JCW OEM Factory Oil Analysis 2016 JCW
#1
OEM Factory Oil Analysis 2016 JCW
This is the oil that leaves the factory from MINI in England. JCW Mini 2.0L I-4 Turbo, Oil Grade 0W/20 @ 807miles.
I am sure others, not just myself are curious to know what is going on with the factory oil on a factory engine.
I wanted to know what kind of impurities etc were in the factory oil. I will call Blackstone at my convenience, to discuss in more details the results listed below. I do plan on keeping a record online through blackstone as well sending in follow up testing samples after each oil change.
I am only wondering if I did myself a disservice by changing the oil so soon (I put in 0w20 Royal Purple full synthetic) based on the initial comments by Blackstone technicians.
I am sure others, not just myself are curious to know what is going on with the factory oil on a factory engine.
I wanted to know what kind of impurities etc were in the factory oil. I will call Blackstone at my convenience, to discuss in more details the results listed below. I do plan on keeping a record online through blackstone as well sending in follow up testing samples after each oil change.
I am only wondering if I did myself a disservice by changing the oil so soon (I put in 0w20 Royal Purple full synthetic) based on the initial comments by Blackstone technicians.
Last edited by LormaD; 09-28-2016 at 05:42 PM.
#3
Wow, that's a lot of Moly!
I wonder if this is typical to the new BMW/Mini 0W-20 that is replacing the previous 5W-30 oil. The 5W-30 which is based on Shell/Penzoil Platinum GTL definitely does not have that much moly. ZDDP is inline with API SN requirements.
This is the second UOA I've seen for break-in oil change on the F56. Both yours and Ryphille shows a very clean UOA and very little wear during break in. If this is the trend for the F56 engine, one could argue that break-in oil change is not really needed.
I'm currently running RP HPS 5W-30, will send for UOA on my next oil change and we shall compare the results.
I wonder if this is typical to the new BMW/Mini 0W-20 that is replacing the previous 5W-30 oil. The 5W-30 which is based on Shell/Penzoil Platinum GTL definitely does not have that much moly. ZDDP is inline with API SN requirements.
This is the second UOA I've seen for break-in oil change on the F56. Both yours and Ryphille shows a very clean UOA and very little wear during break in. If this is the trend for the F56 engine, one could argue that break-in oil change is not really needed.
I'm currently running RP HPS 5W-30, will send for UOA on my next oil change and we shall compare the results.
#4
#5
that is pretty light for a 0w20 oil, wow. obviously within spec per blackstone but I just did a UOA with redline 0w20 in a different car, and the cst viscosity at 100c was 8.87. 450ppm of moly too. my theory is that these mini engines just like a lot of moly.
my uoa on 5w30 red line had 585ppm of moly:
https://r56hs.com/2016/08/23/mini-uoa-6/
my uoa on 5w30 red line had 585ppm of moly:
https://r56hs.com/2016/08/23/mini-uoa-6/
#6
This is the oil that leaves the factory from MINI in England. JCW Mini 2.0L I-4 Turbo, Oil Grade 0W/20 @ 807miles.
I am sure others, not just myself are curious to know what is going on with the factory oil on a factory engine.
I wanted to know what kind of impurities etc were in the factory oil. I will call Blackstone at my convenience, to discuss in more details the results listed below. I do plan on keeping a record online through blackstone as well sending in follow up testing samples after each oil change.
I am only wondering if I did myself a disservice by changing the oil so soon (I put in 0w20 Royal Purple full synthetic) based on the initial comments by Blackstone technicians.
I am sure others, not just myself are curious to know what is going on with the factory oil on a factory engine.
I wanted to know what kind of impurities etc were in the factory oil. I will call Blackstone at my convenience, to discuss in more details the results listed below. I do plan on keeping a record online through blackstone as well sending in follow up testing samples after each oil change.
I am only wondering if I did myself a disservice by changing the oil so soon (I put in 0w20 Royal Purple full synthetic) based on the initial comments by Blackstone technicians.
I don't catch the reason you seem so concerned.
#7
I think at one time people thought the "break in oil" that came with the car would rapidly accumulate metal particles from the brand new engine and that changing that oil soon after delivery would result is less engine wear, etc. I don't think that's been true in any car for a really long time, and this sort of proves it (again).
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#8
Thanks for posting this with the new 0-20w break in oil.
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Last edited by ECSTuning; 10-04-2016 at 04:58 AM.
#10
Curiosity and tradition
More so on this engine; The Dipstickless engine. It's a real pet peeve a mine.
I have had a factory engine with a broken oil ring before. True the engine is under warranty, but at the end of the day do you really want to go through the hassles of having a vehicle with a pulled engine, and reinstalled by a dealer?
If I had to do it over again, I would. I have the Royal Purple 0W20 in there now, and will probably run it into next year (car goes into storage in a month or so).
Once it get hot next early summer I will switch over to the Royal Purple 0W40 blend.
Cheers
#11
Proves nothing...
I think at one time people thought the "break in oil" that came with the car would rapidly accumulate metal particles from the brand new engine and that changing that oil soon after delivery would result is less engine wear, etc. I don't think that's been true in any car for a really long time, and this sort of proves it (again).
Cheers
#12
I have always changed my oil on the factory engines within a 1000 miles or so. However good or not the factory oil is, the way you drive the initial 5000 miles goes a longer way into breaking in the engine than the factory "break in" oil.
More so on this engine; The Dipstickless engine. It's a real pet peeve a mine.
I have had a factory engine with a broken oil ring before. True the engine is under warranty, but at the end of the day do you really want to go through the hassles of having a vehicle with a pulled engine, and reinstalled by a dealer?
If I had to do it over again, I would. I have the Royal Purple 0W20 in there now, and will probably run it into next year (car goes into storage in a month or so).
Once it get hot next early summer I will switch over to the Royal Purple 0W40 blend.
Cheers
More so on this engine; The Dipstickless engine. It's a real pet peeve a mine.
I have had a factory engine with a broken oil ring before. True the engine is under warranty, but at the end of the day do you really want to go through the hassles of having a vehicle with a pulled engine, and reinstalled by a dealer?
If I had to do it over again, I would. I have the Royal Purple 0W20 in there now, and will probably run it into next year (car goes into storage in a month or so).
Once it get hot next early summer I will switch over to the Royal Purple 0W40 blend.
Cheers
II go with the OEM specs and I cannot be wrong.
#14
where did i say...
I said I typically change a factory new vehicle oil after a 1000 miles or so. Not for the life of the vehicle.
sheesh...
#15
#16
I will use exclusively Royal Purple... so...
I will keep a record for myself, and change it myself. I want to use Royal Purple 0W40, for my intended use.
#19
I took my car in at 6k miles and had the oil changed on my dime. The service rep. Understood and didn't reset the counter so I'll be back at about 10k for my first service warrantee oil change.
The rep did insist that the new synthetics are good for 10+k miles. I think watching this thread will prove that out with the analysis you all are doing.
I told the rep it's my piece of mind and I'm an old car guy.... Sooo
As.far as environmental impact. Isn't this stuff sanitized and recycled?
The rep did insist that the new synthetics are good for 10+k miles. I think watching this thread will prove that out with the analysis you all are doing.
I told the rep it's my piece of mind and I'm an old car guy.... Sooo
As.far as environmental impact. Isn't this stuff sanitized and recycled?
#20
Unlike you, who dumps his oil down the drain, I take the time and courtesy to bring my oil to a recycling plant. I change it myself because unlike yourself, I know how to modify and take care of my car.
#21
However this information is old, maybe the EPA has finally cracked down.
#22
A lot of people make a big fuss about "break-in oil." I assume that a new engine is the same as a rebuilt engine, in the sense that special lubricants are applied to all bearing surfaces during assembly, and then ordinary motor oil is added to the assembled crankcase.
As the new engine breaks in, the thick bearing lubricant (I think it's moly grease) oozes out and mixes with the motor oil. I don't think there's any benefit to having the moly grease mixed with your motor oil. I don't know how long it takes for the grease leaches out fully. I think it's a good idea to change the break-in oil at 1,000 to 3,500 miles.
As the new engine breaks in, the thick bearing lubricant (I think it's moly grease) oozes out and mixes with the motor oil. I don't think there's any benefit to having the moly grease mixed with your motor oil. I don't know how long it takes for the grease leaches out fully. I think it's a good idea to change the break-in oil at 1,000 to 3,500 miles.
#24
#25
Certainly appears that the factory fill can last the full 9-10K that the car suggests with that TBN. I will likely run mine all the way out till the car tells me its time and hopefully I can get a sample from the drain to see what Blackstone has to say when the time comes.
Thanx everyone for sharing your analysis info!
Thanx everyone for sharing your analysis info!