Suspension Any feedback on ST 90250 coilovers?
#1
#2
ST is owned by KW. Are there better systems out there? Of course. Are there worse systems out there? I do believe so. Is the car going to drive like a Cadillac? No, and it never did.
Would think they are similar to the other units in that price range and if you do some searches there are threads here about them.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-the-r53.html
Would think they are similar to the other units in that price range and if you do some searches there are threads here about them.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-the-r53.html
#3
I think several people are running those coilovers on the forum. You might have more luck finding reviews by searching for ST-X coilovers. Here’s one of the more informative threads for those coilovers on a 2nd gen: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pictures.html
Here’s my experience and with ST’s, although on a 1st gen and ST-XTA’s. The ST-XTA’s handle a lot better and are less harsh than stock, even with the coilovers lowered a fair amount. The difference between the X and XTA coilovers are adjustable damping, linear springs, and adjustable front camber plates. Other than height, my XTA’s are set as installed straight from the box.
As far as I know, the only difference between ST-X’s and KW v1’s are the what the shock bodies are made of, and the warranty. If you drive a lot in wet or snowy areas and plan to keep your car for a long time, I would think twice on the ST’s because they only have galvanized bodies vs stainless steel/Inox used for the KW’s. If your using factory 17’s, you’ll probably have to run at least a 5mm spacer to clear the lower spring perch on the front. This was also the case with the XTA’s, even with the skinnier linear springs.
Also, ST usually has a rebate/sale, or two, every year and future use gift cards are sometimes included by ECS Tuning at the same time increasing the savings.
Here’s my experience and with ST’s, although on a 1st gen and ST-XTA’s. The ST-XTA’s handle a lot better and are less harsh than stock, even with the coilovers lowered a fair amount. The difference between the X and XTA coilovers are adjustable damping, linear springs, and adjustable front camber plates. Other than height, my XTA’s are set as installed straight from the box.
As far as I know, the only difference between ST-X’s and KW v1’s are the what the shock bodies are made of, and the warranty. If you drive a lot in wet or snowy areas and plan to keep your car for a long time, I would think twice on the ST’s because they only have galvanized bodies vs stainless steel/Inox used for the KW’s. If your using factory 17’s, you’ll probably have to run at least a 5mm spacer to clear the lower spring perch on the front. This was also the case with the XTA’s, even with the skinnier linear springs.
Also, ST usually has a rebate/sale, or two, every year and future use gift cards are sometimes included by ECS Tuning at the same time increasing the savings.
#4
Thanks for the replies.
I plan on running the oem 16 Rims.
I do do live in Canada- we get a lot of snow and the roads are heavily salted in winter....
cant justify moving to the KW V1 ...
i think if set the height one aummmer - I wouldn’t need to adjust it.
its nice to hear that they can potentially ride better than the oem set up.
Im debating a Bilstien sport + lowering springs VS the entry lever ST coilover set up. Lowering springs have certainty lowered the car but never achieved the look I wanted. I’m sure the adjustable coilovera will.
Thanks so much for the feedback.
I plan on running the oem 16 Rims.
I do do live in Canada- we get a lot of snow and the roads are heavily salted in winter....
cant justify moving to the KW V1 ...
i think if set the height one aummmer - I wouldn’t need to adjust it.
its nice to hear that they can potentially ride better than the oem set up.
Im debating a Bilstien sport + lowering springs VS the entry lever ST coilover set up. Lowering springs have certainty lowered the car but never achieved the look I wanted. I’m sure the adjustable coilovera will.
Thanks so much for the feedback.
#5
We are running a $50 ECS Gift card right now on these and of course in the contiguous USA free shipping. EuroSport Tuning is one of our distributors in Canada if you want go through them. Just tell them you want some ECS Stuff.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-suspension-techniques-parts/st-x-performance-coilover-system-fixed-damping-90250/90250~st50/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-suspension-techniques-parts/st-x-performance-coilover-system-fixed-damping-90250/90250~st50/
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#7
Suble clunk
Thank you
Last edited by drea-min; 06-25-2018 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Mispelled
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#8
Yep, i had mine clunk and 9 times out of 10 it was the outer tie rod. Both on my R56 and my R52. Just the nature of the MINI suspension.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-tie-rod.html
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#9
Interestestonf re: tie rod.
So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.
When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.
When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?
I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?
Feedback would be appreciated.
So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.
When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.
When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?
I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?
Feedback would be appreciated.
#10
Tie rod
Interestestonf re: tie rod.
So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.
When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.
When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?
I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?
Feedback would be appreciated.
So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.
When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.
When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?
I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?
Feedback would be appreciated.
Last edited by drea-min; 06-26-2018 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Mispelled
#11
Aball joint
Interestestonf re: tie rod.
So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.
When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.
When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?
I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?
Feedback would be appreciated.
So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.
When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.
When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?
I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?
Feedback would be appreciated.
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