R56 Valve stem seal replacement
#26
#27
#28
So in the guide you linked that bolt is coming out after the cam sprockets have already been removed. In the TIS they have you remove the bolt before the sprockets.
keep in mind I am not removing my timing chain, just need to get cams out to do the valve seals,
do I need to remove that at all?
keep in mind I am not removing my timing chain, just need to get cams out to do the valve seals,
do I need to remove that at all?
#30
#32
So in the write up that heticor linked I was able to get as far as removing the tensioner.
So far I have not needed to remove any of the engine mounts or brackets, nor remove the throttle body.
I am now at the step where I can remove exhaust sprocket and vanos sprocket. I have the locking tools in place although they don't fit very well. I did have to grind some of exhaust tool off due to interference with turbo as mentioned. But the intake side does not sit flat to engine. As if the cam is slightly rotated when the crank is locked at 90 degrees. They will be put back rotated properly when the cams are reinstalled. Just bothersome that my cam seems a few degrees off. Or is my tool junk?
That aside. It seems the Bentley and the TIS want me to remove that upper guide bearing bolt before removing sprockets.
mildensteve, can you confirm that when you did this job (just seals, not timing chain) you did not need to remove engine mounts or brackets and did not remove the guide bearing bolt shown here. Because to do so require removing the brackets and lifting the engine.
I do know this is still out when the Bentley using the chain tensioning tool. So does this impact chain tension. Oddly the Bentley does not ever tell you to put back in.
So far I have not needed to remove any of the engine mounts or brackets, nor remove the throttle body.
I am now at the step where I can remove exhaust sprocket and vanos sprocket. I have the locking tools in place although they don't fit very well. I did have to grind some of exhaust tool off due to interference with turbo as mentioned. But the intake side does not sit flat to engine. As if the cam is slightly rotated when the crank is locked at 90 degrees. They will be put back rotated properly when the cams are reinstalled. Just bothersome that my cam seems a few degrees off. Or is my tool junk?
That aside. It seems the Bentley and the TIS want me to remove that upper guide bearing bolt before removing sprockets.
mildensteve, can you confirm that when you did this job (just seals, not timing chain) you did not need to remove engine mounts or brackets and did not remove the guide bearing bolt shown here. Because to do so require removing the brackets and lifting the engine.
I do know this is still out when the Bentley using the chain tensioning tool. So does this impact chain tension. Oddly the Bentley does not ever tell you to put back in.
#34
As I mentioned above I can't remember exactly how I did the seals (with or without timing chain) so a lot of this is from memory after working on a mix of three different R56's at about the same time (not recommended). Did you put the cam locking tools on before you removed the upper guide? If you did you may have had a timing issue in addition to oil burning. If you removed the upper guide before locking there may have been a little rotation of the cam which could cause the condition you mentioned. If you remove the tensioner before locking it would make the situation worse. If only a slight gap I would use the 26 mm wrench to rotate the cam back to flatten the tool against the head/block and put in the attaching tool screws/bolts. You don't want to loosen the sprockets/vanos bolts if not locked because the cam will snap rotate due to the valve springs force. Once you remove the VANOS and sprockets use the wrench to slowly release the rotational force while you remove the locking tool. I would not take that guide pin out. Not sure why they think it needs to be removed. IIRC it has to be installed before putting the sprockets back on.
#36
You beat me to it, I wasn't fast enough on my response.
#37
got ahead of myself and loosened this end piece at the end of the camshafts when loosening all the cam bearing cap bolts
Turns out that it is totally unnecessary to do that and obviously why the manual doesn't tell me to do it, doh!
Does anyone know what this is called and/or what the proper torques is for the three bolts that hold it to the head?
Turns out that it is totally unnecessary to do that and obviously why the manual doesn't tell me to do it, doh!
Does anyone know what this is called and/or what the proper torques is for the three bolts that hold it to the head?
#39
#40
If it makes you feel any better, I removed that bracket entirely when i did mine (totally unaware of the warning above). I retorqued it to the same spec as cam caps. Car has been running great! 🤞
#43
Alternative method for removal the camshaft
I found this method to remove the camshaft without this special tool.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...ft-removal.htm
#44
#46
#47
So to the point of torquing vanes and exhaust sprockets
the TIS says to pretension intake camshaft by using wrench and rotating right. I’m assuming they mean direction of engine rotation?
so am I just rotating the camshaft as far as it can rotate within the confines of the special lockout tool?
I imagine I have to hold it in that position while torquing the sprocket nut.
the TIS says to pretension intake camshaft by using wrench and rotating right. I’m assuming they mean direction of engine rotation?
so am I just rotating the camshaft as far as it can rotate within the confines of the special lockout tool?
I imagine I have to hold it in that position while torquing the sprocket nut.
#49
Thanks, yes that video matches what the TIS says except for the extra step I asked about. The cam has a few degrees of play when held in the locking tool so I am guessing they want you to remove those extra degrees by taking up slack with the wrench.
I'm kind of blown away that the sprockets aren't keyed at all to the camshafts. Nothing really prevents them from spinning except friction and the clamping force of the bolt. Makes me very nervous.....
I'm kind of blown away that the sprockets aren't keyed at all to the camshafts. Nothing really prevents them from spinning except friction and the clamping force of the bolt. Makes me very nervous.....