Drivetrain RaceChip (Pro): a workable ECU tune solution (and possible group buy)?
#26
However, on a factory JCW it can be installed, but the claimed performance gains are lower @ 21%.
#27
While it's definitely not a dyno run, or measurably scientific; one thing I did when I installed my Sprint Booster was drove for a few hundred miles with it in and on (pushing the car like I normally would) and then one day randomly turned it off and drove the same way.
That made the response change very noticeable; a lot of times our butt-dyno can make up increases, but immediate decreases we acutely notice (hence every rattle, knock, stutter, etc. always seems so dramatic).
That made the response change very noticeable; a lot of times our butt-dyno can make up increases, but immediate decreases we acutely notice (hence every rattle, knock, stutter, etc. always seems so dramatic).
#28
Well, it's in. It was no 2-5min install as promised.Partly because I don't know my way around under the hood of my Mini yet, but also because the instructions that came with the kit are incomplete. They show only hooking up to one sensor, and on the Mini it clearly requires two. After a bit of screwing around trying to figure out where the MAP sensor was I finally got it installed.
Now I should qualify my statements by saying that I have only had my R60 for all of 600 miles. So overall it still feels new and different to me, and that makes it more difficult to tell what is new or different with the RaceChip installed.
Upon initial start up I could tell the sound was a little different. Just barely, but perceptible. Pulling down the driveway I could feel that it was a little different, and the exhaust sound was a little different.
Can you tell that the theme here is "a little different". I drove around a bit, did a couple of launches, tried a couple of dinodyno runs (although it was not cooperating), and then drove around some more.
While the jury is still out, I will say that there is clearly a difference in performance and driving feel. That said, it is not night and day, and it has not turned into a JCW killer or anything of the sort.
I am going to keep messing with it and see if there is any kind of "break-in" period or if this is what I get for $725. I am not dissatisfied, but I have a hard time believing I got anywhere near a 26% improvement.
I will be interested to see how it reacts with threar's modified car as mine is bone stock.
On Monday it is going in for service, so I will be removing the chip. Perhaps switching it back will allow me to see just how much improvement there is.
I am not sure that I know what you would like me to post a video of. Can you elaborate?
Now I should qualify my statements by saying that I have only had my R60 for all of 600 miles. So overall it still feels new and different to me, and that makes it more difficult to tell what is new or different with the RaceChip installed.
Upon initial start up I could tell the sound was a little different. Just barely, but perceptible. Pulling down the driveway I could feel that it was a little different, and the exhaust sound was a little different.
Can you tell that the theme here is "a little different". I drove around a bit, did a couple of launches, tried a couple of dinodyno runs (although it was not cooperating), and then drove around some more.
While the jury is still out, I will say that there is clearly a difference in performance and driving feel. That said, it is not night and day, and it has not turned into a JCW killer or anything of the sort.
I am going to keep messing with it and see if there is any kind of "break-in" period or if this is what I get for $725. I am not dissatisfied, but I have a hard time believing I got anywhere near a 26% improvement.
I will be interested to see how it reacts with threar's modified car as mine is bone stock.
On Monday it is going in for service, so I will be removing the chip. Perhaps switching it back will allow me to see just how much improvement there is.
I am not sure that I know what you would like me to post a video of. Can you elaborate?
Cant wait to hear about what is going on with your race chip!
#29
I have learned the hard way with these mini's for the break in period.. Just now at 1400 miles and I have to say. With my foot in my mouth, You will have to wait your 1200 miles until the car has fully broken in. Now at 1400 miles I can tell the difference of when it was 600 miles. Please keep all of us posted. Do your normal 15 mile freeway run, to zooming it around town.. Log all your info and lets see real world applications!
Cant wait to hear about what is going on with your race chip!
Cant wait to hear about what is going on with your race chip!
#31
#33
It is currently set on 6 (I opened it up to check). The sound is not appreciably different at idle. I did notice a bit more burbling from the exhaust while coming off the gas at 3-4000 RPM (under driving load). I also notice the turbo/intake sounds slightly more. That could be new, or it could just be that I have always had the radio on and not paid attention. My guess is that it is a combination of both.
I will say from the little seat time I have with it so far, it is a bit smoother starting out in first, which I am very happy about. I imagine that replacing the OE paper filter would probably spice things up a bit.
I am going to find out from the manufacturer if there is an easy way to switch back and forth from with RaceChip to without. I am thinking the "tester" that comes with it might allow me to do so, but I want to confirm before I try. Otherwise its a little bit of a pain to connect and disconnect because the MAP sensor is underneath the air cleaner.
Either way I will be switching back to stock on Monday for a trip to the dealer. Hopefully that will give me a little more perspective.
#34
Poked around the website...
all the mini chips are for "d" models...
Diesel powered mini's...
Not sold in the us...
I'm still reading more on the website...maybe i'm wrong....but figured i would let other folks look at the site to see if they read the list of cars like i do....
Edit...
Poked around...they sell the box for direct injected gasoline motors...so that orovides a clue to what they adjust...interesting the same box..
and a 20%+ change should MELT YOUR TIRES and be instantly noticable!! Does not sound like you got that. Good luck.
all the mini chips are for "d" models...
Diesel powered mini's...
Not sold in the us...
I'm still reading more on the website...maybe i'm wrong....but figured i would let other folks look at the site to see if they read the list of cars like i do....
Edit...
Poked around...they sell the box for direct injected gasoline motors...so that orovides a clue to what they adjust...interesting the same box..
and a 20%+ change should MELT YOUR TIRES and be instantly noticable!! Does not sound like you got that. Good luck.
Last edited by ZippyNH; 05-03-2012 at 05:00 PM.
#35
#36
After looking around a little more on the RaceChip site I found out that I can, in fact, use the test connector to "reset" the car without removing the wiring. Essentially it just completes the circuit without influencing the signal.
So prior to heading across town for dinner I removed the "box" and replaced it with the "test plug" and was on my way. It is much easier now to say that there is a distinct difference. Much less "lively" or "eager" feeling. Definitely did not pull as hard. No burble in the exhaust.
Getting a true side by side is a little tricky because you aren't supposed to swap the connector while there is still current in the ECU. This meant that I had to wait until I had eaten my dinner to go back and plug in the "box" for the drive home.
When I started driving again with the "box" plugged in I realized what the difference is. The pull starts much lower in the RPM band and continues smoothly until redline. This is of course my subjective observation, and I have no data to support it.
The closest I have is another dyno app run under less than ideal conditions (slight up hill in my neighborhood) where I got a reading of 200hp (up from 178). Still no 26%, but I imagine with a better breathing filter and better test conditions I would get there.
I think one other factor softening my reactions is the fact that the two other vehicles in my family are an 07 MCS JCW package and an 11 Clubman JCW (factory). So in comparison my CMS feels a bit tepid. When I first drove it with the RaceChip I think I was expecting it to feel more like a JCW. However, with the extra 400-600lbs, I think that might be a bit unreasonable for me to expect, regardless of power improvements.
Still experimenting, but definitely feeling better about it now.
So prior to heading across town for dinner I removed the "box" and replaced it with the "test plug" and was on my way. It is much easier now to say that there is a distinct difference. Much less "lively" or "eager" feeling. Definitely did not pull as hard. No burble in the exhaust.
Getting a true side by side is a little tricky because you aren't supposed to swap the connector while there is still current in the ECU. This meant that I had to wait until I had eaten my dinner to go back and plug in the "box" for the drive home.
When I started driving again with the "box" plugged in I realized what the difference is. The pull starts much lower in the RPM band and continues smoothly until redline. This is of course my subjective observation, and I have no data to support it.
The closest I have is another dyno app run under less than ideal conditions (slight up hill in my neighborhood) where I got a reading of 200hp (up from 178). Still no 26%, but I imagine with a better breathing filter and better test conditions I would get there.
I think one other factor softening my reactions is the fact that the two other vehicles in my family are an 07 MCS JCW package and an 11 Clubman JCW (factory). So in comparison my CMS feels a bit tepid. When I first drove it with the RaceChip I think I was expecting it to feel more like a JCW. However, with the extra 400-600lbs, I think that might be a bit unreasonable for me to expect, regardless of power improvements.
Still experimenting, but definitely feeling better about it now.
#38
Poked around the website...
all the mini chips are for "d" models...
Diesel powered mini's...
Not sold in the us...
I'm still reading more on the website...maybe i'm wrong....but figured i would let other folks look at the site to see if they read the list of cars like i do....
Edit...
Poked around...they sell the box for direct injected gasoline motors...so that orovides a clue to what they adjust...interesting the same box..
and a 20%+ change should MELT YOUR TIRES and be instantly noticable!! Does not sound like you got that. Good luck.
all the mini chips are for "d" models...
Diesel powered mini's...
Not sold in the us...
I'm still reading more on the website...maybe i'm wrong....but figured i would let other folks look at the site to see if they read the list of cars like i do....
Edit...
Poked around...they sell the box for direct injected gasoline motors...so that orovides a clue to what they adjust...interesting the same box..
and a 20%+ change should MELT YOUR TIRES and be instantly noticable!! Does not sound like you got that. Good luck.
http://www.racechip.de/racechip-chip...-S-4133-r.html
#40
Today I will "kick it up a notch", literally, to "7" which is the highest setting. Each notch is supposed to provide a 1.5% increase, so I am not expecting anything dramatic. I will report back how that goes.
#42
What I noticed pre-RaceChip was that if I didn't put it in "sport" the slower throttle response made it tricky to be smooth in first and second, and I often found myself bogging the engine. Pre-RaceChip in "sport" I felt that problem went away for the most part.
With the RaceChip installed, in or out of "sport", I have no bogging issues. It is making enough power early on and revving quick enough that the issue seems to be taken care of. With "sport" on, the throttle response is definitely tighter, and with the increased power it definitely feels "lively".
Overall I would say the feeling is that the power comes on sooner and faster... if that makes sense.
#43
#44
Yes.. I feel the same when Im not in Sport as well. I feel the engine bogging a little due to boost in the Turbo between 1-2 and coasting while driving in that 30 mph speed. I notice it the most when driving in my neighborhood for 7 min at 25 mph due to posted speed limit and cops! lol
#45
After doing a lot of research and knowing about piggy back systems to tell the ECU what to do, I think they are just boosting the Turbo and changing fuel mapping to get that increase. What would be a great comparison is to do a drag race a little of a standard S and yours and see if you can feel the difference? Then swap cars and do the same.. This would help. Unless you put this on a Dyno, you won't really know.
#46
After doing a lot of research and knowing about piggy back systems to tell the ECU what to do, I think they are just boosting the Turbo and changing fuel mapping to get that increase. What would be a great comparison is to do a drag race a little of a standard S and yours and see if you can feel the difference? Then swap cars and do the same.. This would help. Unless you put this on a Dyno, you won't really know.
#47
The RaceChip is connected between the engine control unit and the injection unit. The engine control unit normally sends the data directly to the injection unit. Now, the RaceChip receives the data first and optimizes it tailored to the driving situation. Furthermore, the RaceChip is only active, when you need the performance. Thus your driving is engine-protective. We modify the injection values of the vehicle with the RaceChip, i.e. the injection quantity, injection duration and the injection time are optimized. Additionally, (if present) the turbo charging pressure is increased by max. 0.2 bars. This optimization results in a power improvement respectively leads to a fuel saving.
This is what RaceChip says about how the device works. Exactly like you are describing for a piggyback system. They mention a max increase of 0.2 bars (~3psi) of boost which seems pretty well in line with the chart from the NM Engineering tune in European Car. There tests show an average boost of ~11.5 pre-tune and ~14.5 post tune. It also looks like it is a much smoother curve. I am no technician or engineer, but it looks and sounds logical to me.
#48
Yup.. This is what they do to get more "POWER" seems super logical to me too.. Im in Issaquah, want to come over the pass and we can do a mini comparison Most "tuning" piggyback systems function this way. I know they have been doing this for years based upon Audi's and Vw's along with other small engine turbo systems. Diablo sport and Unichip has the same things but for american made cars.. They just mod "Piggyback" style info to the ECU thus telling it to change the values and smooth out the curve. I think increases of 20%+ will be with intake and exhaust with a piggyback system will be the most increase. This will really effect the air/fuel mixture and the boost.. Also to say that replacing all the stock tubes will allow more airflow and see above increases in performance well above 26%!!
Now only if they had something like the Powercommander with Autotune like they do for motorcycles! I went from 75HP on a motorcycle now with just intake and exhaust, PC5 and Autotune Im at 125HP SAE! Now thats power increase!!
Now only if they had something like the Powercommander with Autotune like they do for motorcycles! I went from 75HP on a motorcycle now with just intake and exhaust, PC5 and Autotune Im at 125HP SAE! Now thats power increase!!
#49
#50
Anyone check out these:
http://www.performancechiptuning.com...er/Countryman/
http://www.performancechiptuning.com...er/Countryman/