Hello guys, I'm hoping to join the forum soon with my own Mini, but I was looking for some help (Located in Southern Cali).

I'm currently looking at buying a MANUAL 2010 Mini Cooper S 2-Door Hatchback with 54,000 miles for around $8,000
a MANUAL 2006 MINI Cooper S Hardtop 2 Door with 62,000 miles for around $7,500.

What should I look for before I head out to inspect the cars?

What are common problems that Minis have?

Any advice would be helpful since you guys already have the experience. I look forward to hearing from you guys.

Thank you.

 

2010:
2006:

 

Honestly they are two totally different cars so I would for one suggest driving both and seeing which you prefer.

Then I would for sure have it inspected by a MINI mechanic to find out what it will need as both those cars are likely to need something and better to find out before you buy.

 

With used cars newer is preferred over older. Low miles over higher miles. Condition. Condition. Condition.

A MINI is just a used car so a good thorough used car check out is paramount. If a "common" problem is "A" and you focus on "A" but miss "B" that's not good. You want to ensure the car is free of any problems besides having been treated reasonably well and serviced correctly.

Here's something you might find useful:

A 2006/2010 Mini is just a used car so you should inspect/check everything.

My general advice is to visit the car cold, open the hood and check the oil level if you can at the engine, look to verify the other vital fluid levels are ok. Get a feel for how the engine compartment looks. Afterwards, leave the hood open.

In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.

Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.

Get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires. Ideally they should be factory sanctioned tires and in good condition. Check the brakes, look at the rotors for signs of damage/excessive wear -- a lip around the rotor outer diameter.

Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. At the front carefully check the radiator fasteners for any signs of wrenching. Do *not* stick your hands into the engine compartment with the engine running. For careful check of the radiator fasteners check these before *you* start the engine. Be sure you have the key in your pocket so no one can start the car while you are looking inside the engine compartment.

After some few minutes -- the longer the better -- of idling and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving.

If equipped with an automatic while it is still "cold" have the driver perform an K-turn to see how the transmission responds to repeated and rapid changes in direction.

Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.

While a passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.

With the transmission up to temperature, or at least warmer -- have the driver do the K-turn test again.

After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.

After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.

At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Mini dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.

This PPI gets the car in the air so a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.

The test ride and drive are important. The engine runs about an hour and should have plenty of time to run through all the readiness monitor tests. If any fail this should have the CEL on. It should get the engine and the drive train plenty warm. An engine might not leak cold, just sitting there, but hot...

During both the test ride and test drive, you want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars generally look good on the lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.

If possible you'd like to know the service history of the car. Some brands the dealer service computers are connected but with other brands, not.

Unless the seller can supply paper work the services are current or you can run the VIN through a Mini dealer (perhaps) to know what services were done and and when, get the service schedule and see which services are due or close to being due and budget for those. Also adjust your offer to reflect what you will have to spend to bring the car up to spec.

Tires should be on good condition as so should brakes. If tires are worn unevenly budget for an alignment assuming wear is not severe enough to suspect the car's bent. In this case you don't want an alignment you want to walk away from the car.

Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something seriously negative about a car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.