F55/F56 F56 Spring/coilover install?
#26
#31
Originally Posted by toyopet
Thanks! I was able to use a 1/4 socket and WD-40
Any tips on getting the top nut off without air tools?
Any tips on getting the top nut off without air tools?
#33
I'm really having a tough time removing the hub from the strut. I removed the upper link bolt, the pinch bolt is removed, and I have a spreader in the pinch hub gap. I can twist the strut in the hub a bit, but it does not want to slide down. The only issue I could think of is that I only have the driver side jacked on stands. I'm thinking the car sitting on an angle may be causing the hub to bind with the strut. Any thoughts?
#35
Originally Posted by StnTwnDevil
I'm really having a tough time removing the hub from the strut. I removed the upper link bolt, the pinch bolt is removed, and I have a spreader in the pinch hub gap. I can twist the strut in the hub a bit, but it does not want to slide down. The only issue I could think of is that I only have the driver side jacked on stands. I'm thinking the car sitting on an angle may be causing the hub to bind with the strut. Any thoughts?
On another note for those of you that have paid to get an install done rather than do it yourself; how much did it cost?
#36
A hundred bucks per corner is about the going price around here. I just had mine done last month, but I also installed the JCW BBK, NM RSB and end links, and NM adjustable rear control arms so my cost would be considerably different. When I was just contemplating the springs the $100 per corner was the quote.
#37
Another mistake I made was jacking up one side of the car (passenger/driver side). That seemed to impact the ease of getting the hub to pull down at the right angle. So either put the entire car up on stands, or just the front or rear.
Last edited by StnTwnDevil; 06-27-2016 at 04:50 PM.
#38
I used an impact gun and wasn't able to screw the nut all the way down. I ended up gripping the shaft and hand tightening the nut, which I'm a bit nervous about. Did you release the spring compressor to give it some resistance before using the air gun?
#39
Originally Posted by StnTwnDevil
I used an impact gun and wasn't able to screw the nut all the way down. I ended up gripping the shaft and hand tightening the nut, which I'm a bit nervous about. Did you release the spring compressor to give it some resistance before using the air gun?
#40
And glad that helped with the pinch hub. It was torture getting the strut out.
#41
Originally Posted by StnTwnDevil
Yes, the top nut on the strut assembly. I actually just found a 9mm socket that fit inside a 19mm socket for the strut nut. I used a hand driver with a small shaft to go through the hole in the 19mm socket. I feel better now, I wasn't sure I tightened it all the way before.
And glad that helped with the pinch hub. It was torture getting the strut out.
And glad that helped with the pinch hub. It was torture getting the strut out.
#43
5th Gear
iTrader: (1)
Bringing this old thread back up... it's got some useful info, and hopefully someone finds my experience useful too. Just finished installing ST coilovers (same kit as KW v1 and JCW Sport). My car previously had NM springs, installed by a shop on my OEM Sport Suspension struts.
Install was simple, aside from 2 issues. First and biggest issue was removing the top hat from the strut. The rear wasn't too bad. The front... well I think the shop that did my springs zipped that nut back on with an impact. It was TIGHT. And even once loosened, there's some pretty strong thread lock or something in there. That nut doesn't want to come off. And the BMW engineers freaking buried it in that aluminum mount. An offset box wrench will not fit in there. You need a pass-thru socket. A buddy had this, and it kinda worked:
...but it was so deep that the 6mm allen key had to go in the long way, and it flexed too much. I actually broke one of these:
THIS is what got the job done. I would say it's a must-have for suspension work on the f56. Crescent X6 pass-thru socket set. Get the one with metric and standard. Maybe other brands would work the same, but this was perfect for me.
https://smile.amazon.com/Crescent-CX...ds=crescent+x6
This also worked great on the rear lower shock bolt, which was something like a 19mm star. One of the standard sizes was the best fit on there. That with a breaker bar got that right off. Anyway, back to the front top hat...
Also need these- 6mm front, 5mm back I believe:
And then you gotta get the nut tight on the ST. For some terrible reason, that uses a 9mm (I think) nut on the shaft, rather than an internal hex (allen) like the OEM strut. So you need a tiny nut driver that fits inside your Crescent socket. Well I had this, and it worked great. Probably a 1/4 size ratchet would work too.
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2938...ini+socket+set
Ok, so the second major challenge- getting the front struts out of the lower carriers. I tried the technique above- putting the wheel back on and jiggling. Didn't work for me. What did work: start with WD-40 for sure. I had floor jacks on each side of the car behind the front wheels. I put a jack stand under the strut, then slowly lowered one side, so that the *** of the strut poking thru the carrier contacted the tip of the U of the jack stand. Took it a little lower... pops out. I guess the other smarter way would be to have the car on jack stands, and use a floor jack to raise UP the bottom of the strut. Use a chuck of wood or something so it's just on the strut, not the carrier. Either way... So then it's loose... gotta loosen the top bolts so you get enough play to have it at the right angle (no need to remove the rain gutter, just use an open-ended wrench). And twist the strut back and forth... while putting all my weight down on the brake rotor and swearing. Eventually it wiggled out of there. Putting it back together wasn't that much easier... lifting the strut, bolted to the carrier, plus brake, axle, etc. with one hand... then catching a few threads on the top bolts... you know, a jack under it all probably would have made that a snap. Next time.
Edit- I guess there is such thing as a "strut nut socket". ECS has it, for one. I'd have that on hand too. Probably works when working on a factory-fresh car. I don't think would have worked on my previously-wrenched upon struts though (flexy little allen key being the weak point). But for the $14, good to have on hand.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...3046sch01a-02/
I think that's all I got. Hope that helps someone. Get that Crescent X6. It's mandatory. Great tool anyway.
Install was simple, aside from 2 issues. First and biggest issue was removing the top hat from the strut. The rear wasn't too bad. The front... well I think the shop that did my springs zipped that nut back on with an impact. It was TIGHT. And even once loosened, there's some pretty strong thread lock or something in there. That nut doesn't want to come off. And the BMW engineers freaking buried it in that aluminum mount. An offset box wrench will not fit in there. You need a pass-thru socket. A buddy had this, and it kinda worked:
...but it was so deep that the 6mm allen key had to go in the long way, and it flexed too much. I actually broke one of these:
THIS is what got the job done. I would say it's a must-have for suspension work on the f56. Crescent X6 pass-thru socket set. Get the one with metric and standard. Maybe other brands would work the same, but this was perfect for me.
https://smile.amazon.com/Crescent-CX...ds=crescent+x6
This also worked great on the rear lower shock bolt, which was something like a 19mm star. One of the standard sizes was the best fit on there. That with a breaker bar got that right off. Anyway, back to the front top hat...
Also need these- 6mm front, 5mm back I believe:
And then you gotta get the nut tight on the ST. For some terrible reason, that uses a 9mm (I think) nut on the shaft, rather than an internal hex (allen) like the OEM strut. So you need a tiny nut driver that fits inside your Crescent socket. Well I had this, and it worked great. Probably a 1/4 size ratchet would work too.
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-2938...ini+socket+set
Ok, so the second major challenge- getting the front struts out of the lower carriers. I tried the technique above- putting the wheel back on and jiggling. Didn't work for me. What did work: start with WD-40 for sure. I had floor jacks on each side of the car behind the front wheels. I put a jack stand under the strut, then slowly lowered one side, so that the *** of the strut poking thru the carrier contacted the tip of the U of the jack stand. Took it a little lower... pops out. I guess the other smarter way would be to have the car on jack stands, and use a floor jack to raise UP the bottom of the strut. Use a chuck of wood or something so it's just on the strut, not the carrier. Either way... So then it's loose... gotta loosen the top bolts so you get enough play to have it at the right angle (no need to remove the rain gutter, just use an open-ended wrench). And twist the strut back and forth... while putting all my weight down on the brake rotor and swearing. Eventually it wiggled out of there. Putting it back together wasn't that much easier... lifting the strut, bolted to the carrier, plus brake, axle, etc. with one hand... then catching a few threads on the top bolts... you know, a jack under it all probably would have made that a snap. Next time.
Edit- I guess there is such thing as a "strut nut socket". ECS has it, for one. I'd have that on hand too. Probably works when working on a factory-fresh car. I don't think would have worked on my previously-wrenched upon struts though (flexy little allen key being the weak point). But for the $14, good to have on hand.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...3046sch01a-02/
I think that's all I got. Hope that helps someone. Get that Crescent X6. It's mandatory. Great tool anyway.
Last edited by J_L; 02-14-2018 at 09:16 PM.
#50
First I want to say thanks for all the good info here, I was able to do the fronts in about 2 1/2 hours with all this info. The 2nd corner I did an hour and probably could have done it in 45 mins with some help. Now that the fronts are done I'm moving onto the rear and I can't find the trq settings/amount for the rear upper struts, can anyone help me out? Since they took down TiS I havent been able to find a site with them on it.