Correct rear only

 

Just purchased these calipers from a local guy, they look great besides the rubber boot damage around the piston. They both have this issue(from a 2008 r56s). Is this a concern?, can you describe what this boot does/protects?

 

Its a dust protector, just order new ones

 

your going to want to replace that seal before installing those.

 

Thanks, anyone got a part number and where to get it. Sorry I have no idea on oem stuff like that.

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...-kit-2009.html

 

Thanks bud, do I need to order two of these to cover the two damaged ones or does the kit come it two? The site is not clear.

Pretty easy to fit?

Thanks

 

I would order 2 and do both sides since you are doing the work.

 

Will do, but to be clear, I'm gonna pay someone to do the work, I know I could do it, having the time to and the bleeding the lines part "Ain't nobody got time for that"

 

Will order them tonight.

Prepping and cleaning them tonight also, since I'm replacing the dust covers, was gonna rip off the old ones, super clean them, tape off the areas I don't want to get paint on them (rubber and moving parts) and spray them. What ya think?

 

I taped over the rubber when I did my poor mans conversion, a little paint of the rubber won't hurt anything.

 

Order extra if you change pads often

 

add some stickers $12.52 and red 2-part paint and clear spray ~$35 and I should be good, eh?
CENTRIC 10512040 Brake Pad $ 33.79 CENTRIC 95034007 Hydraulic Hose $ 21.79 x2 $ 43.58 CENTRIC 14134091 Caliper $ 35.79 core $ 75.00 $ 110.79 CENTRIC 14134092 Caliper $ 35.89 core $ 75.00 $ 110.89 RAYBESTOS 980605R Rotor $ 23.79$ x2 $ 47.58 RAYBESTOS EWS78 Brake Pad Wear Sensor $ 14.64 Shipping Expedited $ 32.97 Order Total $ 394.24

 

I'd get coated rotors and good ceramic pads, unless you like looking at rust and brake dust.

 

So I ordered two of these, when cleaning them I tried to rip old ones off, didn't get it all off, but was wondering how to get the new one on once I get those. I Google but couldn't find a forum where replacing these boots are talked about. Anyone?

 

afaik ALL race pads dust like crazy, whole side of my car is covered in brake dust after just one autocross

 

The boots are held in place by a groove in the bore of the caliper. When you get the new boots, you'll see the lip that goes into this groove. You'll need to use a pick of some sort to get all the remainder of the old boots from out of the groove. To install the new boots, use a thin, plastic or wooden shim to carefully slip the boot lip into the groove. It's a lot easier when you're rebuilding the caliper because the piston is out of the bore but it can be done without piston removal.

 

he's not buying race pads though, just cheapy centrics

 

then why go to jcw brakes, just for looks?!?

 

This is the "poor man's JCW upgrade", not the Gen 2 JCW Brembo upgrade. For about $150-200 on top of a regular brake job you can get a lot better braking by upgrading to standard 2nd gen S brakes even without race pads.

 

was that directed towards me? Not sure I understand, I use the R56 S brakes on my r53 race car

and my jcw came with them, so far I've not needed anything more, there is a BIG difference from these to the regular r53 S brakes

 

Sorry , I just read these two posts before my reply and thought you wondered why go to R56 S/1st gen JCW brakes if only using regular pads.

 

Huston, we have a problem.
More of a paint issue, but figgured you guys could help here too. As you can see in the pictures I used Duplicolor black caliper paint as a primer, light first coat, two solid coats, then rust-oleum engine enamel paint over that in green, looked just how I wanted it, waited 15 minutes between primer coats, at least 20 between the rust-oleum coats because it was a little more of a tackey paint. Waited overnight to really dry when done. In the morning put my stickers and got ready to use Duplicolor engine enamel clear. Thought it would be fine because all the paints had ceramic components and rated for the same 500 degrees. Well they didn't play well at all and I made a rookie mestake of not testing the clear first. The cloudy and wrinkled pic is how it looks dry, sticker looks horrible now, not sure what to do.

Found rust-oleum engine enamel clear online, should that be fine?
Was thinking of trying pull the sticker off and sand down the one Caliper (I only cleared one). Respray lightly with green, put another sticker on, use the rust-oleum clear instead?

Don't really want to start completely over (strip all the paint off) if I don't have to.

What do you all think?

 

Neat effect

 

Well that's not exactly what I was going for. I wanted smooth color and not bumpy. You can see the one that has no clear on it, just imagine clear on that, but not all jacked up.

I guess if I don't want to fix it, I can just do both the same and say, "I meant to do that" ha