the transmission filter, would this method also allow access to and removal of the hidden star transmission pan bolt?

 

Yes, that worked for me

 

I need to do the same thing... Filter, gasket and flush. I gots all the parts and fluid. Need a kick in the *** ..

 

 

The impossible process of changing, adding, or even checking the auto transmission fluid in my 2007 R56 Hatchback is an example of engineers who design this mess not being required to spend a couple of years on the shop floor working on the stuff they design.

 

Its absurd. Dipsticks and drain plugs should be mandated by law. They dont even include dipsticks in some modern engines . Its a sensor. COME ON MAN! This is crazy.