Anyone doing their own oil changes between the 15K factory changes?

How difficult is the oil filter to get at? Is it top-side access or underneath?

Anyone use a top-side oil change system? How completely does it drain the oil?

Thanks,

 

I just changed my R56's oil this weekend at 400 miles.

It's a pain to get to the filter housing, however it doesn't make a mess like the R53's housing did, an improved design for sure. I believe the filter housing uses a 1 & 1/16" 6-point socket [I guess that's 27mm], and you'll need at least a 1 foot 1/2" rachet extension, and remove both the turbo compressor inlet tube and move the coolant tank out the way. What's definitely worse however is the vertical drain plug, meaning that you and your T-50 bit will get soaked in oil!

I hope that helps, ask me questions if you need more info!
Cheers,
Ryan

 

Is oil filter access from top or bottom?
Thanks,

 

also, do you have pictures?

_

 

From what I can tell, you either remove stuff from the top of the engine or go from the bottom to get to the filter. I am wondering how often the oil should really be changed. I will probably change the oil after breakin and then once a year or every 5000 miles.

 

Can you imagine a Jiffy lube trying to attempt this?

 

Had a very bad experience with those folks. I wouldn't go there if you paid me.

 

Tell us about it.

 

You drain the oil from the oil-pan from the bottom of the car [on stands or ramps]. You change out the oil filter from the housing from the top of the car. You have to remove the compressor inlet tube, or move it off to the side, keeping the PCV connected. You also have to unbolt and move the coolant reservoir off to the side in order to take your rachet with very long extention and unscrew the housing.

I don't see how you could access the filter housing from the bottom of the car. You have to get to it from the top by moving the tube and reservoir off to the side. I didn't take any pictures. Once I figured out how to get to the filter housing it only took me 5 minutes to change out the filter and o-ring.

Jiffy Lube is probably not going to have the filter or decent synthetic oil for the MINI. That said, it's actually easier to change than the R53's oil filter. The R53's filter housing was a pain. It loved to cross-thread itself, and was quite tough to remove without spilling a half quart of oil all over the subframe and suspension. I didn't spill a single drop on this 1st R56 oil change attempt. That's impressive because I was infamous for making an "Exxon Valdez" on the garage floor with my R53, LOL!

One last thing. MINI forgot to put a crush washer on my oil pan drain plug. I suggest you install the new copper crush washer that comes with the oil filter!

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Thanks very much. Now that you've done the 400 mile change, how often do you plan to change the oil?

 

DONT EVEN GET STARTED WITH THOSE QUICKY LUBE PLACES THEY ARE A NIGHTMARE

 

I'll do oil changes approximately every 6k miles. 8k if I'm lazy

I highly recommend everyone change their "break-in" oil within the first thousand miles. I find it repulsive MINI expects people to wait 10k+ before getting rid of that slurry of metal shavings.

 

I know I'm going to get flamed by clean oil-obssessive motorers here but changing good synthetic oil every 5000 miles is a waste of a perfectly fine resource. Motor oils have made huge scientific advances, and depending on your driving, every 8-12k will be fine. My Toyota mechanic will back this, esp. when using top-tier synthetics like Mobil 1.

Even Click and Clack agree that dyno oil use, under normal conditions, can now stretch to 5000-7500 miles between changes, and that the old every 3k "standard" is outdated--and wasteful--given the advances in lube technology.

I do agree tho that 10k is a long time to wait for the first change; I did my first at about 3.5k and 7500-8000 ever since (stay safe and keep it on the low side). And since I dont put more than 7500-8000 on my MCS in a year, my dealer does the oil changin for free.

And, the fast lube places are clueless rips; after all, they're the ones that want you to bring the car back every 3-5k just for the business, even if it is synth oil avoid

 

Well, all that may be true. But I still feel like the new MCS motor needs more reasonable oil change intervals. With my old MINI, I did every 5000 or once a year, and probably will do the same with this MINI. I tend to rev up the motor alot, and do some spirited driving whenever conditions allow it. The new MINI definitely has more low end power, and I find myself shifting at only 3000 rpm vs 4000. Of course I've had the occassionaly wind up to 4500 (the max for another 700 or so miles!)

I think the 15000 mile interval is set to save MINI money on service...

 

I think it depends on the car and the way you drive it. One factor is the volume of its oil reserve; another is the filtration system. A Porsche has a huge oil reserve, and seems to be happy going for long distances between changes. My Integra only takes about 4.5 quarts. I can hear when it needs its oil changed, and it is about 4K. The color on the dipstick also tells me a change is due. I read somewhere that the MINI holds 4.4 qts. of oil. I don't know much about its oil filter.

If, like me, you commute on the internet, don't put a lot of miles on the car, and often make short trips, you would need to change the oil often. If you spend a lot of time cruising the freeway at 65 mph, you could go much longer between changes.

Synthetics don't break down as fast as standard oils, but they do get contaminated. Consumer reports recommends using synthetic oils for harsh engine conditions, but not increasing oil change intervals. Turbocharged is, I suspect, a harsh engine condition. I think it requires synthetic because of the high temperatures involved.

I am somewhat cynical about BMW's choice of 15K for the MINI. I think the considerations they took into account may not be entirely in your best interest.

Advantages to BMW for extending oil-change intervals:
1. It is a great selling point. The average consumer thinks it is a wonderful advantage not to have to take the car in for service as often. It also makes the car seem like it is of special high quality that it doesn't need to be coddled as much as the next car. I've seen this attitude among BMW and Mercedes owners.

2. Saves them money on provided free maintenance. Weigh that against having the engine go bad under warranty and there is an incentive to extend the interval farther than an owner would. The owner wants the engine to last much longer than the mfg. does.

I see some strong incentives for BMW to extend the interval farther than what is best for the owner. Few businesses will resist such incentives.

 

I don't drive much and plan on once a year changes, except for the first one.

Any one know who has filters besides the dealer? Would just changing the oil and not the filter be 90% as good for this first post break-in change?

 

Won't happen. Part of it has to do with the general German (and European) view that changing any car's oil under 10,000 miles is a waste and frowned upon. When I sold Geos I had a German client that freaked out when I told him to change his (dino) break-in oil around 2k, then about every 5k or so afterward. In almost a cultural shock reaction, he was amazed that oil changes in the states were so frequent. "Not very green, and so wasteful," I remember him saying. So perhaps these huge stretches between oil changes not just for BMW, but M-B, VWAG, etc. is a cultural perception transferred to the automotive business. Plus the fact that oil and petrol are soooooo expensive over there.... (that's why he liked Geo Metros)

So RC if you do a search on this forum you'll see all kinds of opinions about oil changes. Everyone has their view, and old traditions die VERY hard. And don't hold your breath waiting for BMW to decrease OC intervals. If anything, they may lengthen them, because their so busy fixing dash rattles and window regulators....

 

Pretty sure MiniMania carries filters. But then this is for R53, not sure about R56. And for break-in, I'd change both. When my R53 hit 3,500 miles I took it in to my dealer and just coughed up the $58 for the change (I had other warranty issues that needed attention). Since then, they've been free.

 

I didn't mean to give the impression that I was expecting BMW to shorten intervals. I was just explaining why I thought they had strong incentives to have such long intervals.

Interesting about the European "Green" attitude towards oil changes. On the other side of the argument you could say that shortening an engine's usable life is not very green. But then again, with the increasing efficiencies in engines, perhaps it is good to get the old cars off the road sooner.

 

And you didnt, no problem. It's amazing how we Americans have such different views towards everything, even something as prosaic as oil changes.

 

The motor is also run at the factory after assembly. My understanding is that the oil is changed after that test run. Combined with a lot better manufacturing conditions and cleanliness, it could be that there's somewhat less crud around the motor when delivered to the buyer and they start driving.

I've also heard that taking out the run-in oil too soon is also bad.

I sure wouldn't do it too early, but wouldn't wait 15K no matter what they say. Assuming the oil is recycled, it can't be that bad to change it at 3K or 5K, for instance.

 

Why would that be?

 

Because it's better to keep all the metal shavings in the engine swirling about? dwjj if you have proof the oil from the factory is different somehow, please let us know.

 

What I have read is that it is a lighter oil that is intended to allow the parts to "mate" better. Yeah that sounds like extra wear. I'm not advocating it-just relating it.

Proof? I don't work for an oil company or a car manufacturer. I could give some links with relative articles if you want them.

edit
I checked several of my Clymer and Haynes service manual. My triumph service manuals said to use running-in oil and not change too early. They each discuss a running-in period of 500 miles, change the oil afterwards. One mentioned using a single grade oil is preferable to multi grade. It takes a certain amount of time to bed rings and make sure that lifters are seating agains cams. Various oil manufacturers market special running-in oils.

Since the motor is test-run, perhaps that takes the place of the initial running-in period. So the initial flushing of shavings and some of the initial bedding takes place, and after the test stand with new oil in the car, the remaining breakin is different.

The MINI website has a factory tour. It shows the motors being test run on stands after assembly before mounting to cars.

Now if you allow for the possibility that you want the first oil to be a little less slippery, and allow that the manufacturers could concievably have a reason for telling you in manuals not to run synthetic too early in order to allow this seating, then isn't it a possibilty that you'd want to run this oil for some period of time? If you'd change at mile 1, the break-in might not be complete?

I'm not saying at all that 15K makes any kind of sense to me. What I said was " I've also heard that taking out the run-in oil too soon is also bad." I still think that's a possibility. Whether "too soon" is 10 miles or 1000 I can't say.

various random sites advocating running-in oil
http://www.petrolheads.co.uk/gassing...3&t=124184&h=0
http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/...showtopic=6927
http://www.withamgroup.co.uk/vintagelubs.html
http://www.zenperformance.co.uk/p/oils-additives
http://www.britcycle.com/Manuals/500BigBoreInst.htm
http://www.aaoil.co.uk/racing-Crankcase-oils
http://fordforums.com.au/printthread.php?t=17938
http://www.mini2.com/forum/general-d...reaking-2.html

http://www.gasresearch.com.au/epg.html
Running in
Not a problem on gas. Use running in oil for the twenty minutes required to run in your cam. Change this oil whilst hot to regular oil and load the engine on a dynamometer whilst tuning the gas system to perfection. If you do not tune and load your engine in its infancy the bores and rings will glaze.

 

Sunfish Break-in
Sunfish

Hi, new member to NAM so Hello
as to 1st oil change it is sugested strongly to use a non synthetic oil for the 1st 5000 miles in order to let the moving engine parts mate. simply synthetic oils are too slippery to allow matting to take place