Suspension Diy rear camber arms!
#26
#27
Well got the parts today and very first impression is, great! Everything seems to be solid and nothing stands out to be an issue. I went with a 17 inch center shaft. With the ends threaded Into the center shaft and measured out to the same length as the stock ones, There is 3/4 of an inch threaded Into the center shaft. I feel that is more than enough to be "safe" if you want more, then go with the 18 inch bar. But once you start getting more positive camber more will be threaded in. Overall first impression is a good one! Just have to install them and get an alignment and just drive on them and see how they last. But for 83 bucks in materials I'm willing to give it a shot. Also I went with forged steel ends that are zinc plated. You can go with polished stainless ends if you want it to look better. But since it's under the car I did not care.
2 rod sleeves
2 LH threaded ends
2 RH threaded ends
2 LH threaded jam nuts
2 RH threaded jam nuts
#28
yeah they are reversed threaded, I just went with aluminium, you can get steel and or chromoly. But the aluminum is 6061 and should be more than strong enough.
#29
The widest part on the ends that I got (bushing with) makes the endlink 1.397 inches wide. The width of the slot in the knuckle is 1.547 inches. Little different, but not somthing crazy. I'll just have a shim made if I feel it's necessary, will see once I start installing.
#30
#33
#34
Well finally got some time to install the rear lower control arms. Everything went smooth and had no issues. There is a little size difference between the ends and the stock ends but nothing a few washer couldn't fix. I Think I got 7/8 flat washers and put on both sides of the ends. Filled the gap nice and once installed everything snugged down like it should! Now just to get and alignment and see how well the last.
#35
Well finally got some time to install the rear lower control arms. Everything went smooth and had no issues. There is a little size difference between the ends and the stock ends but nothing a few washer couldn't fix. I Think I got 7/8 flat washers and put on both sides of the ends. Filled the gap nice and once installed everything snugged down like it should! Now just to get and alignment and see how well the last.
#36
Nice DIY!!! Cost of adjustable rear control arms is part of what prevented me from picking up a used set of lowering springs last week.
FYI, you can go all aluminum and stainless for ~$20 more.
Screen cap of cart w/ part #s included for great justice!! (Could someone w/ a vendor set of adjustable arms confirm the length of the tube?)
FYI, you can go all aluminum and stainless for ~$20 more.
Screen cap of cart w/ part #s included for great justice!! (Could someone w/ a vendor set of adjustable arms confirm the length of the tube?)
#37
When installing the control arms what is the torque Spec for the bolts? So far all is good I've been driving on these for a few weeks now and they are holding up great. Lock nuts are not coming loose so far so good except for a popping noise. The first week there wasn't a noise and now it's consistent when going over bumps or the car is articulating. These ends as re 5mm narrower that the stock so I filled the space with a flat washed on either side. I can get them to tighten right down and have everything tight but I'm wondering if it's to tight and it's keeping the arm from moving when the wheel goes up and down and that's where I'm getting the popping sound.? It doesn't seem like the washers would affect anything because the the stock arm has metal that is in contact with the mounting surface. But I'm also wondering if it could be that the washer as not physically attached to the end and that is moving differently then the end when the wheel moves? Hmmm
#38
Nice DIY!!! Cost of adjustable rear control arms is part of what prevented me from picking up a used set of lowering springs last week.
FYI, you can go all aluminum and stainless for ~$20 more.
Screen cap of cart w/ part #s included for great justice!! (Could someone w/ a vendor set of adjustable arms confirm the length of the tube?)
FYI, you can go all aluminum and stainless for ~$20 more.
Screen cap of cart w/ part #s included for great justice!! (Could someone w/ a vendor set of adjustable arms confirm the length of the tube?)
Yeah, I could have went with the stainless ends but I figured since it's under the car np one would see it.
#39
When installing the control arms what is the torque Spec for the bolts? So far all is good I've been driving on these for a few weeks now and they are holding up great. Lock nuts are not coming loose so far so good except for a popping noise. The first week there wasn't a noise and now it's consistent when going over bumps or the car is articulating. These ends as re 5mm narrower that the stock so I filled the space with a flat washed on either side. I can get them to tighten right down and have everything tight but I'm wondering if it's to tight and it's keeping the arm from moving when the wheel goes up and down and that's where I'm getting the popping sound.? It doesn't seem like the washers would affect anything because the the stock arm has metal that is in contact with the mounting surface. But I'm also wondering if it could be that the washer as not physically attached to the end and that is moving differently then the end when the wheel moves? Hmmm
#40
I would be more concerned about the corrosion over time rather than the looks. Chainlink fence posts are zinc plated too, after all. I'm definitely watching this thread though. I'll be doing this for adjustable rears if I ever lower my car!
#42
yeah I'm going to pull them out and see if I can close the gap without them and if I can see if that eliminates the popping spund. If it works this will save people money if not it was a good try haha.
#43
#45
#46
they are tight, I put the stock arms back on and the sound is gone, so it deff was coming from the smaller end links. Either way I'm going to get this figured out so we have a cheaper option to choose from.
#47
Well I found a company in Cali that can male me a bushing to the exact size I need. The outer sleeve is quarter wall they said it would be think enough to weld a 5/8 rod to so I can thread it into my bar. But I'm wondering if that would hold over time or if the metal will get hard and be a weak point. Or I could just get a heim joint and have my friend Mill up some spacers kinda like the alta setup. Not sure what I wanna do.
#49
Would something like this work better?
#50