These "bumps" are 70mph pavement heaves that throw the car up in the air , I think the spring rates are too high, but if I lower the rate , I will lower the car and my 235's will rub

I think I need to talk to somebody over the phone to sort these out, any suggestions to whom I should call?

 

I had a similar situation on a freeway off-ramp where the soil underneath had settled in places, so there were "waves" in the pavement that were 4-6 inches up and down and about a car length long. That was quite a roller coaster ride until it was re-paved. The Ohlins won't react much to that because they are designed to stay stiff for low velocity changes (velocity of the wheel going up/down, not velocity of the car forward) but they are softer for sharper bumps like expansion joints in the pavement.

What settings are you using? I have experimented a lot, for a while I was -15 front, -18 rear (clicks from full stiff) but lately have been -10 all around.

Maybe you could get softer springs that are a bit longer to keep the same ride height, though there's a limit to how much extra length could still fit on the shock body.

 

The car does handle better,
I guess I need an expert to help me

 

It almost sounds like you might be bottoming out the car and that the springs are too soft. Just a thought.

 

Could be, but that's why I need to talk to an expert, there are too many variables , I'd be chasing my tail, and after a lot of work and a pile of $$$ springs would probably never find a solution.

 

No more harsh bangs going over sharp pavement edges.


It wasn't the Ohlins it was the Tarett



(Or my upgrade to high strength stainless steel bolts that were too long and smashing into the trailing arm)


The sway bar arm screw end was hitting the trailing arm,
the suspension was effectively bottoming out on the screw end





Could explain why I went through two left side sway bar bushings in a couple of years on the drivers side only,I was pounding the snot out of them! The passenger side is not effected because the sway bar arm bolt goes through upside down on that side.

 

LOL. It takes a brave person to admit they F'd up like that.

 

You had me wondering for a minute as I have the tarett too. Good catch !!!

 

Have you come up with a means of replacing the loud hiem joints links on the Tarett ?

 

Mine are still tight , and quiet , but maybe a set of hiem's with grease zerks?


http://www.speedwaymotors.com/afco-1...09170000040686

 

Nice find. When I first read your post I was thinking that the the bolt was like an inch too long. Then I saw the picture and it looks to be only about 1/4" too long. That doesn't seem to be too long, but clearly it is.

So what was the fix - a shorter bolt or did you drill a hole in the control arm? Ok just kidding

Glad it's fixed

 

I think the grease would work out fast if it didn't have some kind of a dust shield to help keep it in but your right I would help just have to give her a few "pumps" every now and then. Lol
They make some bad azz hemi joints these days but to find them in the smaller sizes is the trick. I need to pull one out and get the sizes so I can start the hunt.
Here is a good read
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Joints/

 

I did see some rubber boots for them, but sizes?

 

Can I have your shifter? How did you design the console? Is there someone installing them?


On another note, what setting are you running on the street with the Tarret? I have a 25mm and it doesn't seem to do much, moving the adjustments around. I'm looking for better traction out of corners.

 

One more thing, the driver side rear Ohlins upper stud lock nut became loose and started knocking pretty bad. I thought during the first installation the mechanic forgot to torque it. However after I removed the shock and torqued the nut , it became loose again. So the second time I used locktite and it seems to be holding. If I do it again I would use double nuts.

 

Here is the link to the console mod.
The shifter and the ohlins are my two favorite mods.... Well all that extra power is nice too. Lol.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-consoles.html

I have played with the bar location but I'm running the BF G2 tires and they suck , so have not spent to much time on setting the bar till I get some better tired

 

Tires....

 

Oh. JPMM. Thanks for the heads up on the bolts, I'm going to check mine this weekend !!!

 

I should probably start another thread on the Tarett bar , however, I need to let you know about one more thing that can cause "knocks" The sway bar has lock collars( my aluminum ones broke, probably because the screw end banging) , Those collars are butted up against plastic spacers. I found the spacers too short causing the collars to hit the body and make noises, so I made longer ones. I contacted Tarett and they said they will start supplying longer ones. Heres some photos.

 

Wow that is tight.

And nice ad for Swift Springs in your picture.

 

Thx. It was a fun project

 

Didn't notice that! (Got the swifts for sale , so far nobody wants them)

 

Just proves that if you want to something done right you better do it yourself I found the tube spacer did not pass through the aluminum plate correctly , it got cocked , when the upper nut was tightened. After a while the tube spacer dug into the aluminum allowing the nut to relax, causing a slight knocking , I double nutted it all back together anyways.

 

a couple more photos

 

+1

I'm still correcting mistakes from work I had done last year, the latest of which was to fix a stripped lower rear shock bolt I had been driving around on all of this time.