Different spring rate, different spring length, and different car weight(and weight balance)..

Sorry my setup won't help you a lot, but for the shock setting, I do use 3 clicks from the hardest for the front, and 2-3 clicks from the hardest for the rear.
Depends on track and wheel/tire setup(I am forced to use 215/45 17 V720 tires on four corners which I don't really like - so I adjust the tire pressure/shock rebound to compromise that)

 

oh, I missed on that flappers,, may be I need to try that too.
I will let you know if I ever get to cut the lower front grille out to free the intercooler and if that makes any difference.

 

Thanks for the information.

What spring rates and lengths are you using since I am using the stock Ohlins springs. Interested in alternate set-ups. BTW Great thread, enjoy following you adventures.

 

400/425 and rear springs are an inch shorter than Ohlins'.(fronts are the same) But you gotta remember, my car has pretty different setup in terms of weight and aero. And the alignment can be the key factor too. You can't just put the same springs on normally weighing cooper s. Will cause trouble. And road&track is not a shock offers heighr adjustment with the shock body length. That will add more headache.

 

seems light on the springs, especially on the front

 

Your points are well taken. Just comparing to what I have and the old setup with the D2 dampers/ swift springs. I will use what I have now and adjust damper rates and tire pressures to obtain a better handle.

 

This was awesome!!! Just read from page 1 at work and it´s insane how much I've learned. I can't believe I never ran into this thread before and I'm also the guy that asked you about the tow hook in one of your youtube videos ....I was like wait a minute....I've seen this video before!

I have my own thread here on NAM:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...g-monster.html

And I'm glad I went the handling route. Special shoutout to Eddie who I also see is very active on here. Helped me out a lot! .

Now I did get a lot of ideas from you but unfortunately it is my daily driver haha so I can only go to a certain extent. . My current setup for my 2012 Cooper S N18 Automatic (I know ...should I change? ) is: All JCW upgrades except for Recaros, R112 Challenge Wheels, Milltek Catless Downpipe, Citroen DS3R Spark plugs (match and one degree colder), 26mm FSB and 20mm RSB Eibach, Pro Kit Eibach Springs, Royal Purple 10w40, Rear Seat Delete, Power Flex Control Arm Purple Bushings, IE Fixed Front Camber Plates, Rear H-Sport Control Arms

I popped my track cherry about a month ago and now I'm an addict . I have my first auto-x event this weekend and another track day in November! I'm gonna get a set of 215/45/17 Nankang NS-2Rs to go along with my setup since I currently have street tires (Toyo Proxes T1R 215/45/17).

For 2017, I was debating two paths, Engine vs. Interior...but reading of how you kept your engine stock most of the way and only added the JB+, now I'm leaning towards interior, which would include racing seats and the schroth quick fit harness...to hold me in place while cornering. However, as far as under the hood goes, like you, I was also considering getting a FMIC and NM charge/discharge tubes...but I was going to tag it along with a tune (Manic)....but then you came in with that fastest mini without a ECU tune and I deleted Manic from my mod list hahaha. I'm also from Chile so things available locally are limited.

I would really appreciate your feedback on what I have described above!

And ofcourse, subscribed!

 

If you have not already I would change the intercooler to a Helix and get a manic tune for the motor. Mine also in a DD and have had the tune for over a year works well on street and track.

I agree Eddie is a great source of information. Have shared parts with him. He has a great cooling duct setup for the front brake which I look to fab and put on my car.

 

Thanks. I only try to suggest alternatives and I also try to share things I have learned. mini_aaron has been fun to follow, and, as he pointed out, I have followed him for a while now.

 

It's been a year since my last visit to NAM / Minitorque forum.
I wanted to quickly update couple of pictures show the way I have been through that year. more coming.











And a video "Gutting out the whole interior" :

 

Wow, your mods have gone a little further than mine
My big mod this year was to put in wheel studs to replace the bolts.

I never did figure out how to route a brake duct hose to the front wheels. Even a 2" hose would need a lot of work, especially if I want to keep it street-able. I have done up some "air catchers" into the brake dust shields that have made a difference. I am thinking of expanding on those a bit more.

Let us know how the car is going. The video was short and the exposure was a little off in the track part of your video...

 

Good to hear from you, yes, the brake ducting need "compromise of streetability" I am replacing the hose every season(sometimes in the middle), since the hose is now a wear-tear item.
Soon to update more news!

 

So the story continues.

Green Turtle from CANADA keep up the step.. Big step this time.


I had a road map of the build in my mind, and 2016 winter was the time to make my car dedicated to track use. Almost if not 100%.
Interior gutting is done by myself and my friends.







Unnecessary panels.











Unnecessary belts.













Why did I paid more $ for black head liner.. 0
Gutted.















And harmann kardon option was just a WASTE.
(ah... Yes I have been enjoying the sound for like 5-6 years...)











Bombs are removed as well.
Those bombs are heavy and dangerous.
(Actually, Rollcage+Proper helmet and FHR+Properly installed harness is way safer than typical airbag+tensioner method.)













Who need heater on race track??













Weighed.
Sunroof mechanism - 97.75kg...
Haha I was on the scale with the sunroof.
So the parts only is like 25kgs.
The green turlte finally took it's 25kgs hat off!!!












Since there will be new front end structure in, Heavy(and safe..) bumper rail is gone, too.
7.36kg and the front (very)end.












After done with basic gutting, the deep care starts.












Thank I didn't throw those CANADIAN used snow flowing gloves(thinsulate) when I move to Korea.
DRYICE deep care method.











KLEEN~~~~~













After that, I transported my car to my friend's race body shop, called 2K BODY.












After have consultation, I decided to go with local Sprint regulation in terms of cage material / piping diameters.


I didn't want to go with JAPANESE style kamikaze super light structure, nor German style PANZER tank super heavy structure.


My setup is in the middle.





















New roof.
OEM, corrosion coated from the factory. Not a dry carbon one, but still Super light.












I visited the factory many times for discussion.
We are making something never done. (New front structure)












Schirra Motoring parts will be on.












Initial front structure(before paint/finallize).
But that was a year ago, actually my car have completely different design for front structure now.
But that old version was good as well.















Schirra-Motoring parts.
Proven, Light, Functional(release lifting pressure in the wheel house)












Green turtle is back to office.
Winter tires were on cuz I didn't want to damage my RE71Rs during this winter job.












So the turtle is back, but still dead.












Do you want to see how light the car was?
Stock sport suspension was back in(Ohlins was being re-valved/serviced),
That was the fender gap with stock size tires, stock suspension.
After this intense diet method, one full hand is going through, not fingers.











I had to make it resurracted.
All the connectors, Wirings had to be back in(except for unused modules).












Also, interior panels are being made.


















12v power is precious.
So my car is not 100% race spec yet.

















I didn't wanted to make my car's interior full of duck tapes to cover holes.
There are 20~30 holes in the body, I removed them to prep the body for painting.
And here I ordered brand new oem rubber plugs.










New valving, Adjusted rod travel, Overhaul.
Now Ohlins Korea is sponsoring me and my green turtle with unlimited full service/alteration free of charge.
So that I can try whatever I want to. (And testify specific setup for each tracks)


Stay tuned.

 

Impressive, very interesting build.
Ben

 

mini_aaron - I owe you an update about oil temperatures and you may already know all of this but I let you know anyway.

It turns out that there is a little auxiliary water pump that pumps coolant up to the turbocharger bearings. Mine died back in late 2015 which gave me really high oil temps at my track events in 2016. Then, late 2016 my thermostat died. In getting the thermostat replaced I asked if there was anyway to check out that auxiliary water pump. Word came back that there was a buried code in the computer that said that it was dead. After getting that fixed, during my 2017 track events my oil temps stayed below 260 degF, which is a big difference from before.

 

Thank you! I just don't want to just copy other builder's work in terms of aero, shape, concept. That way I could be able to keep make my build "very interesting". :D

 

Great to hear from you.
Yes I exactly know what pump you are talking about. In the middle of the season, I had a crash and the plastic nipple of the pump broken. haha So I know what it is. Good for you that you have solved the temperature issue. Now you have added one more experience page in your build book. :D
I feel that it's all about time and experience, we should be the one who knows about our MINI most. (Not general things but at least specific things like cause/effect, repair history)

 

Engine start up!!!



So, after the long long winter update, I kind of made the car drivable-for-now,
decided to take it for a spin.

I confess here, I was really concerned that if the car can be driven hard on track without any possible troubles.

Who knows, since entire front end structure has been re worked, huge front splitters now directly connected to the chassis.
Also, electrically, I took all the connectors off from the modules and re connected, and most of the modules were gone.
For the body structure, I didn't know how the roll cage affect to the car's maneuver/grip balance.

I was curious, but also nervous at the same time.





Wanted to have it dynoed.







I was running JB+, number was strong as always.
"mid" setup(boost 0.7 bar), the car was putting 185whp,
"high" setup(boost 1.1 bar as I remember), 205whp.







The Squadron.
Time to see if the green turtle can be hold in one piece.







The turtle was groupped with higher powered, track prepped RWD cars due to potential lap time.
The turtle was the only and sole FWD car in the group.









Crews helped me to set the tire pressure.
I was running with 185~190hp setup, since it was "shake down", not "attack".
Compared to 2016 season, same wheels and tires, same level of power, but totally different chassis now.


Korea International Circuit, short course.
Lap time from 2016 was 1:31.30.

and.. after 3 sessions of test, the new lap time is...

1:29.30









ranked in 60th place in the amatuer driver's lap board.
I was able to get into "28 seconds range", but the car's revised turn-in characteristics made me struggle with some dynamic corners like T9-10(last ones).




Watch this : (possible 28 second lap onboard)








So the test was successful, proven how far MINI can go.
(Since it was just a beginning of ver 2.0)









Also had chance to ride on Radical SR3 RSX.








In the following month, I took the turtle to INJE speedium, FIA Grade 2 circuit with mountain-like layout.




Shake down in Inje Speedium : Video




Also didn't want to do too much(means,, didn't take too many sessions so that I can correct mistakes in the record lap above), since it is just a beginning.

1:52:00 lap time.







41st in the lap board with radial tires. (Yes the Bridgestone 71R is almighty for the short lappings)


What a start for the season. I could have shave more laptimes and put more money/effort on the car and make it even faster.
(Since it is already doing not bad with 200 whp rating power range, and there were more things to gutted out.)

But, I had something else in my mind for the 2017 season.

To be continued...

 

Nicely done!
Nice driving and good save there.
A suggestion, try using a little less of the curbing. It is unbalancing the car too much which may be costing you some time. Your car is a lot stiffer with the roll cage and can’t absorb those bumps. If you ever watch the IMSA races you will notice that the P1 cars don’t hit the curbs at all.

 

I prefer to hit the curbs and make the car shift weight to the outside

 

It was just the last turn in that first video (of that last post) where he hit the curbing hard enough that he lifted off the throttle as he came back down.

 

Thank you so much for the valuable replies,
Ross Bentley has left a nice anawer on this:

Q: “I have seen on some racetracks sometimes driver skip the apex ‘kerb.’ I mean they do not go for those red and white kerb. Instead, they turn far away from the apex and quickly back to straight line. Does this supposed save time and make the car go faster? I have seen it in Formula One sometime as well. It might be in Hungary Grand Prix. Could you please clear the idea for me? Is it always necessary to touch the kerb in the middle of a corner (apex)?”
A: Clipping or driving right over the apex curbing (kerb) is a method of straightening the corner out as much as possible, making the radius as large as possible. The larger the radius of the line you drive through a corner, the faster you can go. That’s simple physics.
The tradeoff is that the curbing can upset the car, and cause it to have less grip. Less grip means you have to drive slower. So, there is a balance or compromise between maximizing the radius of the corners by driving over the curbs versus the curb upsetting the balance of the car. That’s why you’ll see some drivers running over some curbs, but not others. They’ve tested out which curbs can be used, and which ones can’t. Of course, a curb might be okay for one car with suspension that is more compliant, whereas another car with a stiffer setup might lose too much grip by driving over the same curb. So, it’s car-dependent.


You are right, on that video, I could have go on throttle before the curbing(I didn’t lift, I couldn’t start gas that early).
For the driving line, fwd car drivers, we normally we “eat” the first curbing of the last corner and the path we take that way gives better pavement overally compared to not doing that, eventhough car little upsets due to stepping on the curb.