David, I wouldn't say we were arguing about lubricating seals ... only passing on some useful tips and corrections to technical manuals. Some seals do require a lubricant during installation, some don't. PTFE seals are supposed to be installed dry, so it's important to know what type of seal you're dealing with. I wasn't sure what type of seal goes on the transmission input shaft, so that's why I asked the question. Personally, I didn't learn about the front crankshaft hub seal and rear main seal being PTFE seals until I screwed up twice by lubricating my crank hub seal with oil as outlined in the BMW TIS and Bentley service manual (leaked both times). The 3d time was the charm after I installed it dry and let it normalize for 4 hours.

 

Dry on the housing side, pre-lubricating on the shaft surface.

 

Sorry to Bump up an old thread, but none of you guys working on your car have let us know if you were successful in repairing the leak with the tool or not?
1. does the tool fix the issue alone?
or
2. do you need the bushing & tool
or
3. bushing only and no tool just replace the seal by eye/hand?
4. A used transmission worked regardless of seal or bushing replaced?
TIA

 

Good question.

 

Seems like the OP and others have left, as there are no replies, so if anyone else has experienced this or got tips please reply.
I’m about to do a seal on a job I have, I’ll update my findings.

TIA

 

I’m still around but don’t have any advice. I’ve been monitoring my seal and the leak rate is tapering off (I carefully top it off every 2 months). I will pull the engine and replace the seal again if it starts leaking at a higher rate.

 

Is the seal leaking on your car? If not... Leave it alone.

 

I got the whole car as a job that was a non runner with a blown motor, so I wasn’t able to road test the vehicle or transmission for leaks or if it worked I just assumed it was ok, soI proceeded to do the repair and pulled the motor and transmission out of the vehicle as one complete unit.
The engine was split from the transmission leaving the TC in place and not distributed, put aside until the motor was repaired.
The repaired motor was repaired with a new block ( hope this doesn’t effect the alignment) and then bolted back to transmission making sure dowel pins were installed and care taken to blot up the TC to the fly wheel outside of the car and then transferred back into the car as one unit again.
Upon first start the transmission gear engaged into reverse was a bit lazy but I didn’t think anything of it since the transmission was out.
The 1st local road test was fine and then I did I 100kph road test and upon inspection found the transmission leak.
I let the car car cool and parked it for a few days thinking the Shaft seal might need to settle in again and took it for another high speed test, still leaking and not a slow drip so I ordered some genuine seals some to stock up and one to replace the TC seal on the leaking transmission once the parts arrive.
As you all know I need to take the engine and transmission out so I searched on the internet for similarities or post about this and like you guys cannot believe in the whole world this is the only thread and two of you to post about it, so I reached out for any outcomes or tips from you since you guys had this issue.
I don’t really want to do this job again as the motor and transmission have been out already once!
I am hoping that the car already had a leak and this why it was lazy to engage gear assuming the fluid level is a bit low and hopefully changing the seal and topping up to specs will sort tue issue, I did notice the bell house was a bit wet but just assumed to was motor oil, never inspected it or smelt the oil and it’s too late now to investigate due to the motor been out and replace and now leaking at the bell housing.
TIA

 

Wow, ok it had a leak. So sorry to hear that.

Folks have had very bad luck getting new seals to be leak free. Use the tool shown above and say a prayer.

Some say the surface it needs to be dry when putting in the new seal and some say otherwise.

There is long thread on engine removal BTW. See my signature. Although by now you're a pro.

 

Thanks for taking time to reply, Lex... yes i hope the oil leak is fixable and its a one time job! I cant belive the bush cannot be pulled out of the bell housing once the TC seal is removed, it looks like in your Thread removal ( nice wright up !!) pictures looks like it will come out??? i know you say the top housing needs to come off but I'm scratching my head as to why lol!

 

That bush looks like it will come out no?
Also it would be awesome to hear from the OP @Derek Chung how he finished up fixing or giving up?

 

Thats why we are here my bro! To help each other...commiserate at the least.

You mean the metal copper-colored bushing? Derek Chung changed it.

 

Yea the locating bushing, I’m reading in the thread you need to split the transmission to replace it but it looks like it will come out once the seal is removed?
Anyway I’ll know soon enough when I split mine and take the seal out.

 

I dont know but Id think a bushing puller would do the trick...

 

On my '09 Justa rebuild project, I had what appeared to be a transmission leak where a drop of red colored oil would appear at the bottom of the bell housing. I thought it was the transmission seal, but I also has oil drops forming on the bottom of the starter. I added 1 oz of UV dye to my oil and found an oil leak at the eccentric shaft gasket. My vacuum pump was also leaking. Those leaks were combining with a very slight leak from the transmission and they fooled me into thinking it was all transmission fluid.

After fixing the oil leaks, I put 5000 miles on the car; placed a measuring cup under the trans drain plug, and with the engine running & the trans at operating temp, I removed the drain plug; no fluid came out except for a few drops. I added 10 oz of transmission fluid, and exactly 10 ounces came out, indicating the trans was properly serviced. I still see a slight red wetting when I go under the car, but it's not enough to form a drop.

 

thanks for your reply was the motor split from the transmission? I’m specifically looking for or
wanting leaks from replacement of the seal and what has happens after.

 

I just call my R56, "The Leak".

 

Yes. I rebuilt the engine. The torque converter was also removed & reinstalled. I did not change the output shaft seal.

 

Dam, I feel your pain!
I’m about to remove my motor and split and replace the input shaft seal for the TC.
I’ll let you know if it was successful or not!
fingers crossed!

 

Take lots of pics for us!

 

depends on how frustrated I get haha!



Genuine seals

About to start

 

Did you order the thin o rings (12 on parts explosion)?

 

Hey no the seal I’m replacing is the one for the TC input shaft.

I’m halfway almost ready to come out. Then split the transmission from the motor as it’s easier to work on it out of the car body.




It’s much like you guys it only leaks on high speed.

 

Ok so lessen learned!!!
Never take anything for granted!!!
Previous engine swapped with Peugoet engine number I found the TC Hit the transmission housing and has cracked the case!!!
Wrong ring gear fitted!
I’m fitting a second hand transmission and replacing the shaft seal while it’s out !
I’ll let you know how it all goes!
Fingers crossed hopefully the new trans won’t leak!

 

So car is somewhat back together, enough to Road test around the block, so far is not leaking with new transmission and new genuine seal fitted.
For those of you that want to know if changing a seal only and not the damper I’ll let you know tomorrow.
Tomorrow I will Road test high speed and let you know the results.