R56 Clutch pedal stop pointless because of clutch switch
#1
Clutch pedal stop pointless because of clutch switch
Installed a pedal stop because I hate a clutch that catches high off of the floor.
learned that clutch switch isn’t adjustable so I jumped it with a momentary switch that I press to start the car. This was cool because cruise control still worked but my clutch engagement point was where I wanted it.
Drove a few miles then car threw a code 2FC1 for clutch pedal switch.
Tried just soldering the switch wires together to see if that would prevent the code and same code came up after 5 or so miles of driving again.
First car I’ve had that I can’t adjust the clutch catch point on and it’s super annoying.
what triggers this 2FC1 code? Maybe I can find a way to give the ECU what it wants to see if I know exactly what it’s looking for and when. Seems like the car checks for the clutch switch signal periodically. Maybe when it’s taking off from a stop, who knows. If I know what the ecu is thinking then I can come up with a way to make this work.
Also asked a few tuners if they can tune this out and they said nobody else has reported this issue. Leave it to me to be the guy. Really just want my catch point to be low and to not have a warning light. Someone else has definitely found a workaround!
Edit... OK this writeup includes more information, it seems what's going on is I cut the 12v supply to the clutch switch and the clutch signal wire, when I should have cut just the clutch signal wire then spliced it into the 12v supply while keeping that attached to the switch. Going to try this, and will put my switch in line with the clutch signal wire so I have the option of turning ignition on without starting the car. Will report back.
Writeup I referenced: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...#post-12181671
learned that clutch switch isn’t adjustable so I jumped it with a momentary switch that I press to start the car. This was cool because cruise control still worked but my clutch engagement point was where I wanted it.
Drove a few miles then car threw a code 2FC1 for clutch pedal switch.
Tried just soldering the switch wires together to see if that would prevent the code and same code came up after 5 or so miles of driving again.
First car I’ve had that I can’t adjust the clutch catch point on and it’s super annoying.
what triggers this 2FC1 code? Maybe I can find a way to give the ECU what it wants to see if I know exactly what it’s looking for and when. Seems like the car checks for the clutch switch signal periodically. Maybe when it’s taking off from a stop, who knows. If I know what the ecu is thinking then I can come up with a way to make this work.
Also asked a few tuners if they can tune this out and they said nobody else has reported this issue. Leave it to me to be the guy. Really just want my catch point to be low and to not have a warning light. Someone else has definitely found a workaround!
Edit... OK this writeup includes more information, it seems what's going on is I cut the 12v supply to the clutch switch and the clutch signal wire, when I should have cut just the clutch signal wire then spliced it into the 12v supply while keeping that attached to the switch. Going to try this, and will put my switch in line with the clutch signal wire so I have the option of turning ignition on without starting the car. Will report back.
Writeup I referenced: https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...#post-12181671
Last edited by yosip1115; 07-11-2022 at 12:19 PM.
#2
Update
This worked, I made the mistake of thinking the master cylinder switch was just a double throw double pole magnetic switch.
Correct way to bypass clutch switch:
Tee off of 12v
Cut clutch signal wire at the switch (leave yourself an inch just in case)
Install a toggle switch between the clutch signal wire and the 12v wire that you created by teeing
Refer to the link I posted to get wire colors. For me 12v was purple and clutch signal was blue I believe.
That way you can still turn ignition on without starting car for diagnostic purposes by toggling your switch to off. Also doubles as an antitheft immobilizer.
This worked, I made the mistake of thinking the master cylinder switch was just a double throw double pole magnetic switch.
Correct way to bypass clutch switch:
Tee off of 12v
Cut clutch signal wire at the switch (leave yourself an inch just in case)
Install a toggle switch between the clutch signal wire and the 12v wire that you created by teeing
Refer to the link I posted to get wire colors. For me 12v was purple and clutch signal was blue I believe.
That way you can still turn ignition on without starting car for diagnostic purposes by toggling your switch to off. Also doubles as an antitheft immobilizer.
The following users liked this post:
Northern (07-15-2022)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post