This is my first time posting in this forum, but I’ve been reading plenty of previous posts trying to help me solve the multiple problems my Mini (R56 2010 N18 Engine) has, which has left me more confused on what to try next.

This is a long story but hoping someone can advise on what I should do next? I must add I am no expert in car mechanics, but I have been learning and getting more hands on, since the covid lockdown.

During lockdown, I took the time to replace the timing chain, and this was successful except at I never got the rocker cover to seal. Oil was getting into the spark plugs and coil packs. I then learnt that the cover could warp and that it should be replaced. I eventually did this the early part of last year, but I still wasn’t convinced it was sealing successfully, so I tinkered some more, and this is when all my troubles started!... ☹

The small ground wire which attaches to the rocker cover at the rear broke off and the car basically died, warning lights and would not start.

Did some googling and decided the ECU had been fried. Sent the ECU off for repair and it was confirmed to be faulty and was sent back repaired. Plugged ECU back in and the car now started but had multiple fault codes. It idled badly and if I gave it more throttle it seemed like the engine was being flooded.

Ended up going to a local garage that specialist in ECU tuning in the hope they would be able to work out if the ECU was still faulty. Their opinion was that the ECU was good but there was oil wicking up the main wiring loom. They said the wiring loom was connected to all the various parts that were displaying fault codes. He also said the solenoid was causing the wicking.

I’ve finally replaced the wiring loom and the various sensors that had fault codes; both solenoids, knock sensor, oil pressure sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor. Crankshaft and both cam sensors. I’ve also replaced all 4 spark plugs.

The car now seems to be running better and I was down to two fault codes but the engine does stumble/stutter and stalls. One of the faults being the mass air flow sensor which remains a persistent code. Giving it more throttle seems to help keep the engine going. I’ve since cleaned the MAF but this hasn’t helped.

I had hoped that giving the car a couple of drives would improve things, but I now have more fault codes again. These are the following codes I currently have…
2C58 - Charging pressure control, Switch-off as consequence
3429 - Engine-oil pressure sensor, plausibility
2C57 - Charging pressure control, plausibility Pressure too low
2905 - Intake plenum: Suspicion of leaks between exhaust turbocharger and intake valves
2BC1 - Mixture control: Fuel-air mixture too rich
2DA0 - Inlet camshaft: Angle offset with respect to crankshaft outside tolerance
3490 - Map thermostat, activation: Line disconnection
2774 - Air mass, plausibility: Air mass too high
3782 - Refrigerant pump, electrical: Line disconnection

I’ve ordered a new MAF but I’m running out of ideas and don’t want to change more parts unnecessarily. If the MAF doesn’t help what do I look at next? Please help I really want to get my Mini working again after a year off the road!

 

Do ALL listed fault codes return after clearing them?
Are ALL engine oil leaks now fixed?
Are the connectors for the oil pressure sensor and MAP thermostat still contaminated with oil?
Have you double checked the camshaft and crankshaft timing by reinstalling the special tools? If the timing is perfect, you may need to delete the camshaft timing adaptations.

Regarding turbo code 2C57, check these items:


Regarding turbo code 2905, check these items:

 

Thanks for your reply. Since I finished putting the car back together after replacing the whole wiring loom and the various sensors I mentioned above, I was down to just the 1 or two fault codes to do with the MAF.
Since I've tried driving it on a couple of trips I've been getting various different fault codes appear and then disappear, but the current ones I've listed seem to be sticking around now. The car is clearly running in limp mode as no power when accelerating. Seems to idle fairly nicely now, but every couple of mins it either stalls or gets close to a stall and recovers itself. Not 100% sure but I think it stalls more often when the engine hasn't warmed up enough.

With regards to the oil leaks I'm not 100% sure. The underneath of the car seems to have a pretty good covering of oil on it still, so hard to tell. I guess I could put some cardboard underneath it and see If I'm still getting some drips?

I've replaced and the oil pressure sensor and the whole wiring loom so shouldn't be any more oil on either of those. I'm awaiting the arrival of a new MAF sensor but have cleaned the current one.

I haven't rechecked the timing but I did all the timing chain 4 years ago. Didn't really want to open the rocker cover up again and disturb it as its such a git to reseal. but I guess I could give it ago. :(

Will go through the checks above and report back. I think the MAF is due to arrive tomorrow/Saturday so I will report back if that helps in anyway.

I read that the ECU can take a few journeys to learn the parameters of the car again, but I think I'm beyond that being a solution, as the car is running in limp mode?

 

Given numerous oil-related issues, you may benefit by cleaning all old surface oil from the engine, which may help to reveal underlying causes for the current problems.

Code 2DA0 could potentially indicate a mechanical camshaft timing issue or an electrical problem with the inlet camshaft sensor. You should consider both.

 

You need to get the car professionally cleaned underneath and throughout the engine bay if you are unable to do it, so you can try to pinpoint if and where there is a leak. Rather than it being "hard to tell". We have a spot over here that steam cleans the engine bay. When I worked in a shop, we would recommend customers there all the time so we had a clean plate to work with.
With the oil pressure, when was the last time you changed the oil? The last time you checked it? Sounds like it was leaking a lot if it was in your spark plugs, all over your wiring looms, and again, all over underneath.
For the turbo stuff, double check all of the hose connections, vacuum connections, and make sure they are on square and tight. Also double checking all your connections underneath the intake manifold and what not.

I would do all of this, put your new MAF on, and clear all the codes and see what comes back. Then we can go from there.

 

I have access to a car pit at my wife's nan's house so I might get it there and give it good clean myself underneath.

I've checked the oil level and its seems full. I can't remember but I probably topped it up before I took it off the road last year. I'll check my log book to see when I last did an oil change.

I think double checking all the plugs and hose connections is a wise idea. Just depressing after all the work to strip it down and put it back together again to strip it down again. :(

All this will take me a few weeks to complete as only get chance to work on the car in the evening in the garage as times at the weekend are filled entertaining two small children and renovating my new house. I don't make things easy for myself But I do enjoy working on the car in the evening though!

Will report back as soon as possible.

Thanks again both for your help.

 

I hear that, a couple years ago, my timing and clutch went out at the same time. Did all the work, put it back together and ran it for about 4 months before the crank bolt slipped and bent the exhaust valves. Had to tear it all down and apart again to have the cylinder head rebuilt. I know exactly how you feel lol. Keep us posted.