R56 Valve stem seal replacement
#1
Valve stem seal replacement
Planning to replace the valve stem seals on my N14 (R55 Clubman S) without removing cylinder head.
Seen some pretty expensive specialized tools to do this job (valve spring removal).
Stumbled on this tool this morning and wondering if any of you have experience using it for this job. Its universal and claims to work on many Audis, BMWs, VW, and Mini.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../029610sch01a/
Has anyone used this tool found at Amazon?
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. I can't seem to find an actual write up on anyone doing this but lots of bits and pieces of the process.
Has anyone been able to do with out removing cam shafts? Long shot I know. I'm lazy!
Thanks!
Seen some pretty expensive specialized tools to do this job (valve spring removal).
Stumbled on this tool this morning and wondering if any of you have experience using it for this job. Its universal and claims to work on many Audis, BMWs, VW, and Mini.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../029610sch01a/
Has anyone used this tool found at Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/Valve-Stem-Seal-N62TU-Engine/dp/B07TDSMV5P/ref=sr_1_2?crid=RZ29CBY5OFYA&dchild=1&keywords=n62+valve+seal+tool+kit&qid=1599316228&sprefix=n62+valve%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-2
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. I can't seem to find an actual write up on anyone doing this but lots of bits and pieces of the process.
Has anyone been able to do with out removing cam shafts? Long shot I know. I'm lazy!
Thanks!
#2
Not sure either of those will work. I used this one. Worked great. You are stuck taking the cams out since the rockers are UNDER the cams. Also, do NOT mix the cam caps. I believe they are line bored. Also make sure you get the right stem seals. Some suppliers don't know the difference between the W11 and N14 engines. You will also need the timing tool set if you don't have one already. Timing chain, guides, and main seal might as well be done since you are tearing into it anyway.
#4
Sure. Here is a link to an ebay ad for a similar set. You can tell how it is assembled in the picture. The bar goes between the two brackets (which lightly screw into the head/valve cover screw holes) at whatever level you need to provide the correct leverage to compress the springs. Be absolutely sure you cover EVERY open hole and put a white-ish sheet over the engine bay when you are doing this as the keepers have a tendency to fly away. And a telescoping magnet is another essential tool. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Engine...YAAOSwHp5bWDIs
Oh and use the "stuff a rope into the cylinder" method to keep the valves up. The compressed air method may work but only if you have a continuous air supply. It took me a couple of days to do the whole job so keeping the compressor on the whole time wasn't an option for me.
Oh and use the "stuff a rope into the cylinder" method to keep the valves up. The compressed air method may work but only if you have a continuous air supply. It took me a couple of days to do the whole job so keeping the compressor on the whole time wasn't an option for me.
#5
Sure. Here is a link to an ebay ad for a similar set. You can tell how it is assembled in the picture. The bar goes between the two brackets (which lightly screw into the head/valve cover screw holes) at whatever level you need to provide the correct leverage to compress the springs. Be absolutely sure you cover EVERY open hole and put a white-ish sheet over the engine bay when you are doing this as the keepers have a tendency to fly away. And a telescoping magnet is another essential tool. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Engine...YAAOSwHp5bWDIs
#6
Yup. N14. There are cheaper sets on ebay but I liked the picture of that one because it showed the tool assembled.
Here is a picture showing the two different seals. The smaller is the old seal from my N14, larger for the W11. Unfortunately I found out the difference when I went to install the wrong ones, hence why it took a few days.
Here is a picture showing the two different seals. The smaller is the old seal from my N14, larger for the W11. Unfortunately I found out the difference when I went to install the wrong ones, hence why it took a few days.
#7
To double check, the one on the right with blue top is incorrect.
Thanks for your help! I’m just doing stem seals since my timing chain isn’t very old. How long do you think this job will take?
besides compressor tool I need the timing lockout tool set and a bleed down adapter to use compressed air on valves, any other special tools?
Thanks for your help! I’m just doing stem seals since my timing chain isn’t very old. How long do you think this job will take?
besides compressor tool I need the timing lockout tool set and a bleed down adapter to use compressed air on valves, any other special tools?
Trending Topics
#8
To double check, the one on the right with blue top is incorrect. Thanks for your help! I’m just doing stem seals since my timing chain isn’t very old. How long do you think this job will take? besides compressor tool I need the timing lockout tool set and a bleed down adapter to use compressed air on valves, any other special tools?
Last edited by mildensteve; 09-06-2020 at 07:16 AM. Reason: spelling
#9
I thought I would chime in on the topic since I just yesterday finished up this job on my N14. I did use the Schwaben valve spring compressor from ECS tuning shown in post #1, but it needed to be modified extensively to work on the Mini.
What I did was build a frame that bolted to the valve cover mounting bolts. For the cross piece, I used a piece of aluminum T-slot rail which allowed me to slide the pivot bracket in front of each valve with minimal setup time. After seeing what mildensteve successfully used, his setup is much simpler and cheaper and I probably would have gone that way had I known it would work. One significant benefit of the setup I used is that I made a clamp that held the valve spring in the compressed position hands-free which allows two free hands to remove/install the valve spring keepers. I don't know if the ebay kit has that feature.
Here's a pic of the frame I built.
Videos of the compressor in action are attached.
My old seals were in terrible condition.
The one on the left is the OE seal with 126k miles on it. The orange one on the right is the new Fel-Pro seal.
I agree with all of mildensteve's advice. The only suggestion I would add is maybe start with cylinders 2 and 3 first, then move on to 1 and 4. Reason being there is VERY little working room on the outermost valves on cyls 1 and 4. Cyls 2 and 3 allow a little more working space to get the hang of things.
What I did was build a frame that bolted to the valve cover mounting bolts. For the cross piece, I used a piece of aluminum T-slot rail which allowed me to slide the pivot bracket in front of each valve with minimal setup time. After seeing what mildensteve successfully used, his setup is much simpler and cheaper and I probably would have gone that way had I known it would work. One significant benefit of the setup I used is that I made a clamp that held the valve spring in the compressed position hands-free which allows two free hands to remove/install the valve spring keepers. I don't know if the ebay kit has that feature.
Here's a pic of the frame I built.
Videos of the compressor in action are attached.
My old seals were in terrible condition.
The one on the left is the OE seal with 126k miles on it. The orange one on the right is the new Fel-Pro seal.
I agree with all of mildensteve's advice. The only suggestion I would add is maybe start with cylinders 2 and 3 first, then move on to 1 and 4. Reason being there is VERY little working room on the outermost valves on cyls 1 and 4. Cyls 2 and 3 allow a little more working space to get the hang of things.
#10
#11
#12
#14
#15
second only to realoem https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/select
#16
#17
#19
Oh, and just thought of something... since you are using the air pressure method be sure you have the flywheel locked otherwise you will spin the crank
#20
#21
No idea what the special tool does, maybe someone with better knowledge can chime in. Yes, loosen a little at a time AFTER releasing the rotational tension. At least that is how I did it.
#22