Wheel bearings dont bleed lubricant. Check the CV joint. Send pics.

 

CV joint is part of what group of parts?

 

Fluid has leaked down wishbone onto to wheel apparently.
so CV joint as you said.
any special tools required to remove CV joint?
this is drivers side & I did notice passenger side CV joint rubber has a slit in it!

likely CV joint needs new rubber casings or is it best to just replace entire unit?
I will do bearings also had to drill out the screw on bearing face years ago.

 

They are a little bit of a pain with the big clamp. Can be done but you will need the tools

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...xle-boots.html

I found it easier just to do the whole axle, then do a trans flush while you are at it, that way both boots are done and new, but you can do each boot with our kits on its own.

 

Send a pic bro. So we can be sure what it is you're referring to is the actual CV boot.

 

Oil has gathered on wishbone travelled down spilled onto wheel.
but the CV joints rubber seals are dry the shock body tho is not dry?
Rather ha d to get picture

 

The shock body has shown signs of what could be oil for some time?
Where as the under side of CV joint is dry this is wet maybe for some time?

 

can you feel any tears or grease on the two cv joint boots? I dont see any CV joint grease. It flings everywhere if the boot is damaged.

 

No seemed obvious but not, it is oil likely from shock body.
the passenger side tho i did see a hole in CV joint boot.
So I think I now need to lift that side again also get better look.

 

yes one of the pics looked like the shock...thing is the oil from the CV boot flings all around.

Hole in boot...bad. Change that before the joint is damaged from lack of lubrication. If the boot has oil in it just change the boot and add new grease and save $$$$. Ive posted on how to do it on this forum.

Getting the new clamps onto the new boot requires a good quality clamp (dont get cheap ones) and the correct tool for the type of clamp. There are 2 types of clamps. You need some space to use the clap tools on the clamps.

Cheap clamps have caused me much girief over the years. Have extras handy in case you mess one up.

 

A quick inspection CV joint are in better shape than the shock that is leaking.
so if the top of shock is released should I be able to push wishbone down to release the shock?
and or does the body need to be supported during this operation?

from my experience doing Land Rover shocks.

 

oh good. Shock easier than boot but front struts are little annoying to release from knuckle.

Body definitely needs body to be supported.

Check forum for instructions.

 

yep looks like a shock seal. Yep, you can pull the knuckle down if its jacked up on a lift. Then the shock and spring come out together. One main bolt on the knuckle. Hit it with some PB blaster.

 

If its the driver's side (looks like) be careful with the headlight position sensor under the control arm ...Its delicate.

You must change both struts...man I'd do all 4 if youre over 80k miles. Struts are wear items... it amazes me how some people justify runing ancient struts...and ball joints (life and death)!

 

Yes it would be good idea to do all four I was planning to do this next year well!

are any items in the strut assembly that are replaced besides the strut?
I probably will use a hydraulic Jack under the arm if it goes low enough.
since have not done this before on this vehicle it will take a while.the control arms need to be marked to return to same posit. Etc.
& that head light position sensor under a control arm?

 

I used Koni FSDs.

Yes you need to replace the strut mounts for the front struts. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-lemforde...306772749~lem/

You might need new bump stops if the originals are destroyed. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-par...536772786~feb/

Controls arms dont need to be marked ...I think you meant the "tie rod ends". Honestly you should get an alignment after the struts are replaced.

Headlight sensor under the control arm ....looks kinda like this: UNPLUG IT AND REMOVE IT while youre working on the strut. It is easy to break and its bloody expensive.

 

I was wondering what this would do to alignment?
Thnx
didi you get a spring compressor?

 

yes you need 2 spring compessors. Cheap, screw-type works fine.

 

Okay assuming one for each side of spring?

do CV joints need to be S model specific, this is a S model manual shift, I am assuming so anyways.

 

...

 

I am still looking for the headlight sensor arm? I will start this when after parts arrive still working on that.

CV joints will be replaced ordering replacements so I have them on hand.

 

Its under the control arm, driver's side.

dont pay for new joints (axle), just replace the one boot thats torn.

 

For vehicles with
Xenon Light

NA vehicle has standard headlights!

to affix the CV clamps special tool required?

 

Didnt know R56 came with halogen hgeadlights.

yes special tool required. 2 types depending on clamp type.

 

So CV joints generally do not fail I assume just the boot.

could be a crack in one of the other arms have to get another look see.