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R56 Reliability Stage 0/Bulletproofing during Engine Replacement

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  #1  
Old 01-13-2023, 06:43 AM
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Reliability Stage 0/Bulletproofing during Engine Replacement

Hello All

I am having replace the engine on my sister-in-laws 2013 Cooper S Automatic. 76,xxx miles. The timing chain lost tension, pistons hit the valves, piston cracked. I am sourcing a replacement junkyard engine of equal or lower mileage. What work should I perform on the vehicle/new engine to give it the best chance for long term reliability? Are there any aftermarket additions or areas were the aftermarket parts are preferred to OEM?

My current plan is to:
  • Walnut blast intake valves of new engine
  • Install new timing chain, guides, tensioner on new engine
  • Flush all fluids
  • Replace T-stat, housing, & cross over tube
  • Replace crankshaft seals (rear main and pulley side)
  • Oil pump
The goal would be to get another 50k+ miles of care free ownership.

***Edited post to update "To-Do" list. Thank you all for your quick and helpful feedback***
 

Last edited by ProjectT-5R; 01-13-2023 at 10:05 AM.
  #2  
Old 01-13-2023, 07:17 AM
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Good thinking in performing the right tasks PRIOR to installing the new engine! When you start your engine search, be sure to find one with a similar build date as the engine coming out. The car being built in 2013 should have an N18 engine. However, you need to make sure it is from a car built AFTER March 2012. There was a fuel pump change at about that time, and the earlier fuel pump will not work with her car.

The above comment about the year of the engine, here are a couple of my comments on your plan:
- The cold climate manifold is not applicable to the N18 engine, so skip that part
- I would skip the catch can, too. N18 engines are also much better at preventing intake valve deposits. A catch can will also add another maintenance item.
- The high pressure pump on the later cars is much more reliable, so I would also skip that part
- Yes, replace the thermostat and cross over tube. This will be 1000% easier with the engine removed.
- If you'll be doing the timing chain replacement, the crank seal should be replaced
- The wastegate actuator isn't the part that wears out, its the turbo housing where the wastegate actuator passes through. Before placing the engine, check the turbo housing for any wastegate shaft looseness.
- I would check the turbo oil feed line on the new engine for any signs of leaking, and replace if needed
- Give consideration to new engine mount set

That's all I can think of now...
 
  #3  
Old 01-13-2023, 07:22 AM
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I'd seriously consider a new oil pump for the used engine.
 
  #4  
Old 01-13-2023, 04:14 PM
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Man I hate to hear that on a N18. I have read the stories on the N14 and most have said this isn't normally an issue with the N18.

I plan on driving mine for a long time. It is a 2012 Coupe S with 63,000 and some change. I have been watching a couple auto auction sites trying to find a low mileage N18 with manual transmission to have a spare of each for the "long haul".
 
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