Drivetrain "Since you're in there..."
#1
"Since you're in there..."
My R56 is in the good hands of Way at WayMotorWorks for a rebuild of the engine internals. It's already been modified quite a bit...
But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.
But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.
#2
My R56 is in the good hands of Way at WayMotorWorks for a rebuild of the engine internals. It's already been modified quite a bit...
But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.
But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.
#4
My R56 is in the good hands of Way at WayMotorWorks for a rebuild of the engine internals. It's already been modified quite a bit...
But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.
But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.
I'm always happy to help others spend their money!
#5
Will be moving into the assembly phase the first week of January.
Goodies include: 9.5:1 CP pistons and Carillo rods, WMW performance cams, Turbosmart plumbback, and an ECS Luft-Technik intake. Various other brake, bay and interior bits as well.
Looking forward to getting back behind the wheel of Buzz!
Goodies include: 9.5:1 CP pistons and Carillo rods, WMW performance cams, Turbosmart plumbback, and an ECS Luft-Technik intake. Various other brake, bay and interior bits as well.
Looking forward to getting back behind the wheel of Buzz!
#6
Does anyone have any expectations of what before and after is like between stock cams and these aftermarket ones?
We are getting our car to hold power right to 7,000 rpm on stock cams.
I'd like to know what people expect.
We are also running on an unmodified head.
Cheers and good luck with the build. :-)
RW
We are getting our car to hold power right to 7,000 rpm on stock cams.
I'd like to know what people expect.
We are also running on an unmodified head.
Cheers and good luck with the build. :-)
RW
#7
Before I selected my Cat Cams, I looked at the WMW selection. Since there were no specs on lift or duration, they were promptly eliminated as an option. Anyone have the WMW cam specs --- are they afraid to advertise specs 'cause they're not competitive with other hi performance cams?
As for comparison to OEM cams, I won't be able to help there --- too many other changes at the same time. I'm told that my Cat version, 1302603, will lose low-end performance while gaining at high-end. How this will combine with my other choices is TBD. We'll see what a dyno chart looks like --- at my current build rate, maybe this spring.
As for comparison to OEM cams, I won't be able to help there --- too many other changes at the same time. I'm told that my Cat version, 1302603, will lose low-end performance while gaining at high-end. How this will combine with my other choices is TBD. We'll see what a dyno chart looks like --- at my current build rate, maybe this spring.
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#8
Before I selected my Cat Cams, I looked at the WMW selection. Since there were no specs on lift or duration, they were promptly eliminated as an option. Anyone have the WMW cam specs --- are they afraid to advertise specs 'cause they're not competitive with other hi performance cams?
As for comparison to OEM cams, I won't be able to help there --- too many other changes at the same time. I'm told that my Cat version, 1302603, will lose low-end performance while gaining at high-end. How this will combine with my other choices is TBD. We'll see what a dyno chart looks like --- at my current build rate, maybe this spring.
As for comparison to OEM cams, I won't be able to help there --- too many other changes at the same time. I'm told that my Cat version, 1302603, will lose low-end performance while gaining at high-end. How this will combine with my other choices is TBD. We'll see what a dyno chart looks like --- at my current build rate, maybe this spring.
#10
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
My R56 is in the good hands of Way at WayMotorWorks for a rebuild of the engine internals. It's already been modified quite a bit...
But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.
But here's my question for you: since the engine'll be out of the car and apart, what else would you do? What'd be on your "since you're in there..." list.
I would also suggest a modest suspension upgrade with the IE Fixed Camber Plates.
Last edited by Eddie07S; 12-26-2016 at 01:32 PM. Reason: typo
#11
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Think about porting the head; then match manifolds to ported head. If new compression ratio is lower, maybe hi-lift cams, lift/duration depending on ultimate usage. Valve springs to keep up with cams? While it's apart, how about an LSD for the tranny? And then there's a lighter clutch/flywheel for some awesome acceleration. There's more (not necessarily internal) if you're trying for 300+ numbers --- I need some healthy competition.
I'm always happy to help others spend their money!
I'm always happy to help others spend their money!
Last edited by Eddie07S; 12-26-2016 at 01:38 PM. Reason: typo
#13
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Nothing wrong with having an automatic. These cars are just as quick with an auto as they are with a stick. And I know people who run them on the track and do quite well with them.
However, I'm not sure what you are referring to about doing a conversion. Is it with respect to what we suggested?
However, I'm not sure what you are referring to about doing a conversion. Is it with respect to what we suggested?
#14
Definitely unapologetic about the auto ... paddling the Dragon and Wayah and all those other nearby mountain twisties is a blast.
Other thoughts? Can't lower unless I ditch my FSDs (not anytime soon). The engine's got maybe 2-3k on it, but this build resets that clock anyway, and everything else (pumps, etc.) is new.
Other thoughts? Can't lower unless I ditch my FSDs (not anytime soon). The engine's got maybe 2-3k on it, but this build resets that clock anyway, and everything else (pumps, etc.) is new.
#15
Nothing wrong with having an automatic. These cars are just as quick with an auto as they are with a stick. And I know people who run them on the track and do quite well with them.
However, I'm not sure what you are referring to about doing a conversion. Is it with respect to what we suggested?
However, I'm not sure what you are referring to about doing a conversion. Is it with respect to what we suggested?
Do people race with it in full auto mode ? Just wondering.
-Mike
#16
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
I'm curious how you'd drive competively w/ the auto. All my Minis were auto (current is '14 MCSa) and I drive exclusively in 'manual' mode. It drives me nuts when it downshifts by itself; I let it upshift if the r's are near the top end.
Do people race with it in full auto mode ? Just wondering.
-Mike
Do people race with it in full auto mode ? Just wondering.
-Mike
#17
I'm far from a good driver, but when I did a HDPE at watkins glen this year, I left it in full auto and sport mode. It shifts up by itself at 6500, and downshifts under braking. Occasional odd downshifts (feels painful to go wide open and downshift to 6000 coming out of a corner), but it allowed this newbie to try and concentrate on lines and braking.
Mike
Mike
#19
Brief update: Christmas brought a few goodies to be added (including the beautiful ECS Tuning Kohlefaser Luft-Technik Intake). Machine shop's next up: Here's a majority of the engine, just prior to being shipped off for balance + assembly.
I'm midway through doing the Joey mod (black + mellow yellow projector rings) while I wait... painful to cook apart the lights, but straightforward otherwise.
I'm midway through doing the Joey mod (black + mellow yellow projector rings) while I wait... painful to cook apart the lights, but straightforward otherwise.
#22
#24
People often want to hear about a short run in period but its your hard earned cash that was involved in the build so you should protect it properly with a calm run in.
I look forward to hearing other opinions
SRW
#25
"Back when I had my bike shop I would break in my motors by driving down the road bringing each gear up in the rpms and let the motor drag back down to a lower rpm and shift and do the same in the next gear. Slowly I would increase the rpm before the next shift but I ALWAYS let the motor drag down to lower rpm before shifting. About 10-15 min drive doing this. I'm a firm believer in breaking in the rings on boths sides and by letting the motor drag down in rpms you breaking in the back side. Then we would load it on the trailer and go to the drag strip. There we would make 3 passes increasing the shift points higher and higher till at normal max rpm. "
The other response was similar in accel / decel handling. Neither one is safe to do in city driving, but I'm out in the boondocks with lotsa wide open hiway --- hiway 50 in Northern NV --- "the loneliest road in the country".
Try doing a search on "engine break-in" for other opinions.