I get the FRM going out is a bit of a "common" problem but I am an analyst by trade and problems that crop up after doing a bunch of work are almost always related to said work being done. Usually totally unrelated problems don't just crop up but in this case I am lost.

2011 Mini Base Hatch. I recently did quite a bit of work including replacing my clutch, opening up the gearbox for some inspection as I thought I had some bearing issues (turns out not the case), put it all back together. This took me about 2 weeks as it is not my only vehicle so I had the luxury of taking my time. It was in a garage the entire time. Battery was disconnected the entire time it was the first thing I did and reconnecting it was the last thing I did. Opened the door and I noticed something suspicious that none of the ambient lighting was on and I didn't hear the tone. Started no problem then I realized I had the classic fcm issues. Windows won't roll down, headlights are on but I cannot switch between high and low beam, hazards don't work, backlighting in the instrument doesn't work. Reading lights do work, radio works, side reading lights for the rear whatever you call on either side of the dome do work. HVAC works, etc. I am all but positive it's the FRM.

I have power at the fuse and the fuse is good. I have not yet opened up the side panel and the foot well to pull out and test power at the fcm, though I am pretty sure I'm going to find power there based on my previous findings.

What gets me though, is how this just suddenly cropped up and is not related to the work that I did. I had no indication of failing fcm or anything it's just not working. I don't suppose there is any sort of plug in the engine bay that I could have missed plugging back in that would cause this issue, right? Has anyone else experienced this? I know that I can send it off to a place in the UK but curious if there was somewhere in the US that anyone has used to fix these frm problems. Seems the cheapest option. However it's still just sits very wrong with me that this problem just so happened to come up after I did all of this significant work.

 

@shelzmike ,

Unfortunately it’s all about bad location. Check to see if the drainage from the sunroof is clogged and lastly check the corrosion on the harness going to the FRM(footwell) module.

 

Looks like you probably have to get it reprogrammed..........

 

No sunroof on this one. And no actual damage from water or anything. See below as to what I'm pretty sure the issue is.

You are right. Further investigation yields this being a fairly common issue with one of the top two causes being a low or disconnected battery. Basically the lack of power to the module causes the onboard ship to become corrupted and it needs to be reflashed. The fact that I do still have some lights and that my doors respond to locking but then immediately unlock again and a few other things indicate that the module is in sort of a limp mode or emergency mode. Which is another sign that this is the problem. While it's not a good reason I guess my lack of understanding what happened is now gone it does make sense I guess. Now I just need to find a reputable place in the US that does the reflash. There are several that come up.

Thanks for the responses.

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What state are you in.....

 

I am in Virginia.

 

There is a recall on the footwell module. Not sure if your model/year is covered. Call your local dealer and see if you can get them to replace the module.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...k-of-fire.html

Recall info linked if you are covered. ^^ Dealer can check the Vin if covered.

 

Recall is 10 years and 154k miles (close to it). I have a 2011, so over on years, under on miles. To be honest, this is just glitchy software, it seems and I sent it to a reputable guy someone close to me to reset it. Was $60. If that is all it takes, I'll gladly pay $60 to not have to deal with scheduling, travelling, waiting, etc. of a dealer...even for a "free" replacement. Life is a balance Good info for others though.

EDIT: It is 10 year AND 154k miles warranty not either or. Wanted to clarify.

 

Try the reset first then and see how it goes.

 

Are you sure about that? This isn't a warranty issue, this is a safety issue (fire hazard). There is no time and/or mileage limitation on an identified safety issue.

 

I suppose to clarify, this is not a recall, but a warranty extension so it wouldn't fall under recall legalities. Makes sense as not all FRM's break in this way.

Here is a link to the actual bulletin.

https://bimmerscan.com/wp-content/up.../M010616-1.pdf

 

So let me reiterate. What you linked above is a warranty. That was a goodwill effort on the part of MINI to address a known issue, but falls short of a safety recall. They provided that extended warranty on the footwell module of their own free will and because they knew there was an issue. Note that document is dated August 2018.

In July of 2023 MINI issued a recall on the footwell module for certain models. If your year/model MINI is covered by the recall there is no time or mileage limitation. MINI is supposed to replace it for free. Now the recall notice states that a remedy is not currently available and that owners will be notified once a remedy is available. I'm reading between the lines here, but what that means to me is that they don't have enough replacement footwell modules yet to replace all that they think need to be replaced. If your vehicle is covered by the recall, and you contact MINI with verifiable footwell module issues, MINI will replace it.

Call your local MINI dealer.

I will shut up now.

 

+1 I have had the dealer approve goodwill on big projects. Convertible top replacement, rust...etc

I happens but its up to the dealership if they want to do it.

 

So I looked more into it and you are correct. There is, in addition to what I was referring to, a recall but it is specific to certain states. The general synopsis is as follows:So, being in Virginia, I technically qualify for this. However, when I pull a recall notice for my VIN, it shows nothing. So I called my "local" MINI dealer which really isn't "local" at all. I am pretty rural and closest is about 3 hours from here. They said, yeah technically, but there has to be some evidence of actual corrosion or salt-related damage. I have none of that.

Sure, I could push the issue, but here is why I won't.

1.) Local isn't exactly local for me.
2.) I am 100% positive the reason my FRM was non-functional had 0 to do with water damage, corrosion, etc. It was literally because the battery was disconnected for 2 weeks and the module became corrupted. A VERY well known issue with these.
3.) I paid $60 and waited 4 days to have it fixed. Contacting the dealer, getting it there, all my time, etc. is far more costly than $60.

I am just simply not one of those "just because the dealer has to do it for free" types of people. There is a balance here. IF my issue was related to what the recall was for and was a potential fire or safety issue, then sure, maybe. However, for this, that is just not the case and I am not going to go through all the trouble just to effectively save $60. Sure, I know the dealer labor and part is far more than $60, but I don't look at the value of the repair at that cost. Perhaps others with more time on their hands can go the dealer replacement route "just because" but I am just not a person who does that. I can't honesty think of any good reason why simply having someone repair it, which literally takes 5 minutes to do (but takes a few days due to shipping and turn-around) is in any way a bad option.

Good info and discussion for others potentially, though.

 

"...sent it to a reputable guy someone close to me to reset it. Was $60."

Can you share contact info for this reputable guy? $60 seems reasonable. Maybe he wants some extra business?

I'm really worried about disconnecting my battery.

 

I’m having the same issue now where in VA for $60?

 

Just experienced this issue with my "new" 2011 now. I looked into that recall and as shelzmike noted, I too didn't have a recall on my car. I just sent it to a dependent shop for the refresh. This "disconnecting the battery" thing is pretty stupid, tho.

 

Luckily, I have so far dodged the FRM issue. But, to reduce the chances of having the issue, I made a DIY memory saver for battery replacements. And when I absolutely must disconnect the negative battery cable, I first remove the four FRM fuses.

 

@Maybe, maybe not ,

So, removing the fuses for FRM eliminates the corruption when it comes to disconnecting the negative cable? That’s good to know.

 

That's a good idea. Thank you.

 

While researching common Mini Cooper FRM issues, I read the following in the comment section of a YouTube video discussing the NHTSA FRM recall...

"I have had to have mine [FRM] reprogrammed at least six times you must disconnect the footwell anytime you get a jump or remove your battery or disconnect your battery. Either that or pull the four fuses in the passenger compartment that relate to the footwell module."

After reading this^ comment, I have adopted the procedure below when I absolutely must disconnect my Mini Cooper battery:

Battery disconnection:Battery reconnection is reverse order:Procedure for battery replacement or full disconnection of battery:DIY memory saver:

 

This is powering the ECU through the OBD port? Didn’t know that was possible. Thanks for the guidance.

 

Correct. You can buy a male OBDII connector with all 16 pins but no wires attached to the pins for ~$10. This allows you to solder one wire to OBDII power connector pin 16 (power) and one wire to OBDII ground connector pins 4 and 5. I also soldered a diode (1N5400) into the power wire as extra protection for the AC adapter from the slightly higher voltage of the car battery.