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Hello...I would like to ask..but first I will explain what I did...(2013 MC S R56 LCI Hatchback)
I connected the speakers and amplifier to my OEM stereo and I fixed the engine noise (new wire from brown negative stereo body wire direct to the amplifier negative terminal), everything worked well but only one thing..when I open the car door I see the blue light on the amplifier turns on and after few seconds if I didn't start the car I hear a popping noise (something like bombs) then quite...also If I closed the doors and locked the car I hear the same popping noise..I put a switch (off-on) as following (have a look to the photo attached):
1- gold pin = to negative new wire going to amplifier negative terminal and all together to the car body.
2- middle pin = remote blue wire to amplifier remote terminal (output).
3- last pin = connection from the stereo positive (input).
The switch was tested in another project with the same connection way and worked well...and I know that there is a main cable coming from the battery direct to the positive terminal of the amplifier..my questions are:
1- How to disconnect the current when I open the door and not let go to the amplifier?
2- If not possible, how to fix the popping noise?
I was thinking if I connected the remote wire with turn on-off button of the stereo maybe...but even the key is not in the car and the car is off, the stereo still working..the current still coming from the battery if I opened the door..
By the way, I had before Lumina ss, GMC Sierra Dually, Ford Escort, Chevrolet Cavalier and Daihatsu YRV and I never face such popping noise like this because I used that stereo turn on only when I turn on the stereo/radio...
I will be thankful if anyone could fix this matter..
Hertz speakers + Pioneer 6 channel amplifier and subwoofer
Could you draw a schematic of the system? Where is the power coming from? Where is the negative connected to? What are you using for your remote turn on? Are you using an LOC? What is the model number of the amplifier? How did you set your gains?
Thank u allenm324...
1- Could you draw a schematic of the system? I will..
2- Where is the power coming from? from battery big wire direct to Amp / from stereo harness (thick brown&orange wire) to Remote blue wire. 3- Where is the negative connected to? from stereo harness thick negative wire to Amp terminal and from the terminal to car body.
4- What are you using for your remote turn on? Nothing..as I said I just tried to connect the remote blue wire to a switch (photo attached above) and the switch turned on and off but didn't cut the current which going to Amp...Also I removed the remote wire totally from Amp terminal and I saw the Amp still getting a power.
5- Are you using an LOC?
No
6- What is the model number of the amplifier?
Pioneer Champion Series GM-D9605 Class D 5 CH
7- How did you set your gains?
I don’t no how to write it here 😁😁 if u mean adjusting? I adjust according to peak power of speakers..
A moment ago, while ‘am writing the Amp model I saw and heard that pop sound was coming from the subwoofer model (Pioneer TS-SWX2002)..the top layer..and that loud sound like a mouse...
An LOC is a "line out converter" which converts an amplified output signal (such as from the stock radio's built in amplifier module) to low level signal, as needed by pre-amp circuits (as found in all amps that have cinch type input connectors).
"Gain" is roughly speaking how much the amplifier amplifies. It is usually set by rotary dials. It is not supposed to be used as volume control (although it is not rarely misused as such). Read the amplifier's instruction manual on how to correctly set the gain.
All car signals and sounds are played through the R56's radio system so the built in amplifier is automatically switched on as soon as you open the door.
Last edited by giorgos; 04-11-2020 at 09:57 AM.
Reason: added info about gain.
An LOC is a "line out converter" which converts an amplified output signal (such as from the stock radio's built in amplifier module) to low level signal, as needed by pre-amp circuits (as found in all amps that have cinch type input connectors).
"Gain" is roughly speaking how much the amplifier amplifies. It is usually set by rotary dials. It is not supposed to be used as volume control (although it is not rarely misused as such). Read the amplifier's instruction manual on how to correctly set the gain.
All car signals and sounds are played through the R56's radio system so the built in amplifier is automatically switched on as soon as you open the door.
Thank u..
I understood now about the signals..any way to shut it off? I mean the stereo..
Do u mean (about the LOC) is that cables with pins white and red? same as AV cables??
I used the OEM wires which came with the amp (white, grey, green, violet) and connect directly..the salesman of Hertz I think told me something about that long time ago but I just remembered..he said something like “Hertz Amp has an auto adjustable of high or low level” but I bought Pioneer..
Also I would like to ask..If I changed only the stereo with another one, that play video files, am I going to be able to watch that videos on the OEM screen? Or should I change the whole system?
Rather than us speculating on what you have installed and/or how it works (and then you speculating on what exactly we mean): why don't you tell us exactly which amplifier (and possibly other devices) you have installed and where you took your input signal from. If your amp has multiple inputs, please also state which ones you used.
It will save everyone, especially those willing to help you, a lot of effort.
Rather than us speculating on what you have installed and/or how it works (and then you speculating on what exactly we mean): why don't you tell us exactly which amplifier (and possibly other devices) you have installed and where you took your input signal from. If your amp has multiple inputs, please also state which ones you used.
It will save everyone, especially those willing to help you, a lot of effort.
sorry..I wrote the information and edit my reply to allen (the first one who replied me) above and added the amp model and mentioned how I connected as following (plus models):
Pioneer Champion Series GM-D9605 Class D 5 CH amp
Hertz speakers
Pioneer TS-SWX2002
OEM car stereo
speakers connected direct from the OEM car stereo harness (stereo to amp and amp to speakers 4 CH + subwoofer 1 CH)
+ battery direct to amp.
- from OEM stereo harness to - amp terminal then both of them to the car body.
another stereo wire connected to remote wire which goes to amp
later on I tried to place a switch On/Off (with 3 pins) between the OEM stereo and amp for poping noise sound but not worked..as following:
+ from stereo to + of switch
- same ground wire to - of switch
then the last pin to remote wire
I wrote the information and edit my reply to allen
Ah, sorry, I didn't see that you edited your post. Apologies.
Originally Posted by maidi3000
Pioneer Champion Series GM-D9605 Class D 5 CH amp
This is indeed a high-level compatible amplifier (i.e. no LOC required) and it also has automatic turn-on when it senses that there is voltage on the input wires. This feature switches the amplifier on as soon as the stock radio is activated by the car's ECU (e.g. on door opening, see my previous comment). From page 11 of the owners manual, quote:
"If speaker input wires from a head unit are connected to this amplifier, the amplifier will automatically turn on when the head unit is turned on."
So it seems that the remote on wire (which you connected to that manual switch) is ignored when speaker level inputs are used and the amplifier comes on automatically.
I don't know what causes the "popping", maybe more experienced users will comment. High gain settings may be involved. Irrespective of that: you should read the manual more carefully, there may be further important or relevant information which you may have missed.
Check all of your terminal connection to make sure all wires are tight and there aren't any stray wire strands hanging out.
Since you don't use RCA cables I don't see an issue with the way you describe your wire runs causing the popping.
Where did you get the remote wire? Pin 1 from the X15 connector? You said "another stereo wire connected to the remote wire which goes to the amp".
Where is the amplifier located? Under seat? Boot passenger side?
Do you have the Bass Boost Remote installed? If so, try disconnecting it and see if it still pops.
Try setting your gains properly. You said "I adjust according to peak power of speakers". Never use peak power; use RMS. I can't remember if the volume **** has 53 clicks or 63 clicks, but I think I used 47 clicks for setting my gains.
A drawing will help. I'm having a little trouble understanding why you have brown, brown/yellow, or blue wires connected to the amp from the head unit.
Last edited by allenm324; 04-11-2020 at 09:10 PM.
Reason: Spacing
Thank u giorgos..
I will check the manual..I just found it last night while 'am searching somewhere at home..
Some photos were attached below..and I missed something didn't mention..
Originally Posted by giorgos
Ah, sorry, I didn't see that you edited your post. Apologies.
This is indeed a high-level compatible amplifier (i.e. no LOC required) and it also has automatic turn-on when it senses that there is voltage on the input wires. This feature switches the amplifier on as soon as the stock radio is activated by the car's ECU (e.g. on door opening, see my previous comment). From page 11 of the owners manual, quote:
"If speaker input wires from a head unit are connected to this amplifier, the amplifier will automatically turn on when the head unit is turned on."
So it seems that the remote on wire (which you connected to that manual switch) is ignored when speaker level inputs are used and the amplifier comes on automatically.
I don't know what causes the "popping", maybe more experienced users will comment. High gain settings may be involved. Irrespective of that: you should read the manual more carefully, there may be further important or relevant information which you may have missed.
Check all of your terminal connection to make sure all wires are tight and there aren't any stray wire strands hanging out.
Since you don't use RCA cables I don't see an issue with the way you describe your wire runs causing the popping.
Where did you get the remote wire? Pin 1 from the X15 connector? No, pin 2 according to the diagram above / pin 1 for GND / pin 3 for +
You said "another stereo wire connected to the remote wire which goes to the amp". It was a mistake hehehehe
Where is the amplifier located? Under seat? Boot passenger side? Boot passenger side
Do you have the Bass Boost Remote installed? If so, try disconnecting it and see if it still pops. yes and I tried but the same noise coming
Try setting your gains properly. You said "I adjust according to peak power of speakers". Never use peak power; use RMS. I can't remember if the volume **** has 53 clicks or 63 clicks, but I think I used 47 clicks for setting my gains. I am sos sorry, I meant RMS (low WATTS), I was confused when I wrote...
A drawing will help. I'm having a little trouble understanding why you have brown, brown/yellow, or blue wires connected to the amp from the head unit.
I wrote the wrong colors of wires, I will attached some photos showing the colors and where they were connected..I just took them
04-02-2020, 01:26 PM
