Hey y'all. I have a 2013 MINI Cooper Countryman S that is throwing a P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire code. 3 months ago I replaced all spark plugs and coils when all four cylinders were misfiring. The car was running fine and is now acting up again, and I only use premium gas.

Here's the breakdown of all codes thrown according to BlueDriver:

----Confirmed Trouble Codes Scan Report----
1 Confirmed Trouble Codes Trouble Codes:
1. P0301
Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
----Pending Trouble Codes Scan Report----
1 Pending Trouble Codes Trouble Codes:
1. P0301
Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
----Permanent Trouble Codes Scan Report----
1 Permanent Trouble Codes Trouble Codes:
1. P0301
Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

----Advanced Crash and Safety Management Codes Scan Report----
3 Advanced Crash and Safety Management Trouble Codes:
1. 93C3
Status: History • OC3
2. 943A
Status: History • CIS-Matte CIS IQ values out of range
3. 943D
Status: History • CIS-Matte CIS Internal HW Error because of humidity

----Engine Codes Scan Report----
8 Engine Trouble Codes:
1. 2EFE
Status: History • DFES DTCM.DFC TASRmin C - intake air temperature past throttle valve actuator
2. 2EFF
Status: History • Misfiring, cylinder 1: detected
3. 2EE0
Status: History • Misfiring, several cylinder: shutdown injection
4. 2EE4
Status: History • Misfiring, cylinder 1: shutdown injection
5. 2EE2
Status: History • map thermostat, input signal
6. 2EE6
Status: History • Elektric fan, triggering
7. 2EE1
Status: History • coolant medium pressure sensor
8. 2EE5
Status: History • map thermostat, input signal


Also, here's the freeze frame values for reference:

PID : Description : Value
04 : Calculated Engine Load Value : 85.9 %
05 : Engine Coolant Temperature : 185 °F
06 : Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 : 12.5 %
07 : Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 : -0.8 %
0B : Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure : 47.8 inHg
0C : Engine RPM : 3463 rpm
0D : Vehicle Speed : 48 MPH
0E : Timing Advance for #1 cylinder : 6.0 °
0F : Intake Air Temperature : 39 °F
10 : Mass Air Flow Rate : 10.20 lb/min
11 : Absolute Throttle Position : 85.9 %
1F : Run Time Since Engine Start : 467 seconds
23 : Fuel Rail Pressure : 1735 PSI
2E : Commanded Evaporative Purge : 0.0 %
2F : Fuel Level Input : 72.5 %
33 : Barometric Pressure : 30 inHg
42 : Control Module Voltage : 14.701 V
43 : Absolute Load Value : 150.6 %
44 : Commanded Equivalence Ratio : 0.953 λ
45 : Relative Throttle Position : 74.9 %
46 : Ambient Air Temperature : 37 °F
47 : Absolute Throttle Position B : 85.9 %
49 : Accelerator Pedal Position D : 56.1 %
4A : Accelerator Pedal Position E : 27.8 %
4C : Commanded Throttle Actuator : 90.2 %
51 : Fuel Type : 0 N/A

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

HI, you don't state if you used OEM or aftermarket plugs and coils. I have a 2013 and a 2106 R60S. I had issues just like you with the 2013. I used aftermarket Coils. I finally went for OEM and haven't had an issue since. Cant explain it...Coils with the same spec's should work and continue to work but they didn't.

My thought and just a guess is that if you run a scangauge or similar and look at your voltage. These cars jump quite a bit. BMW turns the alternators on and off a lot to help with fuel mileage. Maybe the wide swing on voltage from in my case 13.8 to as high as 15 is too much for the coils. I have not had any other voltage related issues with either car, they both have the same voltage swings but could the extra 1 or 2 volts on the coils be too much? Just my thought.