Ok so after looking at my build pics I think I see MY error.... The pics below show my clutch disk backwards I believe compared to the reference pic I found online.... Looks like it can be causing my engine to crank slow.

Reference...



Mine...

 

Hi just got back Glade you found it

 

Welcome back! Thanks. So far I have lowered the subframe and engine/tranny is lowered waiting for me to pull the tranny off tonight. Not been too bad really. Just concerned about getting the tranny back on with the engine at an angle since I am doing this alone lol. I should have the clutch corrected tonight and back together tomorrow or Saturday. Since I went this route I decided to replace the control arm bushing with powerflex, ball joints and end links. At least I am making the most of my mistake After this I hope she is happy and ready to run well.

 

Hi, just stepping in. I went through an engine and suspension rebuild by myself for the first time over the winter. I've read every message on this post and it is truly relatable. I ended up doing everything right except one step which was not tightening my cam gear tight enough onto the cam, which ripped the pin off, and then I had no compression. Took me a week to figure out, but then I got an RMW cam, so now I'm happy. Eagerly awaiting your results!

 

Thanks. I'm glad you got yours back on the road. I had to walk away tonight. I have the tranny bolts out and it separated about 1/2 inch but I'm having trouble getting it apart alone... I'll try tomorrow..

 

Typically when the clutch disc is installed backwards it wedges itself against the guide tube and then will not come apart without cutting something.. You will need to move the clutch fork out of the way thru the slave cylinder hole then removed the pressure plate bolts then remove the trans with the disc and pressure plate still on the guide tube. Not very fun way of doing it but way easier than backwards clutch R53 where you cannot get to the pressure plate bolts.

 

How do I move the fork out of the way? I'm following you. I'm going to message you my number if you don't mind calling me. Thank you

 

If you have the whole front end taken off, remove the engine out. Do the connection of the engine and transmission out side. Crank it by hand and double check your timing. I did many rebuilts, swaps, amd removals by myself. Dont give up and take your time and a nice cold sip of iced coffee.

 

Well I drilled the fork out so I can see the clutch bolts but they are a little off center so not really easy to get on yet. At least the engine turns easily now lol. I'm not sure at this point what pulling the engine will really gain me.

 

Ok I want to thank you for your advice and encouragement. I'm beat but I got it out. Now I can fix my mistake. For anyone reading this I hope you can learn from my mistake. I can tell you I learned a lot and I'm still glad I did this job myself.

 

You up for an engine pull race. I figure l need a bit of practice, dont forget the trans needs to be in place without bolts first, a bit of tapping is ok, once its together think about the crank case venting, intake vacuum is good but not if oil cant be kept out of the engine, I've tried. An AN-12 or 16 fitting some place then to a can then its up to you.

 

I'll be up for an engine pull race after mines fixed and running fine. Our just needs to be someone else's car lol. I tell you I've leaned so much doing this mistakes and all. I truly appreciate everyone's help! Can't say it enough.

 

Looks slightly different I got the tranny on alone. It slid right on and bolted up. Should have the car back together tonight or tomorrow. Then I can see if this fixed the issue. Before going forward I will crank the engine by hand tonight since it was dark and late when I got the tranny on last night. Fingers crossed this is the only issue. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

My final update!!! The car fired up perfectly. I let he idle for 20 min before huge rainstorm came thru. Not even a check engine. Ran smooth. rpm fluctuated every once in a while but nothing major. I still need to finish the front suspension and trim tonight but thats easy. After that I need to get the exhaust fixed. I dont think I want to run with only a downpipe lol. pins are being a ***** to line up but I will get it today. If you have a tip on that let me know but again I must thank all of you for your help. I am so glad I did this job. It's amazing how much you can learn from this.

To anyone doing this job dont be scared. It really isnt that bad. I made one mistake (clutch backwards) and that caused most of my issues. Lesson learned and will not do that again and hopefully my error helps others with this post in the future. Once I have time after all this I will put together a build post and detail what I did a bit.

Thanks again everyone!!!

 

I have been following this thread with great enthusiasm and anticipation. I am glad that all has favorably worked out. You have given me the drive to undertake such a venture as you have in the future. I am looking forward to your detailed tear down and assembly if you decide to document it.

 

Thanks. I have a few minor things to look into and getting the exhaust fixed tomorrow. Then I need to sleep a month lol. Once it's all worked thru I'll do a detailed build post. I'm happy I took this on. I learned so much.

 

I'm glad to see that your persistence and hard work has paid off. Good thing you took a bunch of pictures as you did the build! I truly hope that after all this you keep the car and enjoy it a while. It seems that many folks have had enough by the time they get it going and are quite happy to sell and move along to something different.

My clutch release bearing has just started to complain so it won't be long before I'm in there addressing that. Happy motoring!

 

I'm never selling this car. I built it to keep it. I will have other cars but this will become my fun car vs daily driver. I will look for another to rebuild next year I think to resell but thats another story.

The clutch really isnt that bad of a job if you dont mess it up like I did in the 1st place lol. Hopefully my error will help many others in the future. I will never pay $1000+ for a clutch job again. If you need help when you do yours let me know. I can at least tell you how not to do it lol.

Now I just need to fix 2 check engine lights but they should be minor.

 

Ok I am down to one CEL. The car runs and exhaust fixed. My issue is that I am fighting the code P0012. So far I have pulled the vanos solenoid and found crap on it. I cleaned it and replaced it. The code went away and I drove it fine for probably 1.5 hrs. The next morning I go to start it and it stalled out so this time I pulled the solenoid and cleaned it again. Wasnt that bad. I then pulled the non-return valve and replaced it. It had some crud on it. I sprayed the holes in the engine block out with cleaner and air. Changed the oil and the car started. It runs but the code will not clear. I only drove it a few miles not wanting to hurt anything. IMO since cleaning the solenoid both times have affected the issue I feel I am in the right area. I ordered a new solenoid and will try that. Since I have replaced everything in the engine I feel I should pull the valve cover and recheck my cam bolt torque values. The engine sounds fine. I am not sure if the engine is at peak power due to this or if the performance cams changed the way it feels. I notice its a little slower taking off but the RPM I am getting now per shift is a lot higher. I am just not getting on it till its well broken in. Any tips would be appreciated. I tend to be a bit paranoid or cautious in my thought process so maybe pulling the valve cover is not needed but peace of mind I think and its easy.

 

I've been doing research on different cams, Schrick and Cat. Both indicate that your performance changes are to be expected --- a little less at low RPM's, and all kinds of improvement at mid and hi RPM's.

If you posted your engine upgrades, I missed it. Care to let us know what's been done? Cams, Compression Ratio, max boost level, etc. Link to a build thread?

 

crud? was head rebuilt? take the filter apart check the pleats, good idea on any build, use a pump of some kind to empty oil,,,, save used oil filter in coffee strainer,,,,, I am now moving drain plug because it dams the bottom crud in the pan. What break in are you planing I like regular oil but you cant burn turbo so its a pain but I do think synth oils are just too good for break in

 

I will put a complete build post together after with pics etc. I went with the following for the engine and will list existing mods for a short list now.

Internal to engine:

WMW Performance cams
Supertech piston (+.20)
Supertech rods
all new bearing etc..
Head ported and polished and new valve seals
combustion chamber, piston head and valves ceramic coated
piston skirts coated
WMW timing chain kit

Everything else

All items minus HPFP was replaced that bolts to the engine
Detroit tuned turbo feed line kit
New clutch twice lol
noise maker delete
turbo muffler delete
Forge Intercooler
New radiator
all new hoses to every item under the hood
DDM Works Race Intake
High Flow downpipe
New magniflow exhaust 2.5"
Lowered with NM kit
Black out trim and scoop

Honestly off the top of my head I am not sure what else atm. I was busy lol. Tune after I get this running without cel. I have a long weekend and expect it to be completed in a day or so. I must say I love the exhaust now. It pops and sounds mean as hell lol. Hard not stomping on it during the break in...

 

Here are a few pics from the project.

 

I let it run at 2k rpm for 25 min. Storm came in and had to get out lol.
Drained the oil and new filter
ran on the road 100 miles
new oil and filter and will repeat at 500, 1000, 2000 then normal
vary rpm and no redline.

Yes the head was redone. I think the area the vanos solenoid check valve is in didnt get cleaned out well. everything else looked great at assembly. I cleaned the area last night super well. oil filters have been fine so far.

I am going to check my timing and replace the vanos solenoid just because. I read the intake cam can move slightly after locking it down due to the vanos gear so I want to double check but it sounds great tbh but might be off slightly and need to verify and it only takes a little time.

 

DI uses cam timing to control air, the E throttle is more secondary as all mixing is done in the chamber, idle is adaptive it should learn the lambda corrections if there is no more crud then do a warm up drive and then let it idle for a good 30 min you should see cam maybe 20 deg ATC at sitting idle. I once had it at 35, also venting changes may take a bit to correct, It should be a bit different, when accelerating hard going into full map mode if it still seems a bit off then you need to remap, Record you logs then clear the ECU.