R56 My Quest for a Trans Service
#1
My Quest for a Trans Service
Finding impediments to fill plug and pan removal, I almost gave up.
I want to acknowledge some members for their tips that made it possible.
They are:
Clutchless, Lex2008, mbwicz, MiniToBe and Swndug [sun:dʌk] GARAGE on YouTube.
I started with the T27 above the sub-frame. If I could not get past that challenge, no filter change.
I found a video of a Tech going thru the job and saw the key was dropping the lower motor mount.
This way, you can put a small jack under the trans and lift it to access the bolt.
But we all know you don’t open the drain unless you can open the fill port.
I asked my neighbor if he had a T55, which he did not. I was telling him how difficult they made it. I told him Dr. Strangelove designed the car. He laughed. “ve tolt you it ist lifetime fluid und ve meant it!”
I bought a T55 ½” drive and tried to see if I could get it on the top plug, but no, because of it’s location, the ½” is too fat.
I went to the fill port on top of the differential, and it was barely enough room to put it on, and used a 10mm wrench on the collar. Well, I could not budge it. I asked another buddy if he had a T55 3/8” and he said “those are a popular item. How long you need it for?” I went to two Home Depot’s before I had one in hand.
After this, two tips showed me how to do it successfully:
1. SKU 67011 at Harbor Freight; ¼, 3/8 and 1/2" inch Square Drive Socket Caps
2. Push the engine (pan) forward
I pushed the pan forward and wedged the diff. The gave added room to put the T55 on the bolt.
I was able to then use a 19mm to turn the bolt. I actually had to use a pry bar. It let loose. It has a rubber ring at the top, hence the force needed. After that, I could turn the bit with my fingers and the fill plug was out!.
I got 2 quarts out after the trans, pan and standpipe drain plugs were out.
You guys who are taking the pan off, be careful lowering it. My pan had a quart of fluid in it, plus there will be a small quantity out of the filter when it is removed.
I had replaced the standpipe before I took the pan off.
I got a total of 3 quarts out. It was low because I was one of those who thought I was draining the oil.
I put it back via the 14mm plug on the end of the trans, but it was a sloppy job, and I lost some.
Btw – if you have problems with starting the corner bolt, you can gain more access if you take the driver side wheel and fender liner off.
I went ahead and did the job, using my Motive Power Brake Bleeder unit.
It only holds about 2-1/2 quarts, but the fills went pretty fast. I didn’t time it. I kept adding fluid until it started to dribble out, so put 4-1/2 quarts in total.
I took it out for a road test including freeway and tried manual mode and sport mode as well.
To quote Ice Road Trucker Hugh Rowland, the shifts were “slicker than snot off a chicken’s lip”
I want to acknowledge some members for their tips that made it possible.
They are:
Clutchless, Lex2008, mbwicz, MiniToBe and Swndug [sun:dʌk] GARAGE on YouTube.
I started with the T27 above the sub-frame. If I could not get past that challenge, no filter change.
I found a video of a Tech going thru the job and saw the key was dropping the lower motor mount.
This way, you can put a small jack under the trans and lift it to access the bolt.
But we all know you don’t open the drain unless you can open the fill port.
I asked my neighbor if he had a T55, which he did not. I was telling him how difficult they made it. I told him Dr. Strangelove designed the car. He laughed. “ve tolt you it ist lifetime fluid und ve meant it!”
I bought a T55 ½” drive and tried to see if I could get it on the top plug, but no, because of it’s location, the ½” is too fat.
I went to the fill port on top of the differential, and it was barely enough room to put it on, and used a 10mm wrench on the collar. Well, I could not budge it. I asked another buddy if he had a T55 3/8” and he said “those are a popular item. How long you need it for?” I went to two Home Depot’s before I had one in hand.
After this, two tips showed me how to do it successfully:
1. SKU 67011 at Harbor Freight; ¼, 3/8 and 1/2" inch Square Drive Socket Caps
2. Push the engine (pan) forward
I pushed the pan forward and wedged the diff. The gave added room to put the T55 on the bolt.
I was able to then use a 19mm to turn the bolt. I actually had to use a pry bar. It let loose. It has a rubber ring at the top, hence the force needed. After that, I could turn the bit with my fingers and the fill plug was out!.
I got 2 quarts out after the trans, pan and standpipe drain plugs were out.
You guys who are taking the pan off, be careful lowering it. My pan had a quart of fluid in it, plus there will be a small quantity out of the filter when it is removed.
I had replaced the standpipe before I took the pan off.
I got a total of 3 quarts out. It was low because I was one of those who thought I was draining the oil.
I put it back via the 14mm plug on the end of the trans, but it was a sloppy job, and I lost some.
Btw – if you have problems with starting the corner bolt, you can gain more access if you take the driver side wheel and fender liner off.
I went ahead and did the job, using my Motive Power Brake Bleeder unit.
It only holds about 2-1/2 quarts, but the fills went pretty fast. I didn’t time it. I kept adding fluid until it started to dribble out, so put 4-1/2 quarts in total.
I took it out for a road test including freeway and tried manual mode and sport mode as well.
To quote Ice Road Trucker Hugh Rowland, the shifts were “slicker than snot off a chicken’s lip”
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condor27596
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
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12-04-2012 11:25 AM