Another thought that comes to mind-manufacturers are keen to increase reliability and longevity. If they do it better, it's a competitive advantage. So they may not really want every secret behind how they get better reliability to be released. So getting a photo or a spec of the drum of oil, and its exact specifications, might not be real easy...

But I've seen enough warnings not to run synthetic too early, been taught from my shop teacher and different machine shops about break-in, and tend to pay enough attention that I'd want to do it right, that I think there must be something behind wanting things to bed in, and allow enough wear in the very early life of a motor.

 

This is a motorcycle motor manufacturer, but it discusses some of what happens during breakin if anyone is curious. Thought it was kinda interesting, and had more details.
http://www.steelthundercc.com/enginebreakin.html

 

Ryephile,
Since you've already made an oil change at 400 miles, would it be possible to tell if your rings have a good seat by doing a compression test?

 

IF you read the previous MC2 magazine about engine assembly at the Hams Hall plant, they do not test run all engines. They cold test at low RPM every engine, then (I don't remember how often) every so many engines are hot run, then a couple a week are torture tested and disassembled. I wouldn't assume that this break in, particularly a cold run (just turning it with no power output) would suffice for a break in. I"ll be changing the oil at the 1250 run in, and every 5000 thereafter. They made no mention of flushing the test oil out.

Fortunately for me, I have an MC, and looking at the enigne pictures, the oil filter is extremely easy to get at and should be a breeze for a DIY oil change.

 

Anybody ever used AMSOIL?

 

An S&S big V-twin is about as crude a motor as you'll ever see. They are NOT known for their high mileage.

The only similarity between a MC motor and an S&S lump is the fact that they're both internal combustion. There ends the similarity.

ALL Mini's ship with synthetic oil. There are a number of high end manufacturers that ship their cars with synthetic: Porsche, Corvette, Viper, and so on.

All of my vehicles get synthetic at their first change. All the way from a 16,000 rpm, inline 4 down to a lowly V-twin in my lawn tractor.

Put in whatever oil makes YOU feel warm/fuzzy.

 

I know that somewhere on here there was discussion about a company that tests your oil for you after you change it.. they send you a kit... I lost the link, wondering if anyone knows of it?

J

 

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

gratzi

 

yep, me too. in 2002 i stopped off at a "jiffy screwed" for an oil change on a 2002 Subaru Forster. as the tech/oil change guy closed my hood he drop it so hard he cracked my bug deflector. i am standing in the glass enclosed customer area watching this MAD HATTER ACT take place. he looks around to see if anyone noticed then proceeded to park my car in the lot, hand off the paperwork, and start work on the next car.
being a car enthusiast i knew i had to be very careful to ensure what was in my mind did not cross my lips when talking to he's manager. "jiffy screwed" paid for the repairs and learned me some life lessons..........

1) pay the few extra dollars for an oil change from the dealer

2) i can control myself in a pressed situation regardless of what my 3rd grade teacher said about me years ago

3) a car "is" just a car. well i'm still working on this one

 

A major problem with Jiffy Lube and other such oil change places, besides the fact that they hire people who they have to teach where the hood release is, is that they put speed above all else. Thus, they put the oil drain plug in while the oil is still steaming out, leaving dirty oil in the pan.

 

When you're doing an oil change on an MCS, how big of a deal is it to get the oil filter out and back in? I've read of having to move the turbo vent tube or something, but is that a big thing?

 

A car is just a car.... is like saying you have sex only to have children. Whatever. We don't have to agree with that one.

 

lol.....i think you missed my point. the whole shaking of the head thing ( ) is me not agreeing with the phrase......."a car is just a car"

 

No... I am saying, you nor I have to work on that one. We know car is not just a car.

 

Possibly; but honestly I have no plans on doing that or a leakdown test until it's time to pull the internals out of the engine

 

This is my first Mini so my first time changing a cartridge-type filter. I followed Ryephile's lead, but didn't need to move the turbo inlet hose, just the coolant tank (see pic). I used a 1 1/16" shallow socket and two short extensions. I was also able make a long extension and swivel joint work.

The vertical drain plug is a PIA. Ryephile's not kidding. I got oil all over my tools and I can usually keep them totally dry with a standard drain plug. Wearing gloves really helps you keep clean!

-JL

 

Thanks for posting your impressions and pictures jlevy! Good to hear only the coolant tank needs to be moved; I'll remember that for next time. I hope you cleaned up your tools after getting hosed down in the dirty oil, LOL! I'd love to meet [and yell at] the person that designed that drain plug, sheesh.

 

What is involved in moving the coolant tank? How is it released from its bonds? Don't have one to look at (still in England) so I am curious.

From the photo of the oil filter it looks like there are lots of little sparkly bits of metal on the filter? Is that right? What is your assessment of how clogged it was? Would it have been good for the full time to factory service?

 

There's just one 10mm head screw and the coolant tank lifts out of place. Be sure to keep the two coolant lines hooked up or you'll have a mess!

The dirty oil filter is probably showing the paper fibers; when I removed my oil it looked reasonably clean; like it only had a few thousand on it [instead of the 400 it actually had on it]. There were no visible metal bits whatsoever.

 

The pic of the filter looks sparkly, but there was no visible metal in mine either. I pulled the pleats apart and looked pretty carefully under a bright light. I also rubbed a clean paper towel in the old filter and looked to see if any fine metal transferred. There was none that I could see.

-JL

 

So -- having looked at the filter -- would you wait a bit longer for the first oil change, if you had it to do over again?

 

LOL - I usually don't wait this long for a first oil change and I honestly don't have enough experience with the cartridge filters to be able to "read" one accurately.

To answer your question though, I'm one of those paranoid types that likes to do an early first oil change. Yes, I would do it over again regardless of the condition of the filter.

-JL

 

Maybe it's really time for a topsider now...

 

I was wondering about that. How thorough are they -- do they leave much dirty oil behind?

If I understand correctly, the oil filter is accessed from the top. So, if the oil could be drained with this:
http://www.coopersport.com/usa/Top-S...r-p-16285.html
then the car wouldn't need to be jacked up at all.