R56 Catch can hook-up
#1
#3
You slike aeem to have good information. Can you assist me to figure this out. Here's what happened.
I got everything ready for the first start so I could run the engine in for 30 minutes, change oil and filter and finally drive the thing.
I checked and re-checked all connections, electrical and mechanical. I started the engine and if didn't actually roar to life. It ran kind of wimpy and it made a noise like a dry bearing. I listened everywhere but the engine is so noisy it's hard to pinpoint any area specifically.
The A/C guy dropped by to recharge the system and we both listened. The noise wasn't coming from any of the periperals - alternator or compressor. but it did sound like it was coming from the exhaust. I checked under the car and heard nothing close. It sounded closer to the exhaust manifold. I checked the compression and there was only a small variation in pressure among the 4 cylinders.
I removed the valve cover to see if there was anything I could see - nothing strange.
The cover/gasket are new and its a Mini cover.
Still mifffed. Could it have anyghing to do with the reduction in size of the hoses to the catch cans. The cam sensor seems to be constricted to where it ends up when I tighten the nut holding it in.
The turbo is used pending me breaking the engine in for a bout 1000 miles and then swapping in the rebuilt cartridge.
But the stink and the engine feeling like its in limp mode is baffling.
I ordered a new exhaust gasket just in case.
What do you think?
Thanks as always, DR
I got everything ready for the first start so I could run the engine in for 30 minutes, change oil and filter and finally drive the thing.
I checked and re-checked all connections, electrical and mechanical. I started the engine and if didn't actually roar to life. It ran kind of wimpy and it made a noise like a dry bearing. I listened everywhere but the engine is so noisy it's hard to pinpoint any area specifically.
The A/C guy dropped by to recharge the system and we both listened. The noise wasn't coming from any of the periperals - alternator or compressor. but it did sound like it was coming from the exhaust. I checked under the car and heard nothing close. It sounded closer to the exhaust manifold. I checked the compression and there was only a small variation in pressure among the 4 cylinders.
I removed the valve cover to see if there was anything I could see - nothing strange.
The cover/gasket are new and its a Mini cover.
Still mifffed. Could it have anyghing to do with the reduction in size of the hoses to the catch cans. The cam sensor seems to be constricted to where it ends up when I tighten the nut holding it in.
The turbo is used pending me breaking the engine in for a bout 1000 miles and then swapping in the rebuilt cartridge.
But the stink and the engine feeling like its in limp mode is baffling.
I ordered a new exhaust gasket just in case.
What do you think?
Thanks as always, DR
#4
Pretty sure good OCC hoses, when connected properly, won't cause performance problems.
10 - 15PSI variation in compression can be considered acceptable IF the actuals are around 150 or more. Have you checked for crankcase pressure? Supposed to be negative. What kind of intake manifold vacuum are you reading at idle? 15 - 20 in-Hg for N14, and 5 - 10 in-Hg for N18 (I think).
If engine noise seems to be coming from exhaust, and turbo is "used", I suggest not waiting 'til break-in is finished but change the CHRA right away. Noises can be coming from there --- shot bearings or wheel rubbing housing. Check for cracked manifold and turbine housing "while you're in there". Is there oil in the compressor housing? If so, could be bad turbo seal / bearings or excess crankcase pressure or shot PCV (valve cover).
"Engine running poorly" and "ran kind of wimpy" is pretty vague. If this is a complete rebuild, my first guess would be a timing issue (where I have the most problems). Especially if there's no codes. Do you have access to the newtis.info procedure for checking valve timing with a feeler gauge and timing tool set? Head rebuild, with new valves, can also be an issue. An "in-experienced with Mini's" shop might leave new valve stems too long, causing slight valve / piston contact. Then valve lifters might need more time to get good oil flow and build pressure. Poor valve seating all around would cause low compression and still have small variations.
When you're ready for break-in, consider this attached procedure. Referred to me by a good friend with a 300+WHP N14. I've used it with good results.
I've seen your posts on FB and elsewhere but haven't been following close enough to remember what's been done and who did it. And as you probably know by now, fault-finding isn't easy online. I'm happy to help but my experience and knowledge is limited. Maybe contact me via PM then email?
10 - 15PSI variation in compression can be considered acceptable IF the actuals are around 150 or more. Have you checked for crankcase pressure? Supposed to be negative. What kind of intake manifold vacuum are you reading at idle? 15 - 20 in-Hg for N14, and 5 - 10 in-Hg for N18 (I think).
If engine noise seems to be coming from exhaust, and turbo is "used", I suggest not waiting 'til break-in is finished but change the CHRA right away. Noises can be coming from there --- shot bearings or wheel rubbing housing. Check for cracked manifold and turbine housing "while you're in there". Is there oil in the compressor housing? If so, could be bad turbo seal / bearings or excess crankcase pressure or shot PCV (valve cover).
"Engine running poorly" and "ran kind of wimpy" is pretty vague. If this is a complete rebuild, my first guess would be a timing issue (where I have the most problems). Especially if there's no codes. Do you have access to the newtis.info procedure for checking valve timing with a feeler gauge and timing tool set? Head rebuild, with new valves, can also be an issue. An "in-experienced with Mini's" shop might leave new valve stems too long, causing slight valve / piston contact. Then valve lifters might need more time to get good oil flow and build pressure. Poor valve seating all around would cause low compression and still have small variations.
When you're ready for break-in, consider this attached procedure. Referred to me by a good friend with a 300+WHP N14. I've used it with good results.
I've seen your posts on FB and elsewhere but haven't been following close enough to remember what's been done and who did it. And as you probably know by now, fault-finding isn't easy online. I'm happy to help but my experience and knowledge is limited. Maybe contact me via PM then email?
#5
I will print this out and make some comments. I fully rebuilt the engine. i had JM turbocoopers upgrade my KO4 turbo and am using an older KO3 for breakin. I will remove the intake and look into the turbo to see if there is oil. I have the new cartridge and could install it anytime. I really wanted to make sure there was no crap in the oil lines that might get into the shaft.
How do I contact you? Through the forum?
How do I contact you? Through the forum?
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