Is this a cracked strut cap?
#1
Is this a cracked strut cap?
I've had some pinging/creaking noises when making low speed right hand turns (such as parking lot maneuvers). I was looking through past threads around NAM when I saw someone describe similar noises, so I went and checked. This is what I found
My questions:
1. Am I looking at a cracked strut tower cap?
2. Is part #31306778833 the correct part to repair this?
3. Should I do both sides at once, or only the offending side?
My questions:
1. Am I looking at a cracked strut tower cap?
2. Is part #31306778833 the correct part to repair this?
3. Should I do both sides at once, or only the offending side?
#2
OK, I've answered my own question that it IS a strut mount.
I read that someone had issues w/ a Moog replacement. What about MasterPro?
EDIT
Nevermind, I just found that Pelicanparts has OEM units for about the same money as Autozone and O'Reilly have 3rd party mounts.
I read that someone had issues w/ a Moog replacement. What about MasterPro?
EDIT
Nevermind, I just found that Pelicanparts has OEM units for about the same money as Autozone and O'Reilly have 3rd party mounts.
Last edited by ST3ALTHPSYCH0; 05-02-2017 at 11:54 AM.
#3
#5
I would also add strut tower protection plates and correct any mushrooming at the same time. There are plates for the top or bottom of the tower, and it's debatable on which is better. I went with VIP top mounts and the optional strut tower bar. If you don't care about the bar, Cravenspeed and ECS also have good top mounts.
#7
OK, I've definitely got some mushrooming going on. The defenders look like a great idea, but this is a seriously unexpected expense. I know a guy w/ a machine shop (and I have access to a plasma cutter myself). If I fab up my own, do I make the center opening 2.5" like the opening in the strut tower or 3", which is the size of the lower bevel below said hole?
Also, could someone confirm that the Lemfoerder mounts I linked are a worthwhile purchase?
Thank you all.
EDIT:
I'm looking to cut an under plate, BTW. So I need to know if and under plate needs a 2.5 or 3" hole. Thanks
Also, could someone confirm that the Lemfoerder mounts I linked are a worthwhile purchase?
Thank you all.
EDIT:
I'm looking to cut an under plate, BTW. So I need to know if and under plate needs a 2.5 or 3" hole. Thanks
Last edited by ST3ALTHPSYCH0; 05-03-2017 at 06:02 AM.
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#11
If you are on a budget and as it appears you are handy with tools, you could make a strut brace that mounts below. Some 1/8" to 3/16" flat stock would work, could use the strut mount as a template. Would need longer bolts. This only addresses the mushrooming so you still need to replace the cracked mount.
This does affect the camber. I used the bottom mount on my R53 and did not have issues. I used the car for my DD and put over 30k miles on.
This does affect the camber. I used the bottom mount on my R53 and did not have issues. I used the car for my DD and put over 30k miles on.
#12
If you are on a budget and as it appears you are handy with tools, you could make a strut brace that mounts below. Some 1/8" to 3/16" flat stock would work, could use the strut mount as a template. Would need longer bolts. This only addresses the mushrooming so you still need to replace the cracked mount.
This does affect the camber. I used the bottom mount on my R53 and did not have issues. I used the car for my DD and put over 30k miles on.
This does affect the camber. I used the bottom mount on my R53 and did not have issues. I used the car for my DD and put over 30k miles on.
#14
Holy crap! UPS shipping indicates that I'll have my order from PelicanParts tomorrow already (and I just chose free ground shipping)!
I thought I'd start w/ just cutting one extra set to gauge interest as a one off. If there's demand I could see setting up as a vendor, but this many years later I don't imagine that there are that many remaining first gens that haven't had this done yet.
I thought I'd start w/ just cutting one extra set to gauge interest as a one off. If there's demand I could see setting up as a vendor, but this many years later I don't imagine that there are that many remaining first gens that haven't had this done yet.
#15
#16
So, since I don't have access to a powder coat facility, and I'm making this out of mild steel to prevent breakage, I'm considering spraying the pieces w/ undercoat for corrosion resistance. Does anyone have any thoughts pro or con to that? My only fear is that a thicker material like that, while being robust, would prevent proper torquing of the nuts that hold the suspension bits.
#17
#18
I went to change my strut mounts this past weekend, but ran into a complication. The nut on the top of shock is so tight it twisted 3 different allen wrenches before the hex stripped out. Anybody have suggestions on removing without further damage to an otherwise good shock replaced by a shop not too long ago?
#19
I went to change my strut mounts this past weekend, but ran into a complication. The nut on the top of shock is so tight it twisted 3 different allen wrenches before the hex stripped out. Anybody have suggestions on removing without further damage to an otherwise good shock replaced by a shop not too long ago?
Last edited by Whine not Walnuts; 05-11-2017 at 08:43 AM.
#20
You're talking about the one that secures the strut to the mount? I didn't have to counter hold it at all to take it off w/ an impact. going back on, I just reached through the spring w/ a leather glove to hold the strut shaft... then again, I didn't realize there was a torque spec to that nut and just blasted it on w/ the impact.... I may live to regret that.
Last edited by Whine not Walnuts; 05-11-2017 at 08:43 AM.
#21
#22
Do one better. Follow the formula and make your own penetrating oil. I seriously was able to reuse my pinch bolts, and I was able to thread them back in by hand until the last ~1/4" or so!!
#23
You're talking about the one that secures the strut to the mount? I didn't have to counter hold it at all to take it off w/ an impact. going back on, I just reached through the spring w/ a leather glove to hold the strut shaft... then again, I didn't realize there was a torque spec to that nut and just blasted it on w/ the impact.... I may live to regret that.
I have and used an impact, but it just spun the shaft.
#24
#25
Edit: Just be safe. I'm still a bit scared of working w/ compressed springs from the stories I've been told. Truthfully, I'd consider the vise grips on the old strut. I can assure you that a leather glove and your hand will be enough to prevent the new from spinning.