I have not yet reveived my owners manual so I thought I would ask here. My drivers side, inside door latch won't work. I have to lower my window and open the door from the outside. Could someone tell me how to remove the door panel? Once I'm in I assume it is just a latch - if not, please let me know that as well. Thank you in advance for your help.
-Stacy

 

I had the same thing happen to me...

First question- are you close to a dealer &/or under warranty?
If so take it to them... it is kind fo tight working the cable back in to position.. I think service tech could do this in about 30 mins...

If not..
There are 4 torx screw that need to be removed first.. 3 of them can be seen in the "holes" in the door handle cross bar.. The last one is under the reflector near the door lock..
Next you want to remove the trim ring around the speaker & door latch.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...83&hg=51&fg=50
This graphic might help...

Once those are removed, you need to "pop" the trim pannel off. The easiest way I found to do this is use two wide (4-6") putty knifes (one plastic & one metal). Push he plastic one in first at the lower edge of the pannel then slide the metal one ontop of the plastic one (this prevents scratching the paint :-) . Then pry up the metal putty knife until you hear a "POP" - that is the plastic retaining clips coming out of the door. Most of the time these clips are re-useable. Keep working the clips out in this way.. Until you get to the top edge...

At the top edge the clips are metal and pull straight out..

This is the door latch assembly that is inside the door..
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...88&hg=41&fg=40

The cable that could be disconnected is labeld as #10. It needs to be hooked into part #4..

The easiest way to get it connected right ... remove the other interior door pannel on with the lath that is working and compare the cable routing.. Then make the other door match.

Hope that helps - a little
Good luck..

 

Wow - thank you so much. This is so descriptive. I can't wait to get home to work on this! I'll let you know how it goes.
-Stacy

 

Nice write up, now I think I have the motivation to take my door apart to try to fix mine.

 

It's not a tough job, Jeremy.
For removing the panel, I began using a 'tape wrapped screwdriver' as recommended. Having done it several times now, I just put my fingers under the bottom edge of the door and give a sharp tug (after removing the screws of course!)

 

Someone asked this question on the MMMC site so I copied my response and added it here. Pretty easy but there are a few tricks that will make your life easier. BTW, I never used a putty knife to wedge and pry. I used a plastic wedge the first time and figured out that with the method described I didn't need it. Also all fasteners were in left intact. And i've had them off a few times.

Ah an '03. I just removed my door panels while adding ambient lighting etc. Pretty easy BUT there are a few "tricks" that will make it all go faster and lessen the risk of damage.

1. Don't forget the screw underneath the reflector. The one located on the he upper rear portion of the door panel. If your car is an 03' ( or I presume without the door lighting as on the later cars) you will have this. So when you remove the TORX screws from the "armrest" handle area don't forget the forth one under the reflector. Should be obvious but not the screws are the same length. make note and refit as removed.

2. Make sure before you pull the door panel off the door locks are DOWN. This will lesson the risk of you warping the "wire" that leads to the actuator. Once off you'll see that nothing else locates the "wire" but the opening of the door panel. With it down you will easily skim over it when you pull on the panel.

3. Set the window down. Pull from the top. Note the nice section of door panel that sticks up above the belt line just rearward of the A-pillar. Grab hold here and place your hand on the rear of the panel to "catch it" when you pull. Or if you want hold on the handle by the arm rest. In anycase it will sound like something is breaking with a nice medium to loud noise. And it may just release and fly off or just simply "pop" off and drop. (hence why you may want to hold the door via handle while pulling so it won't hit the floor). This will depend on your "technique" as in how much force you use, when you realize things are moving and when you release said force. If your noticing you can simply pull until the upperclips release then work the lower part of the door until the plastic release.

4. Once off you have easy access to the speaker. Also the door/tweeter escutcheon may be loose or popped of. Depends. No big deal but place by the side. It's just easier not to damage it that way. (I have an HK though so I didn't want to damage mine. HK is aluminum {or a really nice finish}with metal mesh)

5. Place back on with door lock actuated UP. This way you line up the door panel and won't have to fish for the "button". Once you slip it over you can easily see to line up the metal clips which reside along the top of the door panel with the slots in the door. Line them up and using the side of you hand gently but firmly "bump" along the surfaces until all are in place. Check on door lock operation to see if your "button" is going up and down smoothly, fit you door/tweeter trim piece back and place the appropriate screws back in place. Make sure your window was down.

Check for operation and your good to go.

You'll need minimal tools but a TORX (forgot the size) is mandatory. A really small screwdriver or pick tool for the reflector. a drop cloth on the ground to protect your panel if it flies of at the speed of sound. A Phillips for the speaker.

Hope this helps!

-C

 

The panel is off and the cable was not attched to the lock assembly. I believe I found where the outer part of the cable should lay BUT where does the inner cable hook to? I can't seem to find the peg that the slot fits over. It's pretty hard to see what your doing back in there and was thinking of loosening the lock and sliding it out a bit. I do have the door latch/ tweeter disconnected and may have an answer to make sure it don't jump out in the future, but the inner cable is starting to give me fits, not to mention a neck pain.
Stacy

 

It requires more work... but take the other door panel off to see how the cable is routed...

 

other panel gets pulled to check how it's supposed to be. I'll report back but to add to the search funtion the Torx driver for the door panels is a # 30. Thanks for all the input so far

 

BBCooper...you're a walking MINI manual! Thanks!

 

I had to remove the other door panel to figure out the cable attachment method. While there I discovered that the lock box has a plastic hinged door for access to connect the inside release cable. The door is about 1" x 1-1/4" and hinges down. After getting the inner cable reconnected and the special crimped on outter cable end placed back into it's slot it worked. It was then that I realized that a cable clip had been broken, which must have caused the problem in the first place. It is the clip that is on the inside right next to the door latch grommet. Without the clip the window guide rail hits the cable and that is what popped the cable out in the first place. Since I didn't have a clip a tie wrap through, around the cable, and back out the clip hole held it in the right place. As extra insurance I added some "right stuff" by Permatex to the outter cable end where it sits into the lock box. All in all a pain of a job but I could do it whole lot faster next time. As a side note, In the passenger door laying in the bottom I found a 6mm x 1.0 flanged nut painted the same blue as the mini and I also found a twetter??? That panel has never been off since new and now I know where that rattle was that I always heard. I wish I had found a roll of 50s but will settle for a spare speaker I'll write soon about my latest tire problems and how TR shows a certain tire as being a run flat and really isn't, or is it?
Stacy and the old man

 

Thank you for all the great replies. I have been searching for solutions to this problem on every forum out there. Thanks guys! Hopefully now I can fix that door!