So I heard a rattle today at startup that made me thing.. well.. "that's not my hpfp" and it lasted until the car warmed up, and today I also got a superknock.. which may need to be walnut blasted but that's a job I'll have to pay someone to do...
110k on the car, I figure its time anyways as nobody can tell me if its been done or not. (I got it at 89k)
I normally do all my own work in my driveway, with the exception of timing.. cant say I have ever done it before, but after watching a TON of videos, and reading about it before newtis went down.. I think I can do it. (I grew up in a shop.. the work doesn't scare me.. breaking the car does.)
I was going to pick up the cam lock tool, and then I found a neat tool to turn the crank.

Now the only tool that I know of.. that I don't have/cant source locally is the cam lock tool. fcp doesnt loan that one out (they do for the n14, just not the n18)

Has anyone used this one:

Or should I just shell out for the Shwaban?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../026421sch01a/

I figure, I can do this all for under $400 in parts from fcp euro and then the cam tool/crank tool, but are there any other special tools? (not normal tools.. just special ones that someone who's done this can recommend)

I found a local guy that will do it for $1200, but I also really, really, really like doing my own work... (but he would be convenient.....)

 

If you have the mechanical ability and the space, I’m all for DIY. I also believe in buying quality tools. Not sure the pedigree of the Amazon tool set compared to the Schwaben, but maybe you can sell the Schwaben set here after you’re done? Although, the Amazon set is free delivery and free returns... you could buy that set and return it if it looked wonky when received.

 

I ordered the amazon one after reading the reviews, most of them were "it got the job done" - one saying it was a little smaller, but I'll compare it with some calipers when I get it.
If its junk I'll just sent it back!.
My thought is, I'll hopefully (knock on wood) - only have to do this once..





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When you get your hands on it, I'm interested in hearing your opinions.

 

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Well, It Just arrived.
Initial impressions are: its.. well.. cheap.
I wont be doing the timing chain until either later in the week or over the weekend. Depending on the weather really.
I will grab my calipers and check to see how big these are.. see how much I will need to file down if any.
The Bolts are junk, going to definitely buy new ones.. but that's only a buck or so.
I am not regretting this purchase FULLY yet.... Its good solid metal.. just need to find out how big the cams are @ locked vs the openings here. If they are really bad, I'll overnight the Schwaben one.
Worst case scenario is I have to wait a few more days to get the timing chain done.
Cold mornings here, noise definitely increased. when its warm you can just barely hear it.
110k on the car, its time to be done no matter what.


Have some pics:




need to drill this out...

 

it is very possible but expect it to take like 10+ hours.

A lift does help, I was able to access the spot for the crank locking pin fairly easily once it was up in the air. you have to remove the pass side motor mount so you need something to hold the motor up, the official tool looks like a metal foot that bolts to the block.

You can order all the stuff via ECS. I know you'll need e-torx sockets, a t30 to remove the intake vanos solenoid and a 27mm wrench for the tensioner. Torque wrenches are a must. Newtis was still functioning when I did my timing earlier in the year so you will need to look up the torque specs. oh and don't forget to pull the dipstick. Newbie mistake, realized very quick when the old works didn't want to come out.

good luck

 

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Yeah, lift is the only thing I don't have anymore
Got some big ol jack stands and a couple jacks for that. I have done all my motor mounts here, not too worried about that.
My cam locking kit came with the tool to lock the flywheel, and I also picked up the bmw tool to hold the crank while loosening the bolt.
Still waiting for the actual chain kit to get here tomorrow unfortunately or I would start tomorrow and finish on thursday.
Seems like the majority of the time based on numerous videos I have watched is just the dissasembly/reassembly.
I also ordered a new vanos solenoid today, since I am in there, might as well do it and I did throw a vanos code for it with a super knock. (once I get the timing chain done, walnut blasting is next.. but that I will have to pay someone to do.)

I'm all for spending 10 hours doing this, figure it will be a nice relaxing weekend working on the car.. hahaha

Appreciate the tips! Love em!

 

Any idea if you can only turn the camshafts in one particular order?
I'm just preparing in case I need to adjust mine once I get the flywheel locked:
https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/mini-...er-all-models/

Might not be needed, but just figured I would ask, better to be prepared than worried about it,

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So, here's an update after spending a couple hours with that tool.
It works..
It's a piece of crap, but it works.

The intake cam lock tool was just a tiny bit too small. Barely registered on my old school calipers. But I had to file both sides down to get it to fit. Exhaust wa fine.

Flywheel lock handle was sticking out too much, so you couldn't get it into the actual flywheel lock hole. It was also a hair too big. So I took a dremel with a sanding attachment (all I had) and just went to town on it. Then I had to break the handle off in order to get it to work.

Because of a cheap toolkit, I probably spent an extra hour or two messing with it trying to get it to work.

Flywheel lock before snapping the handle off. I basically just snapped it off at the curve of the handle.

Before I broke the handle off, and covered in wd-40.

 

So here's my Day 1 (1/2 a day) update:

• Set the R60 in service mode which really isn't the same as an r56.. just like half a service.
• Fought with headlight. headlight bolt was frozen in the plastic clip. apparently happens a lot according to the parts guy at mini.
• bought new plastic clip.
• removed plumbing to throttle body
• disconnected all wiring around valve cover.
• pulled coil packs.
• pulled valve cover.
• was amazed at how dirty a 2 owner 110k R60 valve train could be. (damn you prev owner.. DAMN YOUUUUUUU)
• test fit cam locking tool. Exhaust didn't fit due to the cam locking tool having too much metal on it.
• Set crank to mid point with the help of some bbq skewers. (awesome idea btw) - cams were in perfect time.. EXCELLENT!
• Spent an hour or two filing the intake cam lock tool down: measuring, testing, filing, testing, filing... (you get the idea.. it was a while)
• once that was filed down and test fitted - moved onto the flywheel lock to discover a metal plate covering it. (attached to an exhaust bracket)
• Fought with that e-torx 12 for.. an hour? - checked multiple stores, nobody has this in a ratchet... ordered on off amazon for future use.
• Ran to harbor freight and got a really thin ratchet.. after loosening up the exhaust bolts in the mid of the car, I was able to wiggle the socket and ratchet on there.. loosened it then removed it by hand. Will replace with normal bolt.
• Found out flywheel locking tool also had a tiny bit too much metal, and the handle was welded into the absolute worse place. - Sanded down tool with a dremel. snapped off handle.
• Flywheel locked! Cams still in the correct position.
• cams locked.
• decided to quit for the night while I was ahead.

So its morning now, a nice balmy 39 degrees. I am waiting for the temps to rise a bit and then going to head back out there and try and get this done today!
Once I get the engine mount off, and the friction wheel off, should be... well.. it should be better. (its a mini, I don't expect this to be "easy")

For the most part I am just using this as a guide: (says its for the n12, but so far everything has been good, and I've compared it to numerous forum posts and seems to be pretty accurate)
https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/mini-...er-n12-engine/
But otherwise, its not terribly difficult on the n18. I would agree so far its a 5 out of 10. I'm moving slow as I'm old, cold, and well cautious.

My only concern really is: Do I need to reset adaptations?
I have yet to get ista p/d with my d-kan cable? working on my laptop.. ncsexpert no problem, but not ista - if anyone has any working links for that.. please pm me. ( I have numerous but none of them work when installed)

 

Thanks for the update. I think I'll be purchasing the Schwaben kit... Hope it goes better putting it back together.

 

Yeah, buy the schwaben one.
I'm halfway done reassembly

 

Finally got ista+ working and reset my adaptations.
Timing chain replaced, car is running great so far!

 

Great write-up. Thank you!
Currently doing the same job.
Did you reset all adaptations, or just the timing/vanos adaptations? Happy to hear yours is running great. Touch wood!

 

Just the Timing and vanos ones.
Still new to insta+ so I wasn't about to do any more.

feel free to ask any questions while I still have it fresh in my head!

 

I took the car for a fun spirited drive for about 15 minutes.. no issues so far other than ones I already knew about. (like my m/s selector doesn't do anything for some reason....)
Tonight or tomorrow I am going to seafoam the intake valves for good measure, then do an engine flush and change the oil.
I only noticed a large chunk of plastic off the chain guide.. and I found that when I pulled the cassette out.. yay!

 

Thanks for the quick reply and car status follow-up.
I do not recommend doing seafoam on a car with this much mileage. I did it on my car when I first got it (60k miles, 70k now) following the instructions on the can. Later that day while doing 40mph I accelerated to overtake, the engine knocked hard and there was a big cloud of white smoke from exhaust. I got a check engine light plus a 'super knock - cylinder shutdown' error code. Not sure if the super knock caused any damage to the cylinders or pistons, but cleared the codes and car drove fine. Certainly won't be doing it again. I would recommend carbon cleaning by a professional who's got the right tools.

 

That was one thing I didn't see in all the writeups and on Newtis. I did see where someone asked about adaptations but it never had any other info. Which version did you use to reset the adaptations? I'd like to know your diagnostic setup so I can give that a shot. Not to hijack your thread but I've been stuck with the half engine light since this even though timing is spot on. Maybe this is the step I missed

thanks

 

Absolutely,
So I am running an 80gb windows 7 Vm image that contains all of the tools along side a K+DCAN cable (clear one)
I had used my laptop for programming with ncsexpert, but i could never get ista+ working.

I stumbled across and grabbed this, extracted it to an sdcard and popped it in my surface.. portable programming on the go! (you'd need a vm player, I use vmware worksation)
I only needed to update my com port in the edibas.ini (prob spelling that wrong at the moment) and I was good to go.
Followed a youtube video on where the vanos adaptations and timing adaptations were and I was done in 15 minutes.


Edit: Clean your vanos solenoids too! very easy to do.

 

I have had really good luck with seafoam in other direct inject engines,(mazdas in particular) but I DID heed your advice.. Mainly because the car is running REALLY good right now and I don't want to jinx it. (minus the vband clamp being really loose and rattling.. got a new one on the way.)
I called a few local shops and the cheapest surprisingly was mini direct @ $650 to do the cleaning.
That being said, I may just drop the $200 in tools to do it myself. I can 3d print the vacuum adapter, so not worried about that. For me its a temp thing.. I do all my work in a small parking spot out in the open and it was 15f yesterday...

 

If anyone needs help doing this in the northern VT or nothern NY area, lemme know. While I don't have my R60 anymore, I have most of the tools still.

PM me directly please.

(Took advantage of the stupidly high resale value due to covid.. went back to toyota. Last one lasted me 19 years before I sold it. And it's still running @ 500k)