Suspension Lowered last week, blown CV Boot discovered today!
#1
Lowered last week, blown CV Boot discovered today!
Has anyone else come across something like this?
I got the NM springs put on last week and waited a week for them to settle to get the alignment done today. Now it's spit grease all over the arm and the CV boot on the driver's side is wrecked. Passenger side is fine though...
Has anyone else had this happen? If so, is the boot replacement enough or do I need to do the whole axle? And if I do, will it happen again?
Thanks for any help!
I got the NM springs put on last week and waited a week for them to settle to get the alignment done today. Now it's spit grease all over the arm and the CV boot on the driver's side is wrecked. Passenger side is fine though...
Has anyone else had this happen? If so, is the boot replacement enough or do I need to do the whole axle? And if I do, will it happen again?
Thanks for any help!
#2
Has anyone else come across something like this?
I got the NM springs put on last week and waited a week for them to settle to get the alignment done today. Now it's spit grease all over the arm and the CV boot on the driver's side is wrecked. Passenger side is fine though...
Has anyone else had this happen? If so, is the boot replacement enough or do I need to do the whole axle? And if I do, will it happen again?
Thanks for any help!
I got the NM springs put on last week and waited a week for them to settle to get the alignment done today. Now it's spit grease all over the arm and the CV boot on the driver's side is wrecked. Passenger side is fine though...
Has anyone else had this happen? If so, is the boot replacement enough or do I need to do the whole axle? And if I do, will it happen again?
Thanks for any help!
Boot should be enough, you haven't run that long for the joint to run dry.
#7
So they claimed ignorance like I thought they would, and they won't just replace the boot saying it's essentially too much work, and repair itself fails a lot, requiring a replacement axle assembly anyway.
This sounds like BS to me, so I'm looking for more help. I was resigned to just get another assembly and have them replace it, but apparently F56 axles are made of gold and just as rare as I can't find many sites that have them, and the ones that do want $500 for them! HELP!
This sounds like BS to me, so I'm looking for more help. I was resigned to just get another assembly and have them replace it, but apparently F56 axles are made of gold and just as rare as I can't find many sites that have them, and the ones that do want $500 for them! HELP!
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#8
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Clutch Wotan (03-28-2018)
#10
#11
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Mazarin (03-27-2018)
#13
The left drive shaft i have changed 4 times, you don't get single joints you have to buy the expensive assembly. whereby it only concern the joint and boot a the engine side.
Autobild a weekly car magazine (#1) did mention this as well, according to them MINI has improved quality, whatever that means ( 11mm longer )
I have taken the article to my MINI dealer and ask for a refund of 4 driveshaft assemblies aka 3200 Euro
ww.autobild.de/artikel/mini-f56-gebrauchtwagen-test-13304601.html
#14
#19
How do you know that the joint didn't got hurt, on my 1st out of 4 experiences it was also only the boot, if the grease comes out the chance that the bearing gets hurt is big. I also replaced it first and than 3 further weeks to hear the joint.
Again its not the boot its the complete assembly, take the driveshaft of the passenger side which is 7mm longer and mount your joints, than you can even use the adjustable chamber bushings from Powerflex, or buy a 11mm longer driveshaft. For serious players change the tripods engine side against traditional 8-Ball bearing, for higher torque over 400nm this is helpful.
Again its not the boot its the complete assembly, take the driveshaft of the passenger side which is 7mm longer and mount your joints, than you can even use the adjustable chamber bushings from Powerflex, or buy a 11mm longer driveshaft. For serious players change the tripods engine side against traditional 8-Ball bearing, for higher torque over 400nm this is helpful.
#20
How do you know that the joint didn't got hurt, on my 1st out of 4 experiences it was also only the boot, if the grease comes out the chance that the bearing gets hurt is big. I also replaced it first and than 3 further weeks to hear the joint.
Again its not the boot its the complete assembly, take the driveshaft of the passenger side which is 7mm longer and mount your joints, than you can even use the adjustable chamber bushings from Powerflex, or buy a 11mm longer driveshaft. For serious players change the tripods engine side against traditional 8-Ball bearing, for higher torque over 400nm this is helpful.
Again its not the boot its the complete assembly, take the driveshaft of the passenger side which is 7mm longer and mount your joints, than you can even use the adjustable chamber bushings from Powerflex, or buy a 11mm longer driveshaft. For serious players change the tripods engine side against traditional 8-Ball bearing, for higher torque over 400nm this is helpful.
Dealer techs in the US don't "rebuild" things, they replace complete components.
#21
No true you get single joints, for BMW and MINI but the F56 is simply a sweet cherry on the top where they sell you complete assemblies to make money out of their own faulty design. If MINI can do anything than this, don't know any manufacturer who sells for fake scoops even a fake carbon version, Iam sure the side panel and its lines around the indicator are just a mould to install side scuttles, of course only through certified personal.
#22
No true you get single joints, for BMW and MINI but the F56 is simply a sweet cherry on the top where they sell you complete assemblies to make money out of their own faulty design. If MINI can do anything than this, don't know any manufacturer who sells for fake scoops even a fake carbon version, Iam sure the side panel and its lines around the indicator are just a mould to install side scuttles, of course only through certified personal.
Dealer techs in the US don't "rebuild" things, they replace complete components.
I had a noise in the front end, they replaced COMPLETE ARMS, rather than pressing out the bushings, and installing.
#23
what is rebuild on a GENUINE joint :-) or are MINI workshops not in a position to swap them. Noises and vibrations also can result from the driveshaft.
http://www.gknservice.com/fileadmin/..._SPIDAN_DE.pdf
http://www.gknservice.com/fileadmin/..._SPIDAN_DE.pdf
#24
Let me rephrase.
They would rather replace the complete axle assembly, than replace a joint and boot.
The word rebuild is used loosely by me.
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