R56 Special Tool: Removing Water Pump/Main belt
#1
Special Tool: Removing Water Pump/Main belt
I was checking my Bentleys because when I watch the videos of replacing the water pump and main belt there is a reference to a second way of using a special tool from MINI. My Bentleys manual doesn't discuss the process with this special tool at all. Are there videos that describe this alternative process of water pump removal or do I really need this special tool?
#2
#3
#4
Is this so you don't have to remove the headlight and Hood support or something? I can see the gigantic nut that needs to be turned to put the tensioner in the service position....
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RockyR (03-25-2022)
#5
I just went through this - from what I can tell there are two nut sizes for the tensioner and thats why when you buy the special tool online you get TWO long tools that are essentially custom bent thin box wrenches.
I was able to put a 30MM box wrench on the nut, from the TOP and move it enough to remove the belt off the alternator pully thru the wheelwell with the fender liner removed. - I could not move it enough to get the pin engaged.
There was a minimal amount of swing. I did not have the top bracket or charge hose removed which would make this easier and allow more room from up top.
Once I got the belt off, I used a bottle jack and an extension to jack on the bottom of the adjustment pully enough to get the pin in place and set the pin.
I did my repair which was a front oil seal.
THEN, making sure the belt was in the grooves, I used the butt of a hammer and pushed slightly up on the tensioner from the bottom and the pin sprung loose and everything went back into place.
I was able to put a 30MM box wrench on the nut, from the TOP and move it enough to remove the belt off the alternator pully thru the wheelwell with the fender liner removed. - I could not move it enough to get the pin engaged.
There was a minimal amount of swing. I did not have the top bracket or charge hose removed which would make this easier and allow more room from up top.
Once I got the belt off, I used a bottle jack and an extension to jack on the bottom of the adjustment pully enough to get the pin in place and set the pin.
I did my repair which was a front oil seal.
THEN, making sure the belt was in the grooves, I used the butt of a hammer and pushed slightly up on the tensioner from the bottom and the pin sprung loose and everything went back into place.
#6
I just went through this - from what I can tell there are two nut sizes for the tensioner and thats why when you buy the special tool online you get TWO long tools that are essentially custom bent thin box wrenches.
I was able to put a 30MM box wrench on the nut, from the TOP and move it enough to remove the belt off the alternator pully thru the wheelwell with the fender liner removed. - I could not move it enough to get the pin engaged.
There was a minimal amount of swing. I did not have the top bracket or charge hose removed which would make this easier and allow more room from up top.
Once I got the belt off, I used a bottle jack and an extension to jack on the bottom of the adjustment pully enough to get the pin in place and set the pin.
I did my repair which was a front oil seal.
THEN, making sure the belt was in the grooves, I used the butt of a hammer and pushed slightly up on the tensioner from the bottom and the pin sprung loose and everything went back into place.
I was able to put a 30MM box wrench on the nut, from the TOP and move it enough to remove the belt off the alternator pully thru the wheelwell with the fender liner removed. - I could not move it enough to get the pin engaged.
There was a minimal amount of swing. I did not have the top bracket or charge hose removed which would make this easier and allow more room from up top.
Once I got the belt off, I used a bottle jack and an extension to jack on the bottom of the adjustment pully enough to get the pin in place and set the pin.
I did my repair which was a front oil seal.
THEN, making sure the belt was in the grooves, I used the butt of a hammer and pushed slightly up on the tensioner from the bottom and the pin sprung loose and everything went back into place.
Was the problem movement only? How much force does it take to move the nut?
I am thinking I am going to try this?
30mm Jumbo Crowfoot Wrench CRV
With a socket extension, I believe I can have the socket handle right at the A/C inlet which I can disconnect and temporarily move. This would allow me to have the socket handle at 45degrees and allow me to swing it forward almost a full 120 degrees or so. It cost $10 and it would allow me to do everything from the top as a "one person".
It might slip off if it takes a lot of force but with my left hand, I can hold the wrench against that big nut.
#7
I was checking my Bentleys because when I watch the videos of replacing the water pump and main belt there is a reference to a second way of using a special tool from MINI. My Bentleys manual doesn't discuss the process with this special tool at all. Are there videos that describe this alternative process of water pump removal or do I really need this special tool?
FCP Euro has an amazing video on YouTube on replacing the R56 timing Chains for 2007-2010 years. It shows how to remove that Serpentine belt, with the special tool, along with removing the engine frames and everything else to get to the water pump.
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#8
Why buy an expensive, not very robust, non-standard "special tool", when the job can be done with a standardized wrench of regular (i.e. higher) strength and lower price?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4511904
PS/Edit: N12 and N14 engines require a 21mm wrench, N16 and N18 engines a 30mm wrench (or the respective, equivalent inch size).
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4511904
PS/Edit: N12 and N14 engines require a 21mm wrench, N16 and N18 engines a 30mm wrench (or the respective, equivalent inch size).
Last edited by giorgos; 04-05-2022 at 02:19 PM.
#9
Why buy an expensive, not very robust, non-standard "special tool", when the job can be done with a standardized wrench of regular (i.e. higher) strength and lower price?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4511904
PS/Edit: N12 and N14 engines require a 21mm wrench, N16 and N18 engines a 30mm wrench (or the respective, equivalent inch size).
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4511904
PS/Edit: N12 and N14 engines require a 21mm wrench, N16 and N18 engines a 30mm wrench (or the respective, equivalent inch size).
#11
Why buy an expensive, not very robust, non-standard "special tool", when the job can be done with a standardized wrench of regular (i.e. higher) strength and lower price?
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4511904
PS/Edit: N12 and N14 engines require a 21mm wrench, N16 and N18 engines a 30mm wrench (or the respective, equivalent inch size).
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4511904
PS/Edit: N12 and N14 engines require a 21mm wrench, N16 and N18 engines a 30mm wrench (or the respective, equivalent inch size).
#13
third owner so I honestly don’t know. From what I can see and have been finding on mine, it appears everything was replaced at least once with newer oem parts. Water pump had metal blades, thermostat already was newer design, that stupid tensioner being 30mm, oil return off turbo already SS line. The 2 previous owners loved this car, all maintenance was done at a mini dealership, minus a few oil changes.
#14
You're comparing apples to oranges.
https://www.amazon.com/GEDORE-4-17X1...st_sto_dp&th=1
(This tool is made in Germany by one of the leading manufacturers and supplier to professionals).
https://www.amazon.com/GEDORE-4-17X1...st_sto_dp&th=1
(This tool is made in Germany by one of the leading manufacturers and supplier to professionals).
We'll see. If it doesn't work then I'll have to go your way.
#15
that tool is $23 from Amazon. The only way it will work is access via the bottom. By purchasing the Crow-wrench, I believe I can access it from the top because I can use an extension to offset it, the same place where you lock it. Also, it only cost $10.
We'll see. If it doesn't work then I'll have to go your way.
We'll see. If it doesn't work then I'll have to go your way.
PS.: My posts above were both meant to be replies to 302Vernon, NOT your suggestion of a crow-wrench. Apologies for not making that clear.
#16
I'm curious whether a crow-wrench will work. Applying the tool from above is less of a problem than having the space to turn it enough in order to engage the lock. It being a "6-point" (instead of a "12-point" design) may be the problem.
PS.: My posts above were both meant to be replies to 302Vernon, NOT your suggestion of a crow-wrench. Apologies for not making that clear.
PS.: My posts above were both meant to be replies to 302Vernon, NOT your suggestion of a crow-wrench. Apologies for not making that clear.
#19
I'm curious whether a crow-wrench will work. Applying the tool from above is less of a problem than having the space to turn it enough in order to engage the lock. It being a "6-point" (instead of a "12-point" design) may be the problem.
PS.: My posts above were both meant to be replies to 302Vernon, NOT your suggestion of a crow-wrench. Apologies for not making that clear.
PS.: My posts above were both meant to be replies to 302Vernon, NOT your suggestion of a crow-wrench. Apologies for not making that clear.
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